competition plus shifter

[boilermaster]

Hey all,

I have collecting parts (1973 Mach) for my 1971 fastback.

I have decided to install the toploader transmission and full length console.

Going to have to do something about the worn out factory hurst competition plus shifter.

Have read Here that the shifter levers and shifter rods and trans mounting plate are all different from oem to aftermarket competition plus.

Would it be worthwhile to buy a new shifter only and use it's internals and somehow weld the lower part of it's shift levers on to the factory levers so one could use the factory rods and keep the shifter in it's factory location so I don't have to modify the tunnel and retain the full length console.

have the equipment and skills to build some sort of jigs for the levers for precise locating .

thoughts and suggestions please , what are you 4 speed people doing for shifters ?

Boilermaster

 

[OMS]

I pulled a almost new comp plus shifter out of a 4 speed car, last year.

To my sunrise it had adjustable rods.

The car ran / shifted well , it was in the stock spot with a console

 

[kcmash]

Hey all,

I have collecting parts (1973 Mach) for my 1971 fastback.

I have decided to install the toploader transmission and full length console.

Going to have to do something about the worn out factory hurst competition plus shifter.

Have read Here that the shifter levers and shifter rods and trans mounting plate are all different from oem to aftermarket competition plus.

Would it be worthwhile to buy a new shifter only and use it's internals and somehow weld the lower part of it's shift levers on to the factory levers so one could use the factory rods and keep the shifter in it's factory location so I don't have to modify the tunnel and retain the full length console.

have the equipment and skills to build some sort of jigs for the levers for precise locating .

thoughts and suggestions please , what are you 4 speed people doing for shifters ?

Boilermaster

Have you considered rebuilding the shifter? I think the kits are readily available still. I rebuilt the one I have. Actually, the only differences between the original and an after market are the shift handle component and the rear housing that has the BUSH light bracket. So if you buy a nice aftermarket competition plus you can easily use all the guts to rework yours.

Or you can do what Don said and use another shifter. I am always glad to take the original off your hands!

Kcmash

 

[Stanglover]

Hey all,

I have collecting parts (1973 Mach) for my 1971 fastback.

I have decided to install the toploader transmission and full length console.

Going to have to do something about the worn out factory hurst competition plus shifter.

Have read Here that the shifter levers and shifter rods and trans mounting plate are all different from oem to aftermarket competition plus.

Would it be worthwhile to buy a new shifter only and use it's internals and somehow weld the lower part of it's shift levers on to the factory levers so one could use the factory rods and keep the shifter in it's factory location so I don't have to modify the tunnel and retain the full length console.

have the equipment and skills to build some sort of jigs for the levers for precise locating .

thoughts and suggestions please , what are you 4 speed people doing for shifters ?

Boilermaster

Again from my own experience only. The aftermarket Hurst Comp Plus shifters are next to useless. I bought one and promptly returned it once I figured out that a; it was totally the wrong style for the 71, b; the shift lever was way too long and also round, c; I would have to spend another 300 bucks or so on the Hurst shift rod kit. I called Hurst to enquire why they were selling something that was so far from the original for the Ford Mustang 4 speed. I got no definite answer, but they did suggest I email their rebuild guy. Go try www.hurstshiftersonline.com / Hurst shifter rebuild program . There is way more to done to a shifter than just replacing bushings. The cost to exchange one if I remember is about $250 IF it has not been touched or damaged as they use yours as a core. Mine had been welded to hold the stick in place, it can only be rebuilt and returned, but I haven't done that yet due to the exchange rate on the dollar. I will be getting it rebuilt before next season regardless.

Hope that give some insight.

 

[boilermaster]

Hey all,

I have collecting parts (1973 Mach) for my 1971 fastback.

I have decided to install the toploader transmission and full length console.

Going to have to do something about the worn out factory hurst competition plus shifter.

Have read Here that the shifter levers and shifter rods and trans mounting plate are all different from oem to aftermarket competition plus.

Would it be worthwhile to buy a new shifter only and use it's internals and somehow weld the lower part of it's shift levers on to the factory levers so one could use the factory rods and keep the shifter in it's factory location so I don't have to modify the tunnel and retain the full length console.

have the equipment and skills to build some sort of jigs for the levers for precise locating .

thoughts and suggestions please , what are you 4 speed people doing for shifters ?

Boilermaster

Have you considered rebuilding the shifter? I think the kits are readily available still. I rebuilt the one I have. Actually, the only differences between the original and an after market are the shift handle component and the rear housing that has the BUSH light bracket. So if you buy a nice aftermarket competition plus you can easily use all the guts to rework yours.

Or you can do what Don said and use another shifter. I am always glad to take the original off your hands!

Kcmash

Kcmash,

I have considered buying just the shifter and using most of it's parts.

I have also been told that the shift levers in the shifter itself are somewhat different (length ? ) cannot imagine the offsets would be different.

From what I see on my shifter is that the outer case is worn on at least one side and the levers appear to be worn, (can easily spread the levers 1/8'' , gotta believe the levers are shot.

I would consider sending the shifter in for rebuild if I knew I would get it back and that it would happen in a timely manner.

The big question here is : What have others done , have their shifters not worn out or do we have a bunch of 4 speed cars running around that don't shift well.

Boilermaster

 

[boilermaster]

Hey all,

I have collecting parts (1973 Mach) for my 1971 fastback.

I have decided to install the toploader transmission and full length console.

Going to have to do something about the worn out factory hurst competition plus shifter.

Have read Here that the shifter levers and shifter rods and trans mounting plate are all different from oem to aftermarket competition plus.

Would it be worthwhile to buy a new shifter only and use it's internals and somehow weld the lower part of it's shift levers on to the factory levers so one could use the factory rods and keep the shifter in it's factory location so I don't have to modify the tunnel and retain the full length console.

have the equipment and skills to build some sort of jigs for the levers for precise locating .

thoughts and suggestions please , what are you 4 speed people doing for shifters ?

Boilermaster

Again from my own experience only. The aftermarket Hurst Comp Plus shifters are next to useless. I bought one and promptly returned it once I figured out that a; it was totally the wrong style for the 71, b; the shift lever was way too long and also round, c; I would have to spend another 300 bucks or so on the Hurst shift rod kit. I called Hurst to enquire why they were selling something that was so far from the original for the Ford Mustang 4 speed. I got no definite answer, but they did suggest I email their rebuild guy. Go try www.hurstshiftersonline.com / Hurst shifter rebuild program . There is way more to done to a shifter than just replacing bushings. The cost to exchange one if I remember is about $250 IF it has not been touched or damaged as they use yours as a core. Mine had been welded to hold the stick in place, it can only be rebuilt and returned, but I haven't done that yet due to the exchange rate on the dollar. I will be getting it rebuilt before next season regardless.

Hope that give some insight.

Stanglover,

I have heard and believe what you are saying to be true and factual.

Definitely not buying the install kit and a new shifter.

I have also heard that the cannot be removed from a new shifter ?

any truth to that one ?

I would just buy a new shifter if I knew I could remove the lever (even if I had to weld in my old one ) and even if I had to do some welding on the lower levers.

Boilermaster

 

[mjlan]

What shifter do you have that is worn out?

The aftermarket Comp Plus is universal for the tail shaft

Mounting location and should fit in the correct spot (give or take) to use a console. It is a one size fits all generic looking unit with a non- removable handle.

70-71 OEM Hursts were flat stick, 72-73 were round I think. I know the aftermarket and OEM rods and mounts are different, don't know if there were differences in the OEM linkage and mounts.

As others have said, Hurst offers a rebuild service.

What do you have?

The OEM flat stick shifters with linkage rods are pretty pricey, but look so much better than the aftermarket...

 

[red351]

The aftermarket Hurst favors the driver side a bit more, but did fit the 72 tunnel shifter hole ok. Yes the aftermarket stick not removable. I had to cut and bend and weld some to fit in the full console better. All that was done down below the boot so not to be seen. I had later found a real Hurst 72 oem round stick shifter and to be honest I like the feel of the aftermarket more. The oem removable stick has some play where it locks together (with new parts) still. The flat iron that's used to center the stick over to the right more has some flex when shifted hard. The aftermarket comp plus has 2 limit bolts to adjust to not beat the linkage to death. The oem doesn't, but you can add that. The oem has the mounting for reverse backup lite switch the other dosen't but can be added. The oem linkage rod were custom length for ford and fine tuned with slots and lock nuts

 

[boilermaster]

What shifter do you have that is worn out?

The aftermarket Comp Plus is universal for the tail shaft

Mounting location and should fit in the correct spot (give or take) to use a console. It is a one size fits all generic looking unit with a non- removable handle.

70-71 OEM Hursts were flat stick, 72-73 were round I think. I know the aftermarket and OEM rods and mounts are different, don't know if there were differences in the OEM linkage and mounts.

As others have said, Hurst offers a rebuild service.

What do you have?

The OEM flat stick shifters with linkage rods are pretty pricey, but look so much better than the aftermarket...

Mjlan,

I have an OEM Hurst competition plus (round stick) that came out of my 1973 Q code Mach.

I can clearly see Ford part numbers on the linkages and the rods are slotted.

Just wondering at what point Hurst says that my shifter core is no good.

Boilermaster

 

[boilermaster]

The aftermarket Hurst favors the driver side a bit more, but did fit the 72 tunnel shifter hole ok. Yes the aftermarket stick not removable. I had to cut and bend and weld some to fit in the full console better. All that was done down below the boot so not to be seen. I had later found a real Hurst 72 oem round stick shifter and to be honest I like the feel of the aftermarket more. The oem removable stick has some play where it locks together (with new parts) still. The flat iron that's used to center the stick over to the right more has some flex when shifted hard. The aftermarket comp plus has 2 limit bolts to adjust to not beat the linkage to death. The oem doesn't, but you can add that. The oem has the mounting for reverse backup lite switch the other dosen't but can be added. The oem linkage rod were custom length for ford and fine tuned with slots and lock nuts

red351,

Thank you,

This is the stuff that I have been looking for, from someone who has been there and done that.

Suppose I could cut bend weld the stick if it is not removable if I have to go with the aftermarket unit.

All I really need to know now is if the 3 levers that come out of the shifter to the rods are the same length and bends ?

Boilermaster

 

[kcmash]

Sorry,

I sure don't want to steer anyone wrong. Hurst used different levers and rods for different applications from what I have seen. So the aftermarket I had was for a Ford Toploader. I have seen Hurst Competition plus with L shaped levers, straight levers, and 45 degree. some for muncie tranny's etc. I'll try to post pictures of the 2 I have right now.

Hey all,

I have collecting parts (1973 Mach) for my 1971 fastback.

I have decided to install the toploader transmission and full length console.

Going to have to do something about the worn out factory hurst competition plus shifter.

Have read Here that the shifter levers and shifter rods and trans mounting plate are all different from oem to aftermarket competition plus.

Would it be worthwhile to buy a new shifter only and use it's internals and somehow weld the lower part of it's shift levers on to the factory levers so one could use the factory rods and keep the shifter in it's factory location so I don't have to modify the tunnel and retain the full length console.

have the equipment and skills to build some sort of jigs for the levers for precise locating .

thoughts and suggestions please , what are you 4 speed people doing for shifters ?

Boilermaster

Have you considered rebuilding the shifter? I think the kits are readily available still. I rebuilt the one I have. Actually, the only differences between the original and an after market are the shift handle component and the rear housing that has the BUSH light bracket. So if you buy a nice aftermarket competition plus you can easily use all the guts to rework yours.

Or you can do what Don said and use another shifter. I am always glad to take the original off your hands!

Kcmash

Kcmash,

I have considered buying just the shifter and using most of it's parts.

I have also been told that the shift levers in the shifter itself are somewhat different (length ? ) cannot imagine the offsets would be different.

From what I see on my shifter is that the outer case is worn on at least one side and the levers appear to be worn, (can easily spread the levers 1/8'' , gotta believe the levers are shot.

I would consider sending the shifter in for rebuild if I knew I would get it back and that it would happen in a timely manner.

The big question here is : What have others done , have their shifters not worn out or do we have a bunch of 4 speed cars running around that don't shift well.

Boilermaster

 

[Stanglover]

Stanglover,

I have heard and believe what you are saying to be true and factual.

Definitely not buying the install kit and a new shifter.

I have also heard that the cannot be removed from a new shifter ?

any truth to that one ?

I would just buy a new shifter if I knew I could remove the lever (even if I had to weld in my old one ) and even if I had to do some welding on the lower levers.

Boilermaster

I'll post a couple of pictures of my 71 shifter to show the offset and levers. If I remember, the aftermarket was quite different and there was no way the Ford rods were going to fit and work. Yes, there is always ways to make it work, but for me, that was not going to be an option. The stick on the aftermarket one cannot be removed, but you could cut and weld if you so choose. As mentioned elsewhere, the 71 has a flat stick, 72/73 has a round one.

I talked to Scott at Hurstshiftersonline and was told that the rebuilt ones would be as good as original, all new parts were needed. That was a year ago now though. It might be worth looking more into a rebuild rather than F'in around trying to make something work. That's the route I will be taking after my experience with the aftermarket junk......... even if it is Hurst.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

A few months ago I took pictures of a NOS Hurst Competition Plus 291 7634 / 291 7716 and posted on the forum. I scanned the exploded assembly and put in the post. It is a flat stick shifter with welded assembly not bolted. There was a picture showing a bolted one. This shifter was made to fit 1964- 1973 mustang so I am sure there are areas not the same as a factory shifter. The diameter of the shift rods on the competition plus are smaller than the factory. I bought this one back in the 70's for a 65 mustang and never used it. Seems like it cost $35.00. I doubt that anything would interchange with the stock shifter from the competition plus shifter.

 

[Stanglover]

Boilermaster, There are several posts on the forum if you search from the box, top right. These shifters have been discussed in great detail and perhaps you'll find more information there without members reposting. You might look at post dated 03/07/16 and 08/26/16.

Just a thought that might help

 

[boilermaster]

Boilermaster, There are several posts on the forum if you search from the box, top right. These shifters have been discussed in great detail and perhaps you'll find more information there without members reposting. You might look at post dated 03/07/16 and 08/26/16.

Just a thought that might help

Thanks Stanglover,

I have only been looking at the possibly related threads,

much more information to be gained by using the search key.

Does anyone possibly have a parts breakdown/ exploded view of either

the oem or aftermarket hurst shifter ?

would really like to have a view of what I am getting into.

Boilermaster

 

[Hemikiller]

There's not a lot that goes wrong with the shifter itself. From Mark, who runs Toploader Heaven, he usually just disassembled the shifter mechanism, cleaned, greased and reassembled. He told me very rarely was anything ever broken in one, they were usually just gunked up from neglect. The factory levers and rods differed depending upon the application - lots of variation here. Front/mid/rear shifter mount, long and short shaft, 28 & 31 spline etc. All that info is in the Ford MPC.

The biggest issue is the linkage pivot bushings, Not sure if they are still available. If anyone knows of some, I could use a couple sets. They are different than the other throttle and auto shifter bushings.

FWIW, I ran the aftermarket Hurst Comp Plus shifter for many moons. Other than it buzzed a bit from the metal bushings I used, it was a fine shifter. Far more precise than the factory unit with it's isolating bushings. I threw many a gear with that unit, lots of WOT speed shifting and it never broke on me. Fit fine in my 71 with a console, no mods needed. You'll have issues if you have a cobbled install kit, the wrong kit or a different tailhousing. Again, lots of variation here. I used the one they call for the 70-73 Mustang and it worked perfectly from the first time, every time.

 

[Stanglover]

There's not a lot that goes wrong with the shifter itself. From Mark, who runs Toploader Heaven, he usually just disassembled the shifter mechanism, cleaned, greased and reassembled. He told me very rarely was anything ever broken in one, they were usually just gunked up from neglect. The factory levers and rods differed depending upon the application - lots of variation here. Front/mid/rear shifter mount, long and short shaft, 28 & 31 spline etc. All that info is in the Ford MPC.

The biggest issue is the linkage pivot bushings, Not sure if they are still available. If anyone knows of some, I could use a couple sets. They are different than the other throttle and auto shifter bushings.

FWIW, I ran the aftermarket Hurst Comp Plus shifter for many moons. Other than it buzzed a bit from the metal bushings I used, it was a fine shifter. Far more precise than the factory unit with it's isolating bushings. I threw many a gear with that unit, lots of WOT speed shifting and it never broke on me. Fit fine in my 71 with a console, no mods needed. You'll have issues if you have a cobbled install kit, the wrong kit or a different tailhousing. Again, lots of variation here. I used the one they call for the 70-73 Mustang and it worked perfectly from the first time, every time.

Interesting that you got one that fitted and worked, albeit a few years ago as I read it. The one I bought was just last year and believe me, it was no where near being acceptable for the 71. Would it have fit? Maybe, but without being able to switch the stick, I wasn't going to mess with it and the offset was way different. Yes, it was the correct part listed for the 71-73 Mustang 4 speed. Perhaps Hurst change the design to a so-called 'one-size-fits-all' since you bought yours!!

 

[OMS]

There's not a lot that goes wrong with the shifter itself. From Mark, who runs Toploader Heaven, he usually just disassembled the shifter mechanism, cleaned, greased and reassembled. He told me very rarely was anything ever broken in one, they were usually just gunked up from neglect. The factory levers and rods differed depending upon the application - lots of variation here. Front/mid/rear shifter mount, long and short shaft, 28 & 31 spline etc. All that info is in the Ford MPC.

The biggest issue is the linkage pivot bushings, Not sure if they are still available. If anyone knows of some, I could use a couple sets. They are different than the other throttle and auto shifter bushings.

FWIW, I ran the aftermarket Hurst Comp Plus shifter for many moons. Other than it buzzed a bit from the metal bushings I used, it was a fine shifter. Far more precise than the factory unit with it's isolating bushings. I threw many a gear with that unit, lots of WOT speed shifting and it never broke on me. Fit fine in my 71 with a console, no mods needed. You'll have issues if you have a cobbled install kit, the wrong kit or a different tailhousing. Again, lots of variation here. I used the one they call for the 70-73 Mustang and it worked perfectly from the first time, every time.

Interesting that you got one that fitted and worked, albeit a few years ago as I read it. The one I bought was just last year and believe me, it was no where near being acceptable for the 71. Would it have fit? Maybe, but without being able to switch the stick, I wasn't going to mess with it and the offset was way different. Yes, it was the correct part listed for the 71-73 Mustang 4 speed. Perhaps Hurst change the design to a so-called 'one-size-fits-all' since you bought yours!!

As I said earlier I too had a car with one - worked great, that was at least 5 years ago when I got the car.