Calling holley sniper guys

[73' mach 1]

Now that the colder days are here I can now spend some time on the stang. 

Its time to wire up my sniper along with the rest of the hyperspark ignition. I also have a dakota digital dash to wire up. Lastly I have the BIM module that interfaces my sniper with the dakota digital. 

So since I'm using the holley and the whole holley ignition system I believe the only real wire ill need from my factory harness is the ignition correct? Which one is that by the way? I know ill need the headlights and stuff. Anyone with a dakota digital here? Did you cut the turn signal wires out of your harness and put that into the BIM module? I have more reading to do but was wondering what others might have experienced. Thanks

 

[Tnfastbk]

I have the dakota digital set up along with the MSD Atomic fuel injection and a mallory box and distributor.  But I used a Ron Francis wiring harness and I am NOT letting the MSD control the timing of electric fans. So I can't speak for the stock harness. 

 

[jmontes]

That is correct. Looks a little messy right now, but I pulled everything direct off the positive side of the battery into relays that will be triggered by the ECU.

I forget which color wire I pulled the ign. trigger from but can look tonight.

 

[Fabrice]

I believe I've used a red green wire right after the key switch before the next junction for the pink wire. Was also a 73. Polish your solder skills for that one, because it's the most important wire of the system and seen many on Holley forum having probs because it was either the wrong wire or poorly connected.
I haven't done it yet but will on my 71 right away and add it later on to the 73, is an extra switch for the fuel pump. As you will likely need to test KOEO often, the Sniper will prime each time.
I would also on this same blue wire add an inertia switch. Added it in trunk above the sender unit so it's more sensitive in case of rear impact where the fuel is.

I have an extra fan, but it has a sensor on its own tapped at the bottom of the radiator, no need for the sniper to control it in my case and also have it on a switch inside so i can start it even before its needed and it's also working when the Sniper is disconnected when you shut the engine off. That's btw when it engages most of the time on my car as engine gets hotter for a few after shutting down with no cooling.

If you have the Holley dist, it's having a led for the alignment so you should not miss it's install says Holley. However looks like many had probs, so if your dist is on atm and car is running fine, I'd keep it untouched for the install of the unit, once all runs, then install the Holley dist.

 

[73' mach 1]

I'm planning on just using the one cooling sensor for all. The holley can control the fans so no need for the added sensor. Plus I have the dakota with that BIM module that will report what the sniper reads. Once I figure out the ignition wire everything else "should" be straight forward. Does anyone have a wire diagram of our original dash so I know which wires are the brake lights and turn signals?

 

[73' mach 1]

I believe I've used a red green wire right after the key switch before the next junction for the pink wire. Was also a 73. Polish your solder skills for that one, because it's the most important wire of the system and seen many on Holley forum having probs because it was either the wrong wire or poorly connected.
I haven't done it yet but will on my 71 right away and add it later on to the 73, is an extra switch for the fuel pump. As you will likely need to test KOEO often, the Sniper will prime each time.
I would also on this same blue wire add an inertia switch. Added it in trunk above the sender unit so it's more sensitive in case of rear impact where the fuel is.

I have an extra fan, but it has a sensor on its own tapped at the bottom of the radiator, no need for the sniper to control it in my case and also have it on a switch inside so i can start it even before its needed and it's also working when the Sniper is disconnected when you shut the engine off. That's btw when it engages most of the time on my car as engine gets hotter for a few after shutting down with no cooling.

If you have the Holley dist, it's having a led for the alignment so you should not miss it's install says Holley. However looks like many had probs, so if your dist is on atm and car is running fine, I'd keep it untouched for the install of the unit, once all runs, then install the Holley dist.

Also forgot to ask? Are any of you guys running a dual plane intake with your Holley? Did you add a spacer? Mine is a blue thunder intake and I've been reading about the need to add a spacer to help balance the air flow mixture. 

 

[Fabrice]

Yes I do, an Offenhauser. I have added a 1cm spacer and all works fine. 
On my 429, I also have a dual Offenhauser, but of another type and the split is different, left/right vs front/back as on my 351. I will probably add a thicker spacer for it and/or may be grind a bit of the split to enhance the flow a bit if I can't squeeze a taller spacer (got ram air).

 

[tony-muscle]

Also forgot to ask? Are any of you guys running a dual plane intake with your Holley? Did you add a spacer? Mine is a blue thunder intake and I've been reading about the need to add a spacer to help balance the air flow mixture. 

I have a FiTech on a Blue Thunder, not a Holley, but for the purposes of your question it shouldn't matter. I had no issues with the BT. After a year I added a 1/4" spacer, which is the most I could fit under the RAM air. I can't feel a difference, but it definitely affected the mixture a little bit because it took the unit a couple miles to learn and drive smoothly again. After adding the spacer I had an acceleration bug that cured itself after a couple miles. Without a dyno it may be difficult to tell how much it helps since it is very dependent on each system.

 

[Tnfastbk]

I am running an Edelbrock Air Gap with no spacer.

 

[73' mach 1]

Looking around my engine bay as to where to mount my CD box and EFI coil. Is there a max length the coil wire can be?

 

[jmontes]

I am running an Edelbrock Air Gap with no spacer.

I used the red wire with green stripe to trigger the ign. relay.

running an air gap intake and mounted the CD box under the solenoid by the battery. 
 

 

[73' mach 1]

I used the red wire with green stripe to trigger the ign. relay.

running an air gap intake and mounted the CD box under the solenoid by the battery. 
 

Thanks for the info. Now I'm just trying to decide to best place to mount the coil. Ill try to check out some engine bays online.

 

[jmontes]

What coil are you using? I am running an MSD blaster and attached it in a “factory like” location 

 

[jmontes]

What coil are you using? I am running an MSD blaster and attached it in a “factory like” location 

 

[jmontes]

Sorry the photo is sideways

 

[midlife]

I'm planning on just using the one cooling sensor for all. The holley can control the fans so no need for the added sensor. Plus I have the dakota with that BIM module that will report what the sniper reads. Once I figure out the ignition wire everything else "should" be straight forward. Does anyone have a wire diagram of our original dash so I know which wires are the brake lights and turn signals?

Purple/white is brake line, the other side is typically red/yellow.  Turn signals are green/white and white/blue (left, right respectively).

 

[73' mach 1]

Purple/white is brake line, the other side is typically red/yellow.  Turn signals are green/white and white/blue (left, right respectively).

Thank you sir!

 

[73' mach 1]

What coil are you using? I am running an MSD blaster and attached it in a “factory like” location 

View attachment 46448

The coil im using is the Holley hyperspark EFI. It's the square GM style.

 

[73' mach 1]