- Feb 20, 2020
- Reaction score
- North Georgia
- My Car
- 1972 Mach 1 dark green
Penetrating oil first. You need two wrenches, top and bottom. You got a new mount kit with the new bar, if all else fails, cut the rods, scrap anyways. You MAY have to drop the exhaust on one side depending on how your pipes were bent. I had to drop one side at the muffler, after that it was easy peasy. Just measure from the frame either side to make sure it's even. Mine was 4".Went to install my new Addco 990 bar today and got stopped cold in my tracks. The bolts holding the bushing mounts, all 4, are spinning with the nuts. No idea how to fix this.
Ah, sorry I missed what you were talking about. My bad! I'm pretty sure those are (supposed to be) weld nuts on the inside of the frame. If they've broken loose, you got a problem. In earlier posts, there is a sketch of a mounting system for an aftermarket type sway bar that shows a sort of U bolt that can be passed through the frame and the bracket bolts up to that. You might have to cut the current bolts and find those U bolt thingys. Other than that, I feel your pain. See Lazarus's post April 26th. P 1, Sketch.Not talking about the end links. The bolts come down from the box frame to mount the two bushings are the problem, no access to the top of them.
Really!!! Ford must have wanted to cut costs big time to eliminate 4 weld-nuts. My 71 M code has 5/16-18 thread bolts with locator tips that obviously screw into weld-nuts. I'm still using the originals.My 72 Q code rear sway bar frame bushings are fastened with coarse threaded, hex head, sheet metal screws. It surprised me but, it appears to be original. It sounds like the threads rusted away. Try to get a pry bar bushing strap and pry while turning the screw. Chuck