Build Plans for 73 Mach 1, input requested

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wdills

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I am planning to build this car to be my daily driver. I am tired of the new cars that I can't work on. I like a lot of the convenience items found in a new car so I am adding those that can be purchased in the aftermarket.

I would like to hear feedback (good or bad) from those that have used the products I am planning on and if you have used something similar with good results, tell me about the alternative.

I will list things in small (logical to me) groupings to make this list easier to read.

Steering & Front Suspension

Rod & Custom, RC-107, front suspension (coil over, power rack and pinion, disc brakes)

Flaming River, FR20006, tilt steering column

Flaming River, FR20160AD, Cascade Steering Wheel

Rear Suspension and Differential

Total Control Products, 5804-M30, rear suspension (4 link, coil overs)

Rear end rebuild with 3.50 gear, TruTrac limited slip

Global West, 911, subframe connectors

Brakes

Rod & Custom, RC-131, rear disc brake conversion with E-brake

Rod & Custom, RC-138, offset booster / master cylinder / proportioning valve

Wheels & Tires

Legendary Wheel, GT9 wheel, 17x7, 4.25 BS

Michelin Defender 215/55R17

Fuel System

MSD Atomic EFI,  2900, self tuning master kit with inline fuel pump

MSD Atomic, 2922, return fuel line kit

Ignition System

MSD, 62.1, 6A ignition control box

MSD, 8577, Distributor

MSD, 84211, adjustable rotor

MSD, 8222, Blaster 2 coil

Cooling System

BeCool, 82087, cooling module (radiator, electric fans, relays, temp sensor)

Four Seasons, 84876, thermostat housing with 2 temp sender fittings (78 Lincoln Cont 400)

Gates, 20704, Upper Rad hose (78 Lincolon Cont)

Engine

Rebuilt 351C-2V to stock 1970 specs (250 Hp, 355 lb-ft)

Edelbrock, 2750, dual plane intake

Comp Cams, CL32-411-8, roller cam kit (260HR)

Rod and Custom, RC-166, double hump oil pan to clear new front suspension

Stock water pump with temp sender fitting

Stock power steering pump

Power Masters, 47757, 3G alternator with plug

Exhaust

Stock exhaust manifolds with Jet-Hot coating

2.25" exhaust system with H pipe

Quietest mufflers I can get

Transmission

Monster AODE Trans, 450Hp, factory stall torque converter, factory shift firmness, 11-1/4" tail housing, 2 bolt starter

Transmission Center, 74XXX, fill tube / dip stick

Monster engine block plate

Ron Morris, 7121, AOD corssmember

MSD Atomic, 2760, Transmission controller

MSD Atomic, 2939, TPS (throttle position sensor) module

MSD Atomic, 2772, Transmission Harness

Wiring

American Auto Wire, 510662, complete wiring harness that I will modify as needed

Instrumentation / Control

Dakota Digital, VHX-71F-MUS-K-W, instrument cluster

Dakota Digital, GSS-2000, gear shift position indicator

Dakota Digital, CRS-3000-1, Cruise Control

Revolution Electronics, Intermittent wiper module

Blind Spot Detection system (recommendations welcome)

Gentex, ADVGEN20A, auto dimming mirror

Autoloc, GT2000, power lock actuators

Digital Guard Dawg, ikey, pushbutton start with keyless entry

Pioneer stero / navigation system with back-up camera

SFAS11x, shark fin antenna with AM, FM, GPS, XM

Air Conditioner

Classic Auto Air, complete kit for 73

Interior

Rostra, lumbar support with electric pump for original seats if I keep them. Suggestions welcome on modern power seats people have installed and like.

Quite Ride Solutions, MUST 7173-FBAK, complete insulation kit

Quite Ride Solutions, MUST 7173-AC, Firewall insulator

 

73pony

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Just a few comments.

Wow, that is going to be spendy.

Not sure the power rack & pinion set up is necessary, have you driven a 71-73 with good stock suspension? (IE Seems like a lot of money for a minimal benefit) They handle quite well. Also on that note I do not believe the stock PS pump will work well with this set up.

Also you start out with the statement that you are doing this because you can't work on newer cars, but then are adding all kinds of complicated electronics, somewhat defeats the purpose if you ask me.

Don't get me wrong should be a nice car when done until one or multiple of the aftermarket systems fail or start having problems and you end up in the same boat as with a new car and no warranty.

While I don't use my car as a daily driver I followed the KISS (keep it simple stupid) when modifying the car and I would not be afraid to take it across country at any time or drive it daily.

Good luck with the project what ever direction you decide to go.

 
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Hey if it ain’t broke don’t fix it....lol. Just kidding, but have to agree with Jason. I think your trying to replace way to much stuff that doesn’t need to be. Plus some of the wiring you are talking about, well I have never heard of.

A roller cam for a 250 hp motor? I think you may have your information wrong.?

Anyway this is the place to get some good info, and learn what can and can’t be done. Great ideas and good luck with your build!

 

Mister 4x4

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I've done kind of the same thing with mine, albeit a slightly different direction.  Mine was an absolute mess when I got it, and it was just an H-Code (meaning, not rare or particularly valuable) so I decided to have my fun with it.  I've done mostly performance and creature comfort mods, but stuck with period-correct cosmetic mods to keep up the old school look.

I replaced the suspension with stock replacement components, but added a rear sway bar, refurbished the Lakewood 'slapper' traction bars that came with the car, and went with a staggered set of Cragar S/Ss for the old school look (245/60R15 Cooper Cobras on 15x8s up front, and 295/50R15s on 15x10s w/custom backspacing out back).  I am planning on replacing the stock springs and shocks up front with some TCP bolt-on coil-overs, however, to drop the nose about an inch.  Everything's new, and it all handles just fine for the little bit of actual driving I do with the car (mostly to car shows and cruise-ins on weekends now and then).

I did install a set of Global West subframe connectors on mine as well.  A little added insurance policy, since I literally cut my car in half replacing the rusted out front clip, as well as I love how solid the classis feels.

I warmed up the engine with tons of Edelbrock and CompCams go-fast goodies, including an Edelbrock E-Street EFI system (I still have yet to install it, however).  Exhaust consists of some Hooker ceramic-coated Competition Headers, followed by a Pypes 2.5" stainless exhaust with X-pipe and Pypes Street Pro mufflers.

Make sure you get a coolant overflow system of some sort - I just have a nice black plastic Moroso bottle tucked in behind the drive side headlight bucket, but there are some really nice billet systems to add some under-hood bling if you like.

To avoid having to chop-up the Ram Air air cleaner, I went with a Duraspark Blue Grommet box and distributor.  Works just fine and almost looks factory.

Get a Mr. Gasket fuel pump block-off plate and go with a nice Holley inline electric fuel pump as the 'lift pump' for your EFI system.

For daily driver-ability, you might consider some kind of overdrive.  I swapped the FMX for an AOD (it was free from a friend), but others have done 4R70W swaps, as well as Gear Vendors makes a good product as well.

Inside I used RAAMat sound deadening/insulting products.  Pretty much the same as Dynamat, but WAY cheaper.  TMI Products Sport Seat upholstery replaced the old rotten stuff, and looks pretty much stock.  ACC Mach 1 Cut-Pile carpet is much nicer than the old school factory 'loop-style' carpet, in my opinion.  I just wish I would've gotten the non-Mach 1 version, since the Lloyd's plush matts (Mach 1 embroidery) barely cover the vinyl foot pads.

Tunes are handled by a Retrosound Model 2 (AM/FM/BT/USB/iPod/Hands Free Phone) running through Retrosound 4x6s in the doors, and 6x9s in the package tray.  I also have a set of MTX 10" Terminator subs in a custom box directly under the 6x9s in the trunk powered by an MTX 400watt Terminator amp.  To get rid of my antenna, I went with a Retrosound hidden antenna module zip-tied underneath the center dash speaker opening and I had the antenna hole in the front fender filled before it was painted.  No pesky antenna sticking up anywhere.

HVAC for mine is a Classic Auto Air system.  If you don't already have a factory A/C system, you'll want to score a set of factory idler pulley brackets, a 3-groove crank pulley, and a Sanden compressor adapter from Original Air Group (the replacement side of Classic Auto Air), since the CAA HVAC doesn't have provisions for an idler pulley in the box.  I asked Tech Support about it, and they said to simply get a longer belt and run it with the power steering circuit.  Yeah... not gonna do that.  It's not a good idea to run a 100+ inch V-belt in a 4-pulley circuit.  V-belts prefer to be shorter and only have 3 pulleys on their circuits.  If you decide to go with a serpentine belt set-up, then don't worry about it.  Oh Yeah - don't lose the little red 'set-up clippy thing' that comes with the CAA control module.  You'll need it to calibrate the controls (I still haven't gotten mine right yet, since I lost the clippy thing somewhere when I moved the car from the shop to my garage).

I also have some Autoloc products for the alarm/keyless entry, power locks, and power windows.  The universal power window adapters are junk, if you decide to go with a universal power window adapter system, get the SPALs... much better.  The power locks are kinda 'meh.'  They're either not adjusted properly, or one or both of the motors is/are already shot, since they don't seem to be working all that great (sometimes yes, and sometimes no).  The alarm/keyless entry is still in the box because I was in a hurry to finish up the car cosmetically for a car show, and didn't have time to install the alarm/keyless entry system.  I'll get back to it one of these days.

I also have a Pyle Audio back-up camera with a nice clip-on style monitor (rectangle monitor the same size as the rear view mirror, but clips onto the rear view mirror) and the jury's still out on it.  I'm not sure if the control module, monitor, or camera have decided to quit working, since now I seem to only have TV static and/or blue screen on the monitor when I plug it in.  I need to troubleshoot it and make sure I didn't rub a wire open and short it out or something.

Something to consider when you place the camera.  If you get one of those license plate frame mounted cameras, you will likely blind it with the license plate light when you use it at night.  I picked up some LED license plate fasteners from Twisted Throttle.com to handle LP light duties - they're mounted away from the license plate frame camera, are nice and bright, and don't blind the camera in the dark with the lights on.  If you stick with the stock LP lights, you might consider getting an electric trunk popper and replace the trunk key lock with the back-up camera - that's really the best vantage point for the camera anyway... I might wind up doing that eventually as well.

For lighting, I've done a few different things.  I replaced all of the 'peanut' bulbs in the instrument cluster with LEDs - MUCH better.  Make sure to pull the blue diffusers if you decide to stick with the stock instrumentation.  I swapped my factory clock for an RCCI Tachometer conversion kit, which is absolutely awesome.  I just received another RCCI cool product, which is a replacement console clock with an alternate movement (digital), which I need to finish getting installed one of these weekends ASAP.  Other members have had great luck with their Dakota Digital products, however... I think you'll be happy with those.

I also picked up a headlight relay kit from CJ Pony Parts.  That basically wires up your headlights directly to battery power (through a circuit breaker, of course) for brighter lights, but also won't overtax the wiring going through the headlight switch itself (not one of Ford's better ideas back then).  While you're at it, pick up a set of factory-looking H4 lights and some G.E. Silver Star H4 bulbs - you'll light up the world with that set-up (just make sure to aim them, too).

Another thing I picked up was one of the Scott Drake intermittent wiper switches.  It's pretty awesome and works well, even though I've never had to use it since I don't drive in the rain.

I think that might be just about it, as far as the cool restomod things I've done to mine.  I'll chime back in a bit later if I think of something else.

Hope that helps!

 

RCH71

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If you are not going to race it. Stock suspension is not bad at all. There are other things that you can do to improve handling. 

·        Subframes (already on your list)

·        Montecarlo bar maybe

·        Adjustable strut rods (eliminating the bushings)

·        17 wheels (already on your list)

The stock discs are good. Just use good brake pads and might upgrade the brake hoses to stainless braided hoses. Rear drums do the job.

For a daily EFI is a good choice. 3G alternator upgrade is a must for all your other upgrades. If you are going with MSD ignition box better go with the 6AL and have a rev limiter as a safety net.

A/C is a must for a daily.

Controls/controls…. that Is more of a personal choice!

Don’t have any suggestions for seats…but go as comfortable as you can and use the best sound deadening you can find!

 
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Unless you have done this several times before I see a failed project in the making. Too much of a good thing can end a project before it begins.

Why not just go buy an done well complete car for half what you are talking about investing and be driving it tomorrow?

 

Mister 4x4

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No worries, J!  You know how I like to talk about my old POS.  lollerz

I re-read wdills' list and would recommend sticking with the factory wiring harness for the overall operation of the car's systems, but get an add-on auxiliary wiring system for the aftermarket add-ons he's planning.  That way, you're not cutting into any of the original wiring, and if there's an electrical issue, it's easier to trace out.  Completely rewiring a car is no easy task, and I haven't found an aftermarket wiring system for our cars yet that's as complete, or would be as inexpensive as having Midlife run through the whole harness to fix whatever might be out of sorts, then add the new circuits as necessary.

That's pretty much what I did with mine (I cleaned up and traced everything out on my original harness, then replaced the 4 light sockets that were melted (3 gauge panel dash lights and under-dash courtesy lamps), then klooged together my own auxiliary wiring system for the aftermarket add-ons.  Painless Wiring 'only' wanted $300 for a single 6-circuit universal set-up, but I have 12 circuits (6 'always hot' and 6 'keyed power') for less than $100 (if you count all the spools of wire I bought along with the split-loom, heat shrink tubing, and new soldering iron).  It doesn't have to be name-brand and/or expensive to work well, after all.

Sorry I missed the part about the AODE transmission. Good call, but be advised that the Ron Morris cross member may or may not fit how it should.  Mine didn't, so I simply modified the factory FMX transmission cross member to clear the AOD's larger valve body & pan.

Also, if not interested in reupholstering your own seats, TMI Products has some turn-key seats that look pretty awesome.  I don't know if they offer a set of their new touring class seat frames with some vintage upholstery, but it wouldn't hurt to ask.  I'm sure calling them directly could get a guy the exact seats he's looking for.  For instance, when my original seat frames with the TMI Sport Seat upholstery wears out (I'm expecting the frames to give up someday), I'd call and ask about getting a set of Mach 1 style upholstery with the touring series seats... if having stock-looking seats is part of the plan, that is.

Let us know about the Flaming River steering column (which can also be had with push-button start) - I'm interested in either one of those or an Ididit column myself.  There's a thread somewhere on this site about a guy who adapted an FR Universal column to his '71-'73 autocross car, with part numbers listed, but he never followed-up on how it worked out.

Kevin (turtle5353) also swapped in an Explorer 8.8 axle that has 3.73 gears and factory rear discs & e-brake, which I'm sure will be less expensive than even a bolt-on rear disc conversion kit - plus, you can simple pick up replacement pads and rotors from any auto parts store as needed (rather than go through the aftermarket company and/or research which components will work with the kit).  He also said the factory booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve works just fine with his set-up.

As far as the roller cam kit goes, I have a CompCams K32-421-8 in mine (274/274 @ .566") and you might as well go with some roller rockers while you're at it.  The CompCams Hi-Energy 17045-16 Die Cast Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms, and 7825-16 Hi-Energy push rods go well with the CompCamps roller cam kits.  The roller rockers will need 7/16" screw-in studs as well, and I found the Crane Cams 52655-16 kit for the roller rocker studs with guide plates worked just fine.  While you have the heads off and the block getting drilled and tapped for the lifter keeper 'spider' that comes with the roller cam kit, you might as well get some hardened valve seats installed.

Hope this helps as well.  It sounds like this is going to be a fun car!

 

Mister 4x4

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Unless you have done this several times before I see a failed project in the making. Too much of a good thing can end a project before it begins.

Why not just go buy an done well complete car for half what you are talking about investing and be driving it tomorrow?
Dude - why ya gotta be like that?  

Not every one has to be faithfully restored, ya know.  Maybe he's got a low-value, complete basket case like mine was, in which case you might as well build it how you like it since pretty much everything needs to be done anyway.  Maybe his dream is to have an awesome '73 as a daily driver, but he doesn't want to give up creature comforts and have a bullet-proof car as well.  That was my plan, but then I got a new truck shortly after I got mine shiny and running again, and now I don't want to subject it to overcrowded parking lots and San Angelo drivers.

It looks to me like he's got a solid plan, knows what he wants, and has picked out good components.  That's what I did as well, and I love my car... wouldn't change a thing about it (OK, maybe a couple of minor things, like not moving the seat platforms back when I replaced the floors, that is).

 

mach71351c

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Unless you have done this several times before I see a failed project in the making. Too much of a good thing can end a project before it begins.

Why not just go buy an done well complete car for half what you are talking about investing and be driving it tomorrow?
Dude - why ya gotta be like that?  

Not every one has to be faithfully restored, ya know.  Maybe he's got a low-value, complete basket case like mine was, in which case you might as well build it how you like it since pretty much everything needs to be done anyway.  Maybe his dream is to have an awesome '73 as a daily driver, but he doesn't want to give up creature comforts and have a bullet-proof car as well.  That was my plan, but then I got a new truck shortly after I got mine shiny and running again, and now I don't want to subject it to overcrowded parking lots and San Angelo drivers.

It looks to me like he's got a solid plan, knows what he wants, and has picked out good components.  That's what I did as well, and I love my car... wouldn't change a thing about it (OK, maybe a couple of minor things, like not moving the seat platforms back when I replaced the floors, that is).
 I'm about 12k into my build. A little more than half is body and paint. I expect to be around 25k when it's done and I will know every inch of it.

How many times have we seen guys buy cars that are " done " just to have it redone right a year or so later.

IMG_1724.JPG

 
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There is a lot of good information here. One thing i will add is that you will be spinning those 215 skinny tires very easily. With all the upgrades to the suspension you are talking about may as well get bigger tires to take advantage. You can fit 245s on front and 295s in back.

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Mister 4x4

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There is a lot of good information here. One thing i will add is that you will be spinning those 215 skinny tires very easily. With all the upgrades to the suspension you are talking about may as well get bigger tires to take advantage. You can fit 245s on front and 295s in back.

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True - I think I'd probably go with 235s, considering the 55-series sidewalls.  Don't really need all the extra handling goodies if you can't make it stick, after all. ;)

Also, with all the upgrades you are considering why not install coated headers in place of the stock manifold.

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It sounds like he's going for quiet and reliable.  Headers will add a little bit to the noise the mufflers have to quell.

 
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Unless you have done this several times before I see a failed project in the making. Too much of a good thing can end a project before it begins.

Why not just go buy an done well complete car for half what you are talking about investing and be driving it tomorrow?
Dude - why ya gotta be like that?  

Not every one has to be faithfully restored, ya know.  Maybe he's got a low-value, complete basket case like mine was, in which case you might as well build it how you like it since pretty much everything needs to be done anyway.  Maybe his dream is to have an awesome '73 as a daily driver, but he doesn't want to give up creature comforts and have a bullet-proof car as well.  That was my plan, but then I got a new truck shortly after I got mine shiny and running again, and now I don't want to subject it to overcrowded parking lots and San Angelo drivers.

It looks to me like he's got a solid plan, knows what he wants, and has picked out good components.  That's what I did as well, and I love my car... wouldn't change a thing about it (OK, maybe a couple of minor things, like not moving the seat platforms back when I replaced the floors, that is).
Why? Because last couple years I went and looked at probably 10 failed projects. Lots of great parts pilled up and car 1/3 to 1/2 done and they were burnt out. The 72 CJ Q vert I did buy had $16,000 in receipts and was just back to a rolling chassis. I was only person to even make him an offer in 9 months and I got the car and all the parts for $5,500. He had already built the engine and transmission. Why people do that is because the mechanic work is easy. The body and chassis take all the time.

One that was in Charlotte was a beautiful Grabber blue 72 mach 1 that was through paint and ready to go back together. He just got burnt out.

The last one was a 73 coupe in Atlanta. I think he sold it for $2,500 had new floors, trunk, cowl, tail light panel and ready for paint. He had all the interior and his health stopped him.

I see them on cl all the time.

A 66 coupe in Virginia was a disaster. He had installed floors and frame rails and you could put your fingers between the parts. It would not even make a good parts car. His garage had all the welders, lift and lots of room but he just did not have the skills to do the work right.

Not wanting to discourage anyone. You see me tell people glad to see them dig in and work on their cars.

All he has listed for work would take an experienced mechanic and body man probably 2,000 hours to do.

I just hate to see someone go crazy with the check book and get all those great parts and then get burnt out because they did not know what all was involved.

If he has family I am sure they will be all over him for not spending enough time with them.

I want everyone to learn and work on their cars but also know that what you see them do on TV in a few weeks is not realistic. They build half built half ass cars that will never last.

Like me I have all these projects and a crushed disc so I can do very little. I still restore some consoles and do some small stuff. I cannot sand on body or lift at all. One year ago all was good but not so now.

If he has done cars before and understands the scope then go for it. I just want him to be able to finish it and it be right.

 

Mister 4x4

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OK - I can respect your perspective.  Thanks for taking the time to explain.

You're right - there are plenty of half-assed, half-done cars out there to go around, and many for any/all of the reasons you mentioned, and most of them wind up back on CL with the sellers usually taking a loss.  But they all start out the same: with a goal and motivation.

I think I'm more excited to see this guy's project come to light because I was pretty much in the same boat as he is (don't know how bad his jump-off point is, though).  I ain't gonna lie - I learned a lot on my car, and there are some areas that I would love to get a do-over on (the cowl and some of the other replacement sheet metal areas come to mind, along with the 'did it myself upholstery') but I know my car's solid and will last for many years to come, so I'm OK with that.

I called you out because I remember I had a lot of people telling me it was too much for me to do, and I'd never get it done.  What they didn't realize is that I knew they were projecting their own lack of confidence and short-comings onto me without knowing how determined, adaptable, and skillful I really am - so I took their negativity and fed off it as motivation for my own purposes (to make them eat their words).

By the same token, my morale, confidence and motivation was through the roof when I got to know the members here.  I learned almost everything I needed to know about the things I needed to do and made a lot of great friends who became the biggest part of my cheerleading squad - which literally kept me in the game when things slowed down for me...

... and that's what I'm trying to reflect and pay-forward in my comments.  I've been down the same road he's looking to travel.  Now it's time to share our experience, knowledge, and positivity to help the guy along to success with his big pony project.

And yes, I might've actually just made up the word "positivity," since it has a red squiggly underneath in 'edit' mode.  rofl

 

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This post makes no sense to me. You're going to drop well north of $60k (if not $100k) on this build, all to have a daily you can work on? If you think new cars are a PITA to work on, wait 'til you have to troubleshoot all the randomly assembled bits on this build to work together properly. IMO, if you want a reliable, fun daily, go lease a new car and you'll never have to work on it if you keep the mileage within the warranty period.

David has a good perspective on projects in that way too many guys start dropping huge money on parts, then the wife decides she wants a new Benz/bigger boobs, or the market or their health goes tits up and that's the end of that.

What I see in the first post is a lot of catalog shopping, not a lot of actual parts from experienced users - then we're going to toss in a stock rebuild 351C-2V with a slightly bigger cam?

Rod and Custom markets to the street rod crowd - aka - the Armor All and show trophy crew. The stock 71-73 suspension is not perfect, but you don't need to butcher up the car and put in a Pinto front end and to make it handle or ride nice. The Pinto doesn't handle that well either. Talk to the guys at Street or Track to work you up a suspension package that'll suit your tastes. I guarantee it'll run 1/3 the cost of that R&C unit or even less when you forget about the TCP rear coil overs. I'd also go with Wilwood if you want brakes that actually work.

 

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Well, it might make a little more sense knowing that he's owned the car for around 30 years, and has been working on restoring a couple of Studebakers.  I admit that I just poked around a little and discovered his other threads (asking about wind noise and power door locks). It sounds to me like he's starting out with a fairly nice project and just wants to improve what he already has to make it nicer and suitable for daily driver duty, rather than starting cold with a restoration project requiring more than just adding the laundry list of parts he's researched.

I can also certainly understand the sentiment of not wanting a newer car that can't be worked on because all new cars are engineered to make it very difficult for the DIYer to properly diagnose and maintain on their own.  There are some issues in my Mom's '01 Grand Prix that I've had trouble tracking down that would be much simpler to resolve were the car's various system components not wired together and programmed to work through the ECM/BCM, rather than independently as our cars are configured (for instance, there is no sane reason that a bad HVAC fan switch should be able to take out the dome lights, automatic headlights, and daytime running lamps, after all).

You and David bring up very good points about how projects become stalled and wind up on Craigslist going for much less than their sum of parts.  However, I think this is one of those times where that's not going to be the case and it'll take a lot more to squelch his enthusiasm than that.

I'm not up on which suspension kits are the best, better than others, or absolute turds, for that matter, so it's good to know that the R&C kits might be a little more about the bling, and less about actual performance... and I totally agree about the TCP coil-overs being WAY too overpriced, but what's the alternative? (I'm kind of asking for my own purposes now - I still want to drop the front of mine about an inch eventually, since my 1" drop springs from Laurel Mountain Mustang are anything but 1" dropped.)

Good stuff here, guys.  He did ask for input, after all. ;)

 

wdills

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Oct 26, 2018
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My Car
73 Mach1
Hi guys, Thanks for the feedback. Eric, it sounds like you have built yourself a pretty awesome car.

I guess I should have provided a little more back story on this thing in my original post. I have owned this car for 30 plus years. Dad got it for me when I was in high school. It was my daily driver until I got a real job and could afford to buy my first new car (94 Dodge Ram). From my high school days, this is what I remember about the car. The front cross member had rust in the bottom of it. The front end would not stay in alignment even though all the components were new so maybe the cross member was at fault or maybe it was that 351C sitting on top of light weight front end components. Either way my front cross member needs to be replaced. I figure that if I have to go to the trouble of replacing it, might as well go to a more modern setup.

I have put a lot of thought into the trade-offs of the electronics I am adding to make it a more enjoyable car to drive vs. the keep it simple and stock approach. I doubt I would want to drive it everyday without the electronics I am planning. If most of the electronics fail, it doesn't disable the car. If the Trans controller, EFI or ignition system fails, they are each stand-alone systems. I can just buy another one if I have to. I will also feel better about troubleshooting because I would have built it myself so I will understand the car better than the car I currently drive to work. I will know the purpose of every hose and wire and what it does.

There is some rust in the car but not as bad as the Studebakers I have restored. At least with a mustang I can buy the panels I need and don't have to fabricate them.

It is an original AC car so all the necessary pulleys are there. I am looking forward to getting rid of that massive OEM compressor and getting something smaller that doesn't cover half the engine.

As for the wiring, that doesn't worry me. I make my living as an electrical engineer. My plan is to create a electrical schematic that is specific to this car as I build it. I used the same approach on my Studebaker and it worked out great. It didn't get as many electrical mods as this one will but the concept is the same.

As for my personal experience. Below are some photos of my Stude. Dad and I spent about 6 years on this one. We are currently about two years into the work on his 50 model Studebaker, hoping to finish it the next year or so. Once it is done we will start on my Mustang. We are not professionals by any means, but we are pretty happy with the way my Stude turned out.







 
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