Aftermarket brake booster for my Sportsroof (manual transmission)

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After extensive searching, googling, researching I am hoping to get some feedback on retrofitting my Mustang with an aftermarket vacuum or hydroboost power brake booster. I have encountered a couple but cannot remember specifically which listed theirs for ”automatic transmission only”. Is there conflict with clutch linkage pushrod? I understand the booster mounts to firewall differently but I didn’t think the clutch pushrod was that close. Or perhaps it’s the other linkage thingy for the ignition safety device? Any expert words of wisdom would be humbly appreciated. Thanks all😀 B95D4196-1AFB-4D5E-A59F-A934DA42B966.jpeg B95D4196-1AFB-4D5E-A59F-A934DA42B966.jpeg
 
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What exactly do you have now? manual or auto trans. Did it have only manual brakes before, disc or drum ( I assume drum)
If a manual trans, the brake pedal will need to be modified by adding a push pin 2" lower. That is not too hard to do, pins can be bought. When I did mine, I bought a clutch bearing kit from Mustang Steve so I could improve clutch action at the same time I was doing the brake booster fit. I bought the pin at the same time. I'm not going into all that right now, but much has been posted on the subject and you should find some of that in "search".
On my car, I have the shock tower braces and I found the 8" Bendix style would not work due to interference, so I had to get a reman 11" original style booster, which are hard to get now. There are other more modern alternative brands out the now and I'm sure others will chime in.

Oops, I missed it. Your intro says manual trans, my bad.
 
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Hemikiller

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You can use an OE booster, it doesn't hit anything. Ford sold power brake retrofit kits over the counter.

IMO, get an OE booster, power brake pedal and brake light switch. You can drill the threaded bosses in the firewall to allow the booster studs to pass through. The 71-73 pedal is on it's own pivot shaft, so one clip and it comes right out.
 
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Thanks Hemikiller and Stanglover for quick replies. I’m sorry I didn’t give all important information. My Sportsroof has: 302 2V 3spd manual, drum brakes (manual). I have been been doing a great deal of research and understand differences with pedals, firewall mounting, proportioning etc. I am just trying to make sure I have all things covered. I have been looking at “Leeds” and “MP” and others like that as aftermarket options. I have seen others posts and I remember one even had good images of firewall. (POL) performance online was one that had asterisk about manual clutch linkage (for automatic only)
 
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My all time favorite vehicle is our 1969 Shelby GT500
I have decided when I need to get a brake booster for any of our 73 Mustangs or 69 Shelby GT500, I will turn to WCCC to get their recommendation. The following video will help explain why:

 
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Currently equipped with 351C 4V 4BM, .060 over, roller cam, Sanderson block huggers, -AC
They took my original Bendix and updated it with the '73 diaphragm kit so I would recommend that for when you find a core to send in. They turned it around in 2 weeks but that was right before the china virus hit. I found a "spare" on ebay last summer for $50 to turn in if I ever need to replace the new rebuilt one so they are out there.
 
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1972 Mustang convertible, 351C 2V with FMX (#'s matching)
Currently equipped with 351C 4V 4BM, .060 over, roller cam, Sanderson block huggers, -AC
Also my Bendix model is a 9501 so I'm not sure what Don if you catch him, or (I believe Bob) will tell you but regardless will hook you up correctly.
They took my original Bendix and updated it with the '73 diaphragm kit so I would recommend that for when you find a core to send in. They turned it around in 2 weeks but that was right before the china virus hit. I found a "spare" on ebay last summer for $50 to turn in if I ever need to replace the new rebuilt one so they are out there.
re
 
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