Cowl Shake

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jul 5, 2010
Messages
6,685
Reaction score
386
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
My Car
73 Convertible
Hey guys I am looking for some input. Without adding a rollbar or cage, I am looking ways to reinforce the car. I plan to build some subframe connectors similar to the global or maier pieces. I am thinking of adding a center reinforcement similar to the total control unit. has anyone tied the connectors into the original rockers? I am also thinking of seam welding the shock towers and adding the boss 302 gussets to the towers near the upper control arms. My goal is to have a nice quiet (as quiet as a convertible can be) good handling road car. The mods must be as invisible as possible.

 
It is important to remember that to a vast degree, shock dampening determines ride. If a smooth ride is your priority, you should go for some type of standard gas shocks - - stay from the stiffer ones like KYB and Konis.

Furthermore, if your rear springs are getting a bit tired, you might want to swap them out for some stiffer five-leaf, mideye with rubber or urethane bushings. In the front, go with 620 coils.

Hope this helps!

BT

 
Once you start adding all that reinforcement the car becomes more ridge which in turn with make any type of vibrations be amplified to any other parts like dashs, seats, interior brackets and such. Causing a very loud interior. Some ways of fixing those rattles though and putting in the stiffners and such is to run that one side sticky foam under every screw on the dash and interior panel. (pain in the butt) If you are just looking for ride quality cobra3073 could not have said it better. Unless you wanted to go with air bags all the way around.

Hope that helps

Cory

 
We have one club guy with a gold glow 71 vert. He installed subframe connectors recently and has been raving about the benefits. Verts are so wiggly to start that adding the subframes would at least get you the structural integrity of a coupe or fast back.

After he installed the subframes he said it was a different car, worth doing in my book.

Eventually I would install subframe connectors on my fastback.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Now it's a matter of making a pattern and getting some tubing bent. I'm plotting to build a set... kinda a cross between the GW and Maier pieces, wrapping around the rear rail and also tying into the spring perch area. I'd like to add an X brace ala the TCI system. I LOVE building this stuff!

 
Hey guys I am looking for some input. Without adding a rollbar or cage, I am looking ways to reinforce the car. I plan to build some subframe connectors similar to the global or maier pieces. I am thinking of adding a center reinforcement similar to the total control unit. has anyone tied the connectors into the original rockers? I am also thinking of seam welding the shock towers and adding the boss 302 gussets to the towers near the upper control arms. My goal is to have a nice quiet (as quiet as a convertible can be) good handling road car. The mods must be as invisible as possible.
Thanks for posting the question and for the answers! I am going to go with the suggestions here about the subframe connectors and then change the rear springs if necessary.

I sprayed the lizard skin on my 71 convertible to help keep it quiet. It wasn't hard to do, kinda fun really.

 
Make sure your door hinges and lock pin are tight and use new door seals. I upgraded the size of my door bushings and replaced everything else. It still flexes the body but it is more like a flex rather than a big rattle when I go over RR tracks.

Tight doors make a big difference and doesn't alter the car. Cheaper too.

 
Thanks for posting the question and for the answers! I am going to go with the suggestions here about the subframe connectors and then change the rear springs if necessary.

I sprayed the lizard skin on my 71 convertible to help keep it quiet. It wasn't hard to do, kinda fun really.

Do you like the lizzard skin compared to Dyna-Mat?

 
The convertibles came from the factory with an extra support plate about halfway back and under the driveshaft. It's rectangular and without looking, its about 18x24 inches (just a guess). You might want to make sure it's still there and someone didn't' leave it off after servicing the u-joints, exhaust, or trans. I know on mine it's always a pain in the rear to keep the exhaust pipe from rattling against it. Just a thought!

 
Thanks for the ideas guys. The plate is present under my car. It is a butt pain to keep the exhaust from rattling. I think replacing the door seals and pins will help in the solid feel as well, kinda waiting to redo the seals when it gets painted "someday".

I am curious about the lizzard skin as opposed to the mat style sound suppression systems.

Also curious if bedliner as an under coat helps in quieting the car.

 
Thanks for the ideas guys. The plate is present under my car. It is a butt pain to keep the exhaust from rattling. I think replacing the door seals and pins will help in the solid feel as well, kinda waiting to redo the seals when it gets painted "someday".

I am curious about the lizzard skin as opposed to the mat style sound suppression systems.

Also curious if bedliner as an under coat helps in quieting the car.
I chose the lizard skin because I didn't want to worry about something getting under the mat like spilling a drink or if I left the top down and it rained. The lizard skin is about as thick as a credit card and really works - at least for heat resistance and it doesn't effect things that mount over it(carpet, seats, etc) since it is so thin.

I cut a section out of my trunk after I sprayed it and then left the piece in the backyard. One really sunny day I was cleaning up and could pick up that piece just fine but the other metal was way too hot to touch let alone hold on to.

I sprayed both the heat resistance and the sound deadner but haven't had the car on the road yet to tell you how the sound part works. It has to work tho since it covers everything like a new skin. Total thickness of both really is about as thick as a credit card.

No I don't sell the stuff but feel free to ask whatever you want to know. I asked a lot of questions and called the people a few times before I bought it.

 
The convertibles came from the factory with an extra support plate about halfway back and under the driveshaft. It's rectangular and without looking, its about 18x24 inches (just a guess). You might want to make sure it's still there and someone didn't' leave it off after servicing the u-joints, exhaust, or trans. I know on mine it's always a pain in the rear to keep the exhaust pipe from rattling against it. Just a thought!
I installed a new dual exhaust on my conv. and it was rattling on that same plate.

I put some washers between the plate and floorpan to stop the exhaust rattle. Then, a few weeks later I was looking on a website and found that the previous owner had installed the plate upside down with the lip up into the exhaust.

Make sure your plate is installed correctly.

 
The convertibles came from the factory with an extra support plate about halfway back and under the driveshaft. It's rectangular and without looking, its about 18x24 inches (just a guess). You might want to make sure it's still there and someone didn't' leave it off after servicing the u-joints, exhaust, or trans. I know on mine it's always a pain in the rear to keep the exhaust pipe from rattling against it. Just a thought!
I installed a new dual exhaust on my conv. and it was rattling on that same plate.

I put some washers between the plate and floorpan to stop the exhaust rattle. Then, a few weeks later I was looking on a website and found that the previous owner had installed the plate upside down with the lip up into the exhaust.

Make sure your plate is installed correctly.
Good tip, I finally got around to checking my plate and it is correct with the lip down.

 
Back
Top