Carb swap options with 4300A-equipped M-code '71 (351C)

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Wound up picking up a fantastic, used 4160 (80457-3) rebuild by Just Carburetors (lucky me, they're local!) for $200. Excuse the corny picture:

holley_600_justcarbs.jpg


Now if my base gaskets would just hurry up and get here...

-Kurt

 
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Is the bike in the pic from the 70s? I'm going to be disappointed if it isn't. :p
1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, bought from the son of the original owner as a frameset and a box of parts. Built it back up last year; most of the original bits are present (and what has been changed out is otherwise the same as it would have had or is a period upgrade).

paramount_seeingdouble_8.jpg


-Kurt

 
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That's exactly what I imagined it would be. My wife used to ask why I like stuff from the 70s. I said if I didn't I wouldn't be married to her...she's a 77 model. Lol

My latest item is a Soundesign model 3933C am-fm stereo clock radio with the numbers that flip over. That was my birthday present from her. How cool is that? Sorry no pics of it yet though.

 
FYI - back on the main topic:

Would it be advisable to adapt the original (or put on an aftermarket Holley) idle stop solenoid to the 4160, or would the potential for dieseling issues be mitigated by the 4160 vs. the 4300?

-Kurt

 
FYI - back on the main topic:

Would it be advisable to adapt the original (or put on an aftermarket Holley) idle stop solenoid to the 4160, or would the potential for dieseling issues be mitigated by the 4160 vs. the 4300?

-Kurt
FYI- Sorry did not realize a comment would throw the whole thread off

 
FYI- Sorry did not realize a comment would throw the whole thread off
Don't worry about it at all - nothing like a little OT to liven up a thread.

I only posted that comment as the setup came to mind as I was reviewing the linkage in my head.

-Kurt

 
FYI - back on the main topic:

Would it be advisable to adapt the original (or put on an aftermarket Holley) idle stop solenoid to the 4160, or would the potential for dieseling issues be mitigated by the 4160 vs. the 4300?

-Kurt
I don't have an idle stop solenoid on my M-code 4 speed. It had the original 4300 and would diesel...it also had a bad bog. I swapped it with a good Edelbrock 600 carb I had on the shelf. The bog went away but it still dieseled. Yesterday I installed new Autolite 25s and wires. The dieseling is now gone. I say try the 4160 without the solenoid and see how it does. If you have dieseling at that point, then explore other options.

BTW, I watched your Lego train wreck video last night. Fantastic! You have great ideas to come up with the scenes for the videos and the skills to produce. Ever considered a career with Dreamworks or something similar? [/hijack over]

 
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BTW, I watched your Lego train wreck video last night. Fantastic! You have great ideas to come up with the scenes for the videos and the skills to produce. Ever considered a career with Dreamworks or something similar? [/hijack over]

::eek:fftopic::

 
I don't have an idle stop solenoid on my M-code 4 speed. It had the original 4300 and would diesel...it also had a bad bog. I swapped it with a good Edelbrock 600 carb I had on the shelf. The bog went away but it still dieseled. Yesterday I installed new Autolite 25s and wires. The dieseling is now gone. I say try the 4160 without the solenoid and see how it does. If you have dieseling at that point, then explore other options.
4-speed manual then? Correct me if I am wrong, but I seem to recall digging up on some forum that the anti-dieseling solenoid is particularly necessary on auto transmission setups (which would be of concern to me, as I'm dealing with the C6).

I'll give it a try without. I don't have a kickback return spring on hand, so I might get the dashpot adapter plate to hang the spring from in the meantime - just in case.

-Kurt

 
4-speed manual then? Correct me if I am wrong, but I seem to recall digging up on some forum that the anti-dieseling solenoid is particularly necessary on auto transmission setups (which would be of concern to me, as I'm dealing with the C6).

I'll give it a try without. I don't have a kickback return spring on hand, so I might get the dashpot adapter plate to hang the spring from in the meantime - just in case.

-Kurt
Agreed. It would be more necessary on an auto equipped car because if that car dieseled it would be harder to make it stop. With a 4 speed car when the engine want to diesel the driver lets the clutch out a little while in gear to put a load on the "dying" engine to help it die. An auto equipped car is a bit more tricky to keep a load the engine as it is shut off. You could turn off the key while it's still rolling a little but that also locks the steering wheel...so have to be darn sure of everything before locking the steering on a moving car. lol

 
An auto equipped car is a bit more tricky to keep a load the engine as it is shut off. You could turn off the key while it's still rolling a little but that also locks the steering wheel...so have to be darn sure of everything before locking the steering on a moving car. lol
Put your foot on the brake while it's in drive, then turn it off. That puts plenty of load on it to stop the deiseling. No need to have it rolling too, you might hit the end of the garage!

Deiseling is usually the result of the idle speed set too high. The idle speed is lower while it's in drive, so turning it off while it's in drive "cures" the problem.

 
An auto equipped car is a bit more tricky to keep a load the engine as it is shut off. You could turn off the key while it's still rolling a little but that also locks the steering wheel...so have to be darn sure of everything before locking the steering on a moving car. lol
Put your foot on the brake while it's in drive, then turn it off. That puts plenty of load on it to stop the deiseling. No need to have it rolling too, you might hit the end of the garage!

Deiseling is usually the result of the idle speed set too high. The idle speed is lower while it's in drive, so turning it off while it's in drive "cures" the problem.
I like to live dangerously. :p

 
That's exactly what I imagined it would be. My wife used to ask why I like stuff from the 70s. I said if I didn't I wouldn't be married to her...she's a 77 model. Lol

My latest item is a Soundesign model 3933C am-fm stereo clock radio with the numbers that flip over. That was my birthday present from her. How cool is that? Sorry no pics of it yet though.
My parents had one of those clocks forever! I think they replaced it for no reason other than it was old.

 
Test fitting time:

71_mustang_18.jpg


71_mustang_19.jpg


71_mustang_20.jpg


Excuse the bright blue PCV hose; it was the hardest petroleum-friendly line (in fact, even rated for that E-85 crap) I could find. It'll stay there until I can find something less hotroddish.

-Kurt

 
When is the first start scheduled? I've got my fingers crossed.
Not sure. Sore throat and general grogginess may slow me down on this end this week, but this is the plan:

  1. Clean original, corroded steel T-stat housing - CJ Pony Parts sent me an aluminum aftermarket piece which I'm sending right back.
  2. Drop in the T-stat and T-stat housing; the 333-192 arrived from FlowKooler today and tested good in a pot of boiling water. Got the gasket from Rock Auto.
  3. Turns out the Ford clip for kickdown won't work on the Holley. E-clip time.
  4. Install upper and lower radiator hoses (got them); fill system with water - for now - and pressure test to 16-17 PSI.
  5. Hope that the lower hose-to-water pump connection doesn't leak - pump had tons of rust in this area, of which I've done my best to clean without removing the pump.
  6. Connect all vacuum lines and plug the vac feed for the choke heat pipe
  7. Find a suitable 12v lead to connect the electric choke
  8. Check carb adjustments
  9. New fuel hose to carb
  10. Pick up some 93-octane fuel in a jerry can for the initial start. Who knows what's been sitting in the tank for 3 years?
  11. Vroom, vroom.

-Kurt

 
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As 1971Mach1 stated the stock intake is pretty good especially when used with a 1" spacer (I like HVH the most). The Ed performer for 4V is no better and I feel the stock intake out performs the Ed above 5000 RPM. A 750 cfm Autolite/Motorcraft carb was used on the Boss 351/HO engines in 71/72. Chuck
huh, like one of these:

supers.jpg


If so, with a 4bbl carb and a manifold with 4 holes in it which way do you install it facing?

 
If so, with a 4bbl carb and a manifold with 4 holes in it which way do you install it facing?
I'd think that one of those adapters for an open-center plenum would only create excessive turbulence between the carb and a stock intake - no matter which way it's oriented.

-Kurt

 
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