clutch pedal spring sticking

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My Car
1990 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, 306ci
1978 F150 Ranger, 545 Stroker
1973 Mexican Mach 1 ( final confirmation TBD), 351C
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after fully releasing the clutch pedal, the transmission is properly in gear, but the pedal is not always fully releasing all the way.  if I do nothing, a moment later it will spring back and make a spring-pop sound, basically just the sound of force created by the spring against the travel stop.  sometimes after releasing the clutch pedal, I give the pedal a little sideways tap to get it to release.  anyone ever have this issue?  maybe something just needs to be lubricated better? thanks

 
First question, what clutch do you have in there? If it's a stock original style long finger clutch, maybe lubrication, BUT most people replace clutches with newer diaphragm type. If you put in a diaphragm clutch, you must remove the large helper spring at the top of the pedal arm. It's a bi*tch to do but can be done by removing the dash top to get at it. When I did mine, I took a Dremel and cut-off disc, but be very careful, sparks are not good around electric wiring. There is a ton of pressure on that spring, be very careful.

The best way of course is to strip out the dash and pedal support, but likely you don't want to do that.

Here's a diagram that might help.

Also, thinking about it, if you have already done the spring removal. there are other areas that might cause problems. Again referring to what I di on my car, I completely rebuilt the entire clutch linkage and support system.

1) remove the clutch pedal shaft plastic bushings and replace with bearings. I chose Mustang Steve's bearing kit, but there are others on the market.

2)replaced all the rod plastic bushing with Oil-lite bronze bushings, but this requires machining the rod holes to size, but I can't remember if I needed to add weld first.

3) increased the return spring size on the Z bar to frame. This seemed to help somewhat.

Basically go through the entire set-up and eliminate any areas where binding can occur.

Clutch set-up.pdf

 

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The clutch needs to be adjusted properly for it to return consistently, and even then sometimes it won't due to wear in the linkage bushings. It's pretty common for the lower pushrod hole to be egged out on the z-bar, and the z-bar pivot bushings to be toast.

I would start with removing the two return springs that are on the z-bar and see how much slop you have in the components. If it's really bad, you'll want to replace as many of the bushings and clips as possible to tighten it up, then adjust the pedal free-play per the shop manual.

 
its something that was not a problem 3 months ago, but is a problem about 50% of the time now, so I imagine it will continue to get worse. thanks for the info.

 
its something that was not a problem 3 months ago, but is a problem about 50% of the time now, so I imagine it will continue to get worse. thanks for the info.
Ah! sounds more like adjustments and bushing replacement as Hemikiller suggested.

What I did was to the extreme I'll be honest, but the result was an easier, smoother clutch operation with a quite heavy Centerforce II clutch.

best of luck with it,

Geoff.

 
yeah, I have no problem with the feel of the clutch pedal, I just need the spring to release all the way.
 That's great,  but can you confirm that the heavy helper spring was removed or not.

A diaphragm clutch does not have the power to overcome that spring. However, from your reply, I assume that spring is long gone.

 
yeah, I have no problem with the feel of the clutch pedal, I just need the spring to release all the way.
Hi Mustang NJ I have exactly the problem you had on my Mustang. I recently had the Modern Driveline 5 speed conversion fitted, and I don’t know what type of clutch was fitted with that (I can contact them and find out I guess). Did you finally resolve your problem and if so what did you do? Cheers, Nigel
 
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