Body work/paint job

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Omie01

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Can anybody give me an idea of what some body work and paint w/stripes may cost me. I will probably need a new taillight panel and rear quarter skins, and trunk drop down panels installed. Not to mention my doors need some TLC. I have no idea what today's body work rates are, and plan on a fairly high grade paint. Just looking for ball park figures, 10k? 30k? I already have $15,000 into this car, and I know its not worth more than $20-$25,000 at this point so I don't want to spend too much more than the car is worth for all the work it may need. Its so hard to be a perfectionist when you own these things because you ALWAYS know what else your car NEEDS!!! Lol!!

 

Elizabeth73

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I assume you are keeping the car for your own use and not flipping it. The amount of money that you put into these old cars will always be more than what it is worth, but thats just part of owning them.

As for body work costs, I know when a woman hit my car the shop got about $7,000 to fix it from the insurance. They did body work on my whole car, not just where it was hit, but I also suspect that my paint is average quality.

I think an accurate estimation would be hard because it varies on your location and the shops themselves. I would bring your car to the shop and have them give you a rough estimate. It is usually more than they say because they will probably find something else that needs fixing.

-Elizabeth

 

Mister 4x4

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I was fortunate in being able to replace the sheet metal myself, but the body work following was out of my range (I've discovered I don't have the patience to turn a half-gallon of filler into sanded dust for a small number of filled-in divots).

Mine went from this:

hood1.jpg

To this:

painted2.jpg

attachment.php


In just 8 weeks and $5500 later.

 

Omie01

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I was figuring 12-15k as well, I know I need about $700 worth of sheet metal, and as I said, my doors will need some TLC, no rust as far as I can tell in doors, but hinges could be better, and the windows rattle when rolled down. I think the PO skipped a few steps re-assembling doors. Lots of tedious work. I did the floor pans and battery apron, but that stuff hides well. Thanks for the tip on the insurance shops, we have a LOT of those up here where the winters are LONG!!!! Lots of accidents! I guess some of my cruising this year will be for estimates!!

 
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I am myself getting back into working on my own paint work. I have a friend that does high end restorations on all types, Ford, Chevy, Pontiac etc. I was shocked when he told me what the materials prices have risen to. He told me that right now it cost him from $3,500 to $4,000 for the materials to do one car. That is a ground up restoration not just paint the body. It would include all prep materials, thinner, filler, sand paper, sealer, primer, top coats and interior and under hood paint.

If you do the work yourself you have to be careful that you do not violate the EPA rules and get in hot water over that. The health department comes to his shop site each year and takes samples of the ground to make sure he is not dumping thinner and such. He has to pay a licensed waste management to take any waste off site. I am building a garage and the word paint cannot be used or I will be in hot water. Complete different set of rules.

It is sad what the wealth have done to the old car hobby. By that I mean that when I was growing up us working on the old cars was looked down at and only the poor did that. Then it became fashionable to have your "Muscle Car" and the prices went through the roof. In 1974 you could go to the Ford dealer and purchase ever outside body panel on a 65 Mustang vert for $700.00. Some single pieces cost more than that NOS today.

We are all crazy to put what we do into these cars but it has been in my blood and always will be.

Hope you have an understanding wife, lol.

David

 
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Mustang

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I have a 1973 Mustang Coupe that I am fixing up.
The only way you wont be losing money is if you do all yourself. A good paintjob, including body work will be up of 10,00$

 
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I was figuring 12-15k as well, I know I need about $700 worth of sheet metal, and as I said, my doors will need some TLC, no rust as far as I can tell in doors, but hinges could be better, and the windows rattle when rolled down. I think the PO skipped a few steps re-assembling doors. Lots of tedious work. I did the floor pans and battery apron, but that stuff hides well. Thanks for the tip on the insurance shops, we have a LOT of those up here where the winters are LONG!!!! Lots of accidents! I guess some of my cruising this year will be for estimates!!
You can save some money if you do some of the work yourself. detrim, strip, pannel aaligment.

 

Mister 4x4

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Involvement with 'the body work' will be subjective, of course. The painter may or may not need to follow-up your body work with some adjusting or tweaking of their own. They also may (or may not) need to remove components to ensure everything gets painted.

For that reason, I took my car to the painter unassembled. They needed to repair the doors and a few thin spots on the hood, along with the seams where the quarter panel skins joined the original sheet metal (there's some filler of course, but they worked the metal and got it a lot closer than I could).

Sadly, the body guy didn't get everything 100% lined up as well as it was beforehand, and as a result there are a few minor things I've noticed that most people generally miss, and I have just chalked up to 'added character.' I'm just really happy that the things I did to it turned out as well as they did... although I'm sure a professional with an interest in our cars would probably spot the issues and wonder, "what happened there?"

Based on my experience, I would advise anybody to pick an established body shop (one that's not going to be at risk to close up shop while your car is there because the body guy smokes dope), and to 'be involved' as much as possible while the car is in their care. Go to the shop, inspect their work as it progresses, and don't be afraid to point out potential issues along the way... it's easier to correct them before the paint goes down, after all.

Get an estimate... insist on it, with the understanding that the price may have to go up if more work and/or materials are required - and make sure the shop "runs it by you first" before authorizing more work that will require more money.

Have an inventory of the items you take to them - otherwise, you may be dazzled by the awesome paint job when you pick it up, and leave while forgetting to take something important (but not outwardly visible) with you.

Overall, I'm happy with mine, and I don't hate my painter or anything - but I'm sure at some point down the road it'll need another paint job, and I already have a list of things that will need attention for the next go-around. ;)

I know it's probably not exactly the information you're looking for, but I think it'll be helpful for when it's time to pick your painter.

 

Qcode351mach

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A good quality BASE "show car" paint job runs around 10k-12k these days with approximately 2000-4000 of that money going towards materials IF your using name brand high end finishes such as sikkins- glasurit-ppg etc.

Body work, panel alignment, panel replacement, removing weather strips, glass then assembly etc add to the cost as does extras like a glamour finish where you apply your clear then wet sand the entire car apply more clear...It really depends what level & how much you want to spend

 

Paul of MO

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I am old but I am trying to stay up to date much to the amusement of others.

Painted many cars and have been given good reviews on the final results.

Doing the work myself - using my own shop - still able to get and legally use non water based old school paint - it still looks like 3 grand to paint my next car - yikes!

There is a local sign company that wraps commercial vehicles and is gratefully allowing me to observe and learn if I buy the beer.

My total cost to create a factory correct tu-tone paint scheme will be no more than 800.00

He has high quality material that is as deep, shiny, and luxurious as any available paint and the body prep work is much less involved.

The below car is wrapped. WOW!

fk4m77.jpg


I do not want to do anything more than recreate the factory paint on our 73 convert.

Should be fun!

Paul of Mo

 
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Paul, that looks really good in the photo, I assume based on your comments it also looks very nice in person. When investigating wraps did you get an idea of the life of the wrap under normal use and if stored indoors if that life is extended?

 

72MustangSprint

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wrap looks nice in the pic. I have thought about having my car wrapped but don't know how good the USA badge would look.

 

Paul of MO

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What I have seen in the real world is that cars using the best (priciest) 3M material look absolutely stunning.

I have been told it has a max 10 year daily driving life expectancy and can be washed like any other paint job.

The prep work is very straight forward and much less involved than getting ready to apply paint - basically just blocking and body sanding. Wave free and smooth is the goal.

We feel that it should last almost indefinitely on a garaged and lightly driven car. The shop owner likes the idea of recreating a factory paint scheme as everyone else seems to go over the top.

He does however have material that looks exactly like distressed copper - that would be very cool. (must resist)

- Paul

 
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