Chains, engine hoist...

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Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Messages
2,326
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802
Location
The Netherlands
My Car
73 Grande 351C
71 Mach 1 429CJ
As the engine hoists I can rent near my home are on the weak and small side for my 429.

as I also want to get the trans out as well I saw in total days per time, I'd be just bits cheaper than buying a safe one.

So was looking at this baby..

https://www.vocor.nl/heffen-en-hijsen/1565-motor-takel-2-tons-opvouwbaar-200000000124.html

its dutch: it says 

The lifting arm is adjustable from 1050 to 1590mm (41.3 to 62.6 inch )

I see on pict on most extended the capacity goes down to 1 ton, which is enough

and arm can go up to 2,36 meter high (92.91 inch). 

With the right chain length that also should do it I think.

However this thing isn't delivered with chains or anything but a hook.

found a place to buy in all kinds

https://www.manutan.nl/nl/mnl/stalen-ketting-grade-80-korte-schakels-1120-tot-11200-kg

and stuffs to secure the chain

https://www.manutan.nl/nl/mnl/harpsluiting-staal-belasting-100-tot-2000-kg

I have not yet found here some adapter to change the angle load (too expensive if comes from the states). So for now its all about doing it with chains.

I would like to know if you guys have one, how should the connection chains to the hook (if you use chains of course)

The plan being to have the engine on chain at the four corners, I also wonder what is smarter: 4 chains and using the prev link a way to adjust their length

or if I should better take 2 longer chains and secure them in the middle at the hook?

Also, as the plan is to get the trans out too, as I don't see how i could keep the car safely 1/2 meter higher without investing in other lift alternatives.

If you have done it, tips welcome.

EDIT: found one here, I was just not searching using the right term..

https://www.gereedschapbestellen.nl/werkplaatskraan-evenaar-450-kg

 
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That looks like it should do the job. Buying one makes a lot of sense. Whenever you rent something there is always the feeling of needing to hurry and finish the job, when you own it no more pressure, and you can take your time.

I've had mine for more than 30 years, don't use it that often, but when I need it I don't have to worry about how I'm going to get the job done. I partially dismantle mine and store it in the corner when not in use.

 
That looks like it should do the job. Buying one makes a lot of sense. Whenever you rent something there is always the feeling of needing to hurry and finish the job, when you own it no more pressure, and you can take your time.

I've had mine for more than 30 years, don't use it that often, but when I need it I don't have to worry about how I'm going to get the job done. I partially dismantle mine and store it in the corner when not in use.
Yes my thought. This one can be also folded for the time I will use it and totally brought back to just a pile of tubes when it needs be put in a long sleeping period.

I don't have the room to keep it in a corner for long, got only 4 corners in my relatively small garage and they already host loads of "I_might_need_you_again_one day" kind of stuffs :)

About the chains? Better 4 or 2 long ones you think? I see they are sold per meter.

I’d buy one for sure, like Don said, would hate to have to rush. Have you looked for second hand ones?
Yes and no, found second hands, but too small and not that much cheaper vs a new one. The thing about the 2 vs 1 tons isn't just the load. 1 ton would be enough but the 2 tons version has much wider and longer legs, the extra triangle stabilise/reinforce it also more. Which is very handy/safe as you need roll a bit while busy.

I could also sell it when done. I know a guy in Amsterdam who will need one soon, and he has a great new garage with corners to fill!  ;)

 
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Buy an engine lift plate like this.  https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/62670/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710675493&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-646916420832:pla-208883391911&CATARGETID=230006180037474440&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjwio3dBRAqEiwAHWsNVam4fSxs5WtM9meXjZ7ncz97NZEmocyTARpI5ZuT09cpXHDMpdN5ChoCmakQAvD_BwE

I've used one dozens of times with no problem including an all iron 460 and C6 out of and into a Ford F-250. Also, get the two ton engine puller. Chuck

 
Buy an engine lift plate like this.  https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/62670/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710675493&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-646916420832:pla-208883391911&CATARGETID=230006180037474440&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjwio3dBRAqEiwAHWsNVam4fSxs5WtM9meXjZ7ncz97NZEmocyTARpI5ZuT09cpXHDMpdN5ChoCmakQAvD_BwE

I've used one dozens of times with no problem including an all iron 460 and C6 out of and into a Ford F-250. Also, get the two ton engine puller. Chuck
I've considered one of these, I'm not worrying about the weight that it would hold. I know I could lift the block with just one of the intake studs.

But I think this isn't precise enough and I'm bit afraid I have no real control on the Y rotation, I need install on both sides the headers (in 3 pieces) while busy, and there is like a micro play on both sides to do this. During the install, my fingers will be in that micro space, and I'd love to keep them round.

I have the feeling chains on 4 sides of the block would be more secure to do this. 

Or am I totally wrong based on your experience?

 
Buy an engine lift plate like this.  https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/62670/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710675493&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-646916420832:pla-208883391911&CATARGETID=230006180037474440&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjwio3dBRAqEiwAHWsNVam4fSxs5WtM9meXjZ7ncz97NZEmocyTARpI5ZuT09cpXHDMpdN5ChoCmakQAvD_BwE

I've used one dozens of times with no problem including an all iron 460 and C6 out of and into a Ford F-250. Also, get the two ton engine puller. Chuck
I've considered one of these, I'm not worrying about the weight that it would hold. I know I could lift the block with just one of the intake studs.

But I think this isn't precise enough and I'm bit afraid I have no real control on the Y rotation, I need install on both sides the headers (in 3 pieces) while busy, and there is like a micro play on both sides to do this. During the install, my fingers will be in that micro space, and I'd love to keep them round.

I have the feeling chains on 4 sides of the block would be more secure to do this. 

Or am I totally wrong based on your experience?
What headers do you have that require the engine to be suspended by the hoist to install them? Tubular Automotive, Crites? or what? As long as it is suspended, regardless as to how, it is going to move with the slightest touch. I've installed several by myself but, it is a lot easier with two people. You are right, one tight 5/16 coarse thread, grade 8 bolt has a tensile strength of 7850 lbs.

 
I use mine with 4 chains, one to each corner of the block. I've never had a problem removing or installing an engine/transmission combination by myself. Just take your time and go a little at a time, adjusting the leveler as needed to get the angle going in and as you start to enter the transmission tunnel.

 
Who's that?! I'm actually thinking of making extra corners by putting in another floor just for storage coz I got wood left. Or maybe just really big shelves...

 
Just bought this a couple months ago, nicest built load leveler (short of a Snap On or Mac) that I've ever seen. Yes, it's Chinese :(

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XSCEJY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Engine hoist you posted looks to be the same one that I've had for twenty years. The fold up design is a real space saver. I've had zero issues with it, other than having to replace some casters when a friend borrowed it and sent if out the back of his truck on the highway...

 
I remember this day well... I removed my 429 myself and everything went fine. To clarify, due to space limitations I imposed on myself :shootself: , i could not extend the arm's/leg's as much as i should have, so I had to keep a close eye on the weight distribution... I bought this hoist a number of year's ago and like other's here have stated, nice to have when the time comes that you need one. It folds up nicely and I put it away in the corner. I really hope I don't have to remove another 429 setup in the future...



 
As the engine hoists I can rent near my home are on the weak and small side for my 429.

as I also want to get the trans out as well I saw in total days per time, I'd be just bits cheaper than buying a safe one.

So was looking at this baby..

https://www.vocor.nl/heffen-en-hijsen/1565-motor-takel-2-tons-opvouwbaar-200000000124.html

its dutch: it says 

The lifting arm is adjustable from 1050 to 1590mm (41.3 to 62.6 inch )

I see on pict on most extended the capacity goes down to 1 ton, which is enough

and arm can go up to 2,36 meter high (92.91 inch). 

With the right chain length that also should do it I think.

However this thing isn't delivered with chains or anything but a hook.

found a place to buy in all kinds

https://www.manutan.nl/nl/mnl/stalen-ketting-grade-80-korte-schakels-1120-tot-11200-kg

and stuffs to secure the chain

https://www.manutan.nl/nl/mnl/harpsluiting-staal-belasting-100-tot-2000-kg

I have not yet found here some adapter to change the angle load (too expensive if comes from the states). So for now its all about doing it with chains.

I would like to know if you guys have one, how should the connection chains to the hook (if you use chains of course)

The plan being to have the engine on chain at the four corners, I also wonder what is smarter: 4 chains and using the prev link a way to adjust their length

or if I should better take 2 longer chains and secure them in the middle at the hook?

Also, as the plan is to get the trans out too, as I don't see how i could keep the car safely 1/2 meter higher without investing in other lift alternatives.

If you have done it, tips welcome.

EDIT: found one here, I was just not searching using the right term..

https://www.gereedschapbestellen.nl/werkplaatskraan-evenaar-450-kg
IRIK trading (look also for the load leveller):

https://www.iriktrading.com/catalog/product/view/_ignore_category/1/id/2587/s/werkplaatskraan-professioneel-2-ton/

https://www.iriktrading.com/werkplaats-kraan-load-leveller.html

IMG_3756.JPG

 
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What headers do you have that require the engine to be suspended by the hoist to install them? 
Searched and found they are Hookers.

These are the same, 

tho the ones I have are coated with some whitish layer, very rough to the touch. can't find them listed. Prolly an ancient coating method that isn't done anymore.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hok-6115hkr/overview/make/ford

They look and are pretty simple, but in practice precision isn't really there. The small tubes need to align to fit both the heads plane and be twisted to be inserted into the main collector. The main collector must be installed first once it can go around the cross member. I have one loose (havent managed to get the other one loose yet) and even outside the car, its not that easy to get them aligned. So in a restricted space, its a real pita. with capital P. Needs be done in the last bits before the engine rest on mounts to have more space and some play. You would expect you could just bolt the 2 small ones and once the engine is in place, just push up the collector and be done. That would be the expected in a world where Hooker would have experienced the pain of the install and mod the designs accordingly. In the real world, at least for the ones I have, the 2 tubes are not cut paralel where they meet, so there is no way to do this.

I would also prefer to buy new ones vs restore them (blasting+coating), but the price they ask for is ridiculous. Same quality for a 351c that are not even 200. Add coating/shipment/taxes and it becomes unsane for what they are.

 
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This is just my personal observations after working on cars since 1962. I would never remove or install the engine and transmission together, WHY? It is easy to remove the transmission from under the car and also install. That takes all the headaches out of the process. When they put them in the factory they had lifts made just for that engine and had less than two minutes to install.

An A frame with a chain fall is the safest way to install an engine. I watched some experts on TV drop an engine when installing with a hydraulic lift. Yes I have one and use it often.

I install the engine then I have studs cut off that I put in the bell housing and then slide the transmission on.

Why put it all together and struggle with getting it all to clear. Same for headers. Leave them off and put on after engine is in. You will do much less damage to any paint.

An engine balance is great for getting just the right angle.

Why make a simple thing complicated?

Not a race.

 
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