Cam Specs

[Omie01]

OK, I got this Lunati cam brand new in box with the last block I bought. Specs: .536 IN lift, .562 EX lift@valve, [email protected] 224 IN-234 EX, Adv Dur: 290 IN 300 EX with 112 lobe separation. With .020-.030 overbore and closed chamber heads, air gap intake, 750 holley. (Assuming deck heights, gaskets etc. are the usual items, What could I expect for Torque and HP? I am starting to plan my next build and want to know if this cam would be a good fit for 400 plus horsepower.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Won't know for sure without a dyno run. :-/

But in the meantime, you can go to the CompCams website and use their CamQuest utility. Bang in the cam specs (or choose one of theirs that's closest), select the things you've done (or plan on doing) to your engine, and it'll give you a ballpark.

That's why I always qualify my comments with "according to CompCams, I should expect 400-ish." I used the utility to help me select the cam and other things I've done to my engine.

Hope that helps.

 

[c9zx]

There are a lot of variables and guessing at power from a certain combination that you haven't built before is just that, a guess. While the cam is not optimal, it should perform reasonably well and provide enough vacuum to operate power brakes. As to the guess, mine is 390-410. There is software that is reasonably accurate if the data inputs are accurate. If the budget permits, I'd go with a quasi-custom cam that is closer to optimal. Chuck

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

what type of lifters does it use-hydraulic flat tappet, Solid or one of the roller types (looks small to be a roller cam)

I'd say it should be a nice cam with a manual transmission and 3.50 gears or higher

Can't say it will get you to 400, but I have no doubt it will get you past 300 at the rear wheels which is all our suspensions are really good for without modification.

 

[c9zx]

I found the cam on the lunatic site. It is a hydraulic flat tappet. My WAG was for flywheel power. Chuck

 

[MotoArts]

It's from their Bracketmaster group of cams.

I have a new one on my shelf, too. And one in my unfired 460.

Bought it 'cause I liked the name.

Say it like Batman would say it... Bracketmaster...

Yeah, dig it

 

[Mikes73]

Lunatic cam, sounds like a cool name.

 

[wwhite72]

you would have to put yer heads on a flow bench to really determine.

 

[Omie01]

I was just looking for a ballpark idea. The next motor I build I want to have that awesome mid-RPM "PULL" of a well built cleveland. I want to shoot for a 7000 rpm capable motor. This time around I would like to do the oil mods, build the heads the right way and really enjoy the power. This will be my 3rd cleveland build and hopefully my last!! What would be a good quasi-custom grind for a 400plus hp cleveland? Anybody willing to share their specs?

 

[Mister 4x4]

Here is what I did, and what CompCams says should get me 400-ish:

• .060" bores w/9.5:1 Keith Black hypereutectic flat-top pistons
  
• CompCams Roller cam 274/274 w.566" lift (.218/.218 @.500" on 110 lobes)
  
• CompCams Roller "Everything" (1.73 Rockers, lifters, rods, rod guides)
  
• Crane Cams screw-in 7/16" rocker studs
  
• stock crank - turned .010"/.010"
  
• CNC balanced & blueprinted
  
• Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock Performer 600CFM carb
  
• 3-angle valve job & hardened seats (rebuilt the stock 2V heads w/mild port & polish)
  
• Chrome 'stock' oil pan, Edelbrock valve covers
  
• Holley electric fuel pump
  
• Duraspark ignition w/Accel Super Coil & 8mm wires
  
• Hooker Competition Ceramic-coated Long-Tube Headers
  
• Pype 2.5" stainless exhaust w/X-pipe - Pypes Street Pro mufflers
  

This was the first rebuild on the engine, and the machine shop was only planning on going .020"-.030", but the scars from the seized pistons rusted into place since 1980 were just too deep.

406 was the magic number CamQuest came up with. I'm sure that's at the flywheel, and there will be some parasitic loss from the AOD, but it'll still be 150-ish more than the car came with - so it should be "interesting" at the very least.

I don't see the harm in sharing engine build specs/tips/tricks/etc., on the forums. It's not like we're all going to get together on the weekend and try to out-do each other or anything.

 

[c9zx]

I used this cam in a 9.6:1, 4v, CC, 408C. http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2228&gid=284

It is a solid flat tappet. I had the cam ground on a 110 LSA and installed it on 106. It is a bit rough at idle and may be a bit much for a 351 inch street engine. Having it ground on a 112 LSA and installing it at 106 would calm things down at idle and still build good power. The engine dynode at 529HP and 496 TQ. I suggest contacting Bullet Cams for a recommendation. Look at their request form first and have all the information ready. Good luck with the build.

Chuck

 

[barnett468]

I want to shoot for a 7000 rpm capable motor.

you will need at least 391 gears with a 7000 rpm engine if you want it fast off the line.

 

[4Vforever]

The easiest way for you to achieve your 400+ HP is to stroke it, as you can't go wrong with more cubes for making power, add to this a nice set of factory heads or a set of good aftermarket alloys and your aim is too easy. Making one HP per cubic inch is easy as. The best way for camshaft selection is to decide what is entailed with what parts are used in the combination, with all details eg: comp ratio, cubes, head flows, etc, plus what trans, stall speed (if auto) rear gearing, vehicle weight and most of all, what you're going to do with the car eg: street, street/strip, full race, etc and get onto someone as Chuck suggested like Bullet and get one ground to suit your application. Simple fact is there is much more to making power than just a camshaft.

 

[Omie01]

I already have a 2800-3000 stall converter and 3.50 gears, without a 4th gear I just felt 3.91 would be a bit steep.

 

[c9zx]

Just as information, the cam I used peaked at 6450 RPM in a 408 inch engine. So, with a 357 inch engine, your are looking at a shift point that is several hundred RPM higher. Seems a bit much if you want to use a 3.50:1 gear. That much RPM will require a significant investment in very high quality valve train components to manage the the moving mass of the valves and supporting springs. That RPM range moves you into single plane intake use. Also not all that great with a 3.5:1 gear. Figure out how you want to use this car 90% of the time and base the build on that with the capability to do most of what you want to do the other 10% of the time. You can build a 357 than can be shifted at 7000 RPM and still be reasonably streetable. Don't fall into the old "If some is good more has to be better." trap. Whatever you build match the rest of the drivetrain to the engine. Chuck

 

[Omie01]

I'm starting to think 7000rpm may be a bit too much. But that being said I want to feel the classic "PULL" of a well built cleveland. The one I have now is 350hp with 375ft lbs tq, tops out at 5500 rpm and it feels GOOD, but I think there is plenty of room for improvement. I do plan on building a VERY strong valve train this time around as I will have a couple years to build this time. I'm going to do a lot of cam research and build everything else to suit. Is a solid lifter cam of today not much hassle or do you still have to reset lash every time you play?

 

[jbojo]

Omie01,

The motor that you want will be costly. Like many have already said is to match your complete pkg to your goal. You mention you want the classic pull feel from the Cleveland and changing to a 3.91 rear end will give you that however not very good a freeway speeds for a long trip. First decide what you plan to do with the car and then design the whole drivetrain around that decision. For me personally I wanted a street-able setup but with some kick so I chose parts that would meet those desires. I didn't want a motor that sounded like it was going to die and had to fight with it to keep it going at a stop, but if I stomped on it it would get up and go. I think that I achieved my goal with my combination, it's quick, very street-able, good at 70mph (2700 rpm with 3.89 rear) and will push you into the seat on acceleration and I would feel comfortable spinning it to 6500 with my setup. Lots of members have built really good motors so listen to what they have to say and then decide from there. The last thing that you want is to spend thousands of $$$ on the setup and then be unhappy with it.

Last thing, consider modern electronics, it will do wonders with smoothing out the motor. I used a performance cam but the electronics does a good job at keeping it running smoothly.

 

[Omie01]

What electronics are you talking about? EFI? Electronic ignition? Tranny? Unfortunately my budget won't allow for EFI, and I like carburated motors. I do plan on going with electronic ignition this time around. And some day down the road would like to go to automatic overdrive trans. For now I am just going to take this build a bit slower as I already have a good strong 4 bbl Cleveland in my car now, I am just trying to pin down my cam situation, I'm not entirely happy with my hydraulic cam, and not sure if I want to go with a solid lifter cam either. Ideally I would like to go with a full roller system, as long as funds allow I want to save up for that. There is a part of me that wants to stick as close to a "Boss" style motor as I can with a few "upgrades".

 

[jbojo]

What electronics are you talking about? EFI? Electronic ignition? Tranny? Unfortunately my budget won't allow for EFI, and I like carburated motors. I do plan on going with electronic ignition this time around. And some day down the road would like to go to automatic overdrive trans. For now I am just going to take this build a bit slower as I already have a good strong 4 bbl Cleveland in my car now, I am just trying to pin down my cam situation, I'm not entirely happy with my hydraulic cam, and not sure if I want to go with a solid lifter cam either. Ideally I would like to go with a full roller system, as long as funds allow I want to save up for that. There is a part of me that wants to stick as close to a "Boss" style motor as I can with a few "upgrades".

All of the above that you mention for the electronics. You just have a computer constantly adjusting the motor for optimal performance. When I watch mine running I can see the AFR changing as well as the ignition timing to keep the idle that I have set. The computer is programed with the timing advance that I want and doesn't depend on weights or vacuum to adjust it. Just out of curiosity why don't you like the hydraulic lifter cam that you have and what do you mean when you say "BOSS" style? Maybe changing the lifters that you have resolve your concerns. Personally I think that the 3.91 rear addition would give you that BOSS type of performance that you are looking for as if I remember correctly your motor already dyno'd with more HP and torque of a BOSS motor. I went down your path and probably bought parts that I may never use in search of more HP. Not trying to influence your decisions just things that you may want to think about and research more. Good luck on your future build.