Anyone convert to manual brakes?

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As I kept modifying my engine for drag racing I am at a point where I dont have enough vaccum for power brakes, about 5-7 inches. I thought of adding a reservoir but I dont think it will work anyways.

I also saw one power brake swap using the power steering pump to power it but it looked complicated.

Anyone try a good manual brake master cylinder with good results. I was thinking of converting the rear to discs and maybe upgrading the front dics and then getting like a Wilwood brand master cylinder and adjustable prop valve.

Just trying to plan out the "stopping" side of the project since I have only concentrated on the "go" portion of it.

 
Thats what I'm going to be doing with mine. It will have four wheel manual disc. I have yet to buy my master cylinder so keep me posted on what you find and I will do the same. :dodgy:

 
Here is a site I found when I was doing my brakes. Mine came manual and I wanted to keep them that way but with a little more stopping power. And when I was choosing the cam I didn't want to be limited by the vacuum necessary for power brakes so manual was the way to go. It is hotrodsusa.com then click on Tech, then Brake Article.

He explains the parts, what different sizes do what, volumes, pressure needed and lost when not using a power unit, pedal choices, etc. Very informative. Hope it helps.

 
What about an external vacuum pump, they runoff the battery and provide all the vacuum you need for accessories.

 
What about an external vacuum pump, they runoff the battery and provide all the vacuum you need for accessories.
I looked at that option also but for me did not look like the way I wanted to go. But that is a very viable option.

 
I thought the vaccum pump may be too loud, and current thirsty.

I already have electric fans and Elec fuel pump.

I still have AC in the car and it works fine with the litle bit of vaccum that I have.

Thanks for the link, I will check those out. In the meantime dont get in front of me I cant stop......

 
Roy,

Thank you for the inquiry and use of Wilwood Disc Brakes. For manual brakes, the 6:1 pedal ratio is what we recommend as a minimum. You have two options for master cylinders, if you like a good pedal modulation (travel), you are a smaller person, and the car is mostly street, the 7/8" bore Aluminum tandem master cylinder will be a good choice. This will provide you with about 1000 psi of pressure at the calipers with 100 pounds of leg effort.

http://www.wilwood.com/PartNoSearch.aspx?itemno=9439

A 1 inch bore is also usable. This will stiffen up the pedal, making about 800 psi under the same effort. Myself being a bigger guy prefers a stiffer pedal. Also the 1 inch bore is the more popular choice for drag racing.

http://www.wilwood.com/PartNoSearch.aspx?itemno=8555

You may be able to use our 260-8419 or 260-11179 proportioning valves.

http://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch.aspx?itemno=8419

http://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch.aspx?itemno=11179

Regards,

MJ - Wilwood

 
thanks for posting the reply, it still looks like we would have to find a mounting bracket and a manual brake pushrod and possibly a manual brake pedal from a donor car
Looking at summit, the master cylinder had the pushrod with it and I'm not sure if there is a difference in the petal. My car was a manual brake car from the factory. Will do some more homework on this.

 
thanks for posting the reply, it still looks like we would have to find a mounting bracket and a manual brake pushrod and possibly a manual brake pedal from a donor car
Looking at summit, the master cylinder had the pushrod with it and I'm not sure if there is a difference in the petal. My car was a manual brake car from the factory. Will do some more homework on this.
Hello TN, did you ever get the manual brake sorted out? I think on mine if I remove the booster I would have to get a different pushrod (longer) or a different pedal.

 
thanks for posting the reply, it still looks like we would have to find a mounting bracket and a manual brake pushrod and possibly a manual brake pedal from a donor car
Looking at summit, the master cylinder had the pushrod with it and I'm not sure if there is a difference in the petal. My car was a manual brake car from the factory. Will do some more homework on this.
Hello TN, did you ever get the manual brake sorted out? I think on mine if I remove the booster I would have to get a different pushrod (longer) or a different pedal.

No not yet still stuck on the other end right now with the rear end. Hopefully things are starting to roll again. will keep you posted.
 
As I kept modifying my engine for drag racing I am at a point where I dont have enough vaccum for power brakes, about 5-7 inches. I thought of adding a reservoir but I dont think it will work anyways.

I also saw one power brake swap using the power steering pump to power it but it looked complicated.

Anyone try a good manual brake master cylinder with good results. I was thinking of converting the rear to discs and maybe upgrading the front dics and then getting like a Wilwood brand master cylinder and adjustable prop valve.

Just trying to plan out the "stopping" side of the project since I have only concentrated on the "go" portion of it.
Heres the system I'm doing on my car (car came with all manual drum from the factory)

http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-11.25-Front-Disk-Brake-Kit-pr-23510.html

Going with their frt end coil over conversion too.

Or you could check here

http://www.discbrakeswap.com/

Scott

 
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