Cup Holders vs. Power Window Switch

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Michael O’Harran

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To some, a full restoration of my 72' Mach 1 would leave them wondering why I might want to be drinking in my car and worry about cup holders? I don't plan on trailering so if I go to a show or anywhere, I want to drive and enjoy so I am thinking of some comforts, like how I added AC. So I want my classic look with minimal deviation. So I had my original gauges all restored original to include the clock. This lead to an replacement full length center console for clock and manual trans. I'm customizing the interior upholstery with my black and blue theme. I see the Sport R interior packages with the colored stitching which I love. I can't find any of those that replace the ashtray with cup holders AND include the spot for the clock! I want the full console connected to the center dash. I have a conflict. I added quad power windows and planned on placing the window switches in the center ashtray to hide them, but now the only cupholders I can find that will work while keeping the full center dash are the astray plug.

Does anyone have any alternate suggestions for me to keep a console with manual trans, clock, and cupholders that will look good, but not plug into the ashtray? I feel like I've exhausted my searching that this point and have started looking at passenger side cupholders that could attach to center hump but nothing looks right yet. If I go with the ashtray cupholders, I'll likely have to attach my power window switch panel to the slope of the center console going down to the ashtray. I'd like to avoid screwing into a new center console is I could avoid it or at least what ever I do I want it to look as seamless as possible. I'll gladly take suggestions that assist with what I am trying to accomplish here. Thanks
 
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Michael O’Harran

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MooseStang

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I've got one of the two cupholders that drop in the console ashtray and I have a manual. They don't work together. The shifter will collide with cups when in 2nd or 4th. I'm going to look into modifying it to position it further back sometime soon.
 

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Michael O’Harran

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1972 Mach 1 Mustang 351C
Currently Under Restoration
I've got one of the two cupholders that drop in the console ashtray and I have a manual. They don't work together. The shifter will collide with cups when in 2nd or 4th. I'm going to look into modifying it to position it further back sometime soon.
That is a great example of experience that would otherwise be over looked. Ive found an alternative that I was torn between what you have and I already bought but should be able to return and this below. Now I guess I will go with this. https://www.qvc.com/qvc.product.V39...Ko0__B0GoeDwbUfMn7476IYAjYflDuxIaAou0EALw_wcB
I saw a few other where the cup holders are attached to the frames of the seats and come out under and the cup is held up but rests on the floor and it just looks not polished enough for me. I think I'll try this, which frees up my ashtray to hid switches as in my original plan. Thank you so much for your experience.
1647611085211.png
 

MooseStang

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Glad I could offer some info. Please post some pics of the those holders when you get them. I think I would swap the sides, though, and put the cup towards the back.
 
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That is a great example of experience that would otherwise be over looked. Ive found an alternative that I was torn between what you have and I already bought but should be able to return and this below. Now I guess I will go with this. https://www.qvc.com/qvc.product.V39...Ko0__B0GoeDwbUfMn7476IYAjYflDuxIaAou0EALw_wcB
I saw a few other where the cup holders are attached to the frames of the seats and come out under and the cup is held up but rests on the floor and it just looks not polished enough for me. I think I'll try this, which frees up my ashtray to hid switches as in my original plan. Thank you so much for your experience.
View attachment 60779
Since I am a user of the similar ones that go between the seat and console I tell you that it will be difficult to fit one in there while seating. Our seats are very narrow and I am on the thinner side. I use the one on the passenger seat when carrying no passengers.
 

Michael O’Harran

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Currently Under Restoration
Since I am a user of the similar ones that go between the seat and console I tell you that it will be difficult to fit one in there while seating. Our seats are very narrow and I am on the thinner side. I use the one on the passenger seat when carrying no passengers.
I just went back and looked because I assumed you were the same person who showed the photo of the passenger seat side saddle. Yes I recall that comment and see the issues. I am thinking that with the example I attached it will be trimmer and tapered back toward the buckle and fit a bit better, but won't know until until I get them, and I'm still installing glass and electrical, but I hate waiting till I'm at that next step to then plan for it. I like to get ahead so when I'm ready I'm not waiting on backorders, etc. But thanks. When I get there I will share the outcome.
 
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Hi Michael,

What you are chasing presents itself as a dilemma in trying to combine all the features you are wanting to bring together. Whatever way you end up going, in trying to achieve all these elements, will involve some sort of tricky modifications.

I have some options for you to consider. First up, the basic decision is do you want to keep your new center console or not. I think trying to keep it is the better option, as you have gone to the trouble and expense of buying one and setting up the factory clock arrangement in it. However, as you have discovered, keeping it restricts your options of having cup holders intergrated into the limited real estate space the console offers up. MooseStang shows a Plug and Chug cup holder for '71 to '73's fitting into the ash tray compartment, that doesn't work well with geared cars. Tony Muscle's add on trey is pretty cool and looks good, but robs the passenger of proper seating arrangement.

Option one. My suggestion is to move and modify this Plug and Chug cup holder, so it ends up sitting on a horizontal plane coming off the sloping face of your center console. Setting it up in this position will require some tricky customization in modding up a cup holder base that attaches or intergtates itself to the sloping face of the console, and captures the base of the Plug and Chung cup holder. If you can achieve that, then you get to change gears without the gear shift hitting the Plug and Chug, and install your power window switches concealed under the ash tray sliding door. The drawback would be trying to change gears with tall bottles of drink that would get in your way when trying to change the gears. I bought a Plug and Chug cup holder many years ago for my '73 Vert with auto trans but found the depth of the cup holders fairly shallow, thus meaning that when a drink is placed in the cup holder, you have to take care not to accidentally knock it over while driving around. I ended up storing mine away in a cupboard, as i made a vow that food or drinks were not allowed in the car anymore. I have broken that rule since, as i now carry a small leak proof squeeze water bottle only in the center console storage compartment. Link..........................


Option two involves removing your new center console and replacing it with a full length Humphugger Cruiser unit for '71 to ''73's. Link ......................................


Going this way, gives you the option of placing the cup holders along side of the console, The drawbacks are this restricts some space for your passengers, and you would have to mod up a concealed compartment for your window switches. There is space to do this just back from the gear shifting cut out. As well, you would have to mod up a way to mount the factory clock onto the front of the console. These mods are achieveable but will cost extra money on top of the cost of the new Humphugger. $429.00 US. Not cheap.

The third option is to buy a new center console from Classic Industries. Link ...................................


This would work OK, but the drawbacks are fitting up the factory clock into the front of the console. The company does not make mention of setting this up. And also, you would be limited in setting up the window switches to the sloping face of the console. This console comes with smart stiching down the sides. I would give serious consideration for option one as the best all 'round cheapest solution, that should get you out of jail. In my case, i plan to install power windows in the future, and will be placing my window switches on the sloping face of the center console. I will be modding up a shallow box type base plate arrangement to mount the switches on flush to the face of the box. This box base will get attached to the sides of the console with either heavy duty velcro, or small wafer head self tap screws. It will be sprayed black to match the console color and finish, and end up looking intergrated into the console design. This means that i don't end up cutting out a large rectangular hole on the front sloping face of the console for the switches and wiring. Also, in my humble opinion, having good looking window switches on show is not a negative for me. But that's just me.

What ever way you settle on going, all the best with your final result!

Greg.:)
 
Last edited:

Michael O’Harran

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2022
Messages
163
Reaction score
46
Location
Maryland region south of DC
My Car
1972 Mach 1 Mustang 351C
Currently Under Restoration
Hi Michael,

What you are chasing presents itself as a dilemma in trying to combine all the features you are wanting to bring together. Whatever way you end up going, in trying to achieve all these elements, will involve some sort of tricky modifications.

I have some options for you to consider. First up, the basic decision is do you want to keep your new center console or not. I think trying to keep it is the better option, as you have gone to the trouble and expense of buying one and setting up the factory clock arrangement in it. However, as you have discovered, keeping it restricts your options of having cup holders intergrated into the limited real estate space the console offers up. MooseStang shows a Plug and Chug cup holder for '71 to '73's fitting into the ash tray compartment, that doesn't work well with geared cars.

Option one. My suggestion is to move and modify this Plug and Chug cup holder, so it ends up sitting on a horizontal plane coming off the sloping face of your center console. Setting it up in this position will require some tricky customization in modding up a cup holder base that attaches or intergtates itself to the sloping face of the console, and captures the base of the Plug and Chung cup holder. If you can achieve that, then you get to change gears without restriction and install your power window switches concealed under the ash tray sliding door. I bought a Plug and Chug cup holder many years ago for my '73 Vert with auto trans but found the depth of the cup holders fairly shallow, thus meaning that when a drink is placed in the cup holder, you have to take care not to accidentally knock it over while driving around. I ended up storing mine away, as i made a vow that food or drinks were not allowed in the car anymore. I have broken that rule, as i now carry a small leak proof squeeze water bottle only in the center console storage compartment. Link..........................


Option two involves removing your new center console and replacing it with a full length Humphugger Cruiser unit for '71 to ''73's. Link ......................................


Going this way, gives you the option of placing the cup holders along side of the console, The drawbacks are this restricts some space for your passengers, and you would have to mod up a concealed compartment for your window switches. There is space to do this just back from the gear shifting cut out. As well, you would have to mod up a way to mount the factory clock onto the front of the console. These mods are achieveable but will cost extra money on top of the cost of the new Humphugger. $429.00 US. Not cheap.

The third option is to buy a new center console from Classic Industries. Link ...................................


This would work OK, but the drawbacks are fitting up the factory clock into the front of the console. The company does not make mention of setting this up. And also, you would be limited in setting up the window switches to the sloping face of the console. This console comes with smart stiching down the sides. I would give serious consideration for option one as the best all 'round cheapest solution, that should get you out of jail. In my case, i plan to install power windows in the future, and will be placing my window switches on the sloping face of the center console. I will be modding up a shallow box type base plate arrangement to mount the switches on flush to the face of the box. This box base will get attached to the sides of the console with either heavy duty velcro, or small wafer head self tap screws. It will be sprayed black to match the console color and finish, and end up looking intergrated into the console design. This means that i don't end up cutting out a large rectangular hole on the front sloping face of the console for the switches and wiring. Also, in my humble opinion, having good looking window switches on show is not a negative for me. But that's just me.

What ever way you settle on going, all the best with your final result!

Greg.:)
Thank you for taking the time on such a well crafted response. I will share my end result.
 

Greg

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I have a 71 Mach 1 grabber blue and white, a 73 Mach 1 Copper and White with power sunroof and a 73 Convertible all loaded
Just put the window switches in the factory locations. Am I missing something?
 

Michael O’Harran

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Just put the window switches in the factory locations. Am I missing something?
I’ve got a central group of 4switches. What’s the factory location? I’ve seen pics of the drivers door panel with the bank of silver switches which I am not a fan of, nor do I have silver switches. They are newer looking black with backlit. If those are my only switches, thinking of the passenger being able to access their own window if it’s centrally located.
 
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Power window switches,

See variation pics below.

Original factory door setup. Nu Relics optional door and console mount switches. Cheap Ebay aftermarket Universal door mount switches.

Comments. Notice the Ford factory master door switch panel has an angled up mounting body.Trying to obtain these switches and switch mounting bodies is very hard and they are expensive to buy. Replacing any new modern switch door panel will have to involve coming up with a mounting body concept as well, unless you go for a Nu Relics Ford window crank style switch. The Ebay universal kits come with angled up mounting bodies as well for all four doors. I bought a Universal four door kit, but my plan is to use the four door master switch panel switches only, with no switches mounted to any of the door cards, and using my modded up mounting box, mount them on my sloping face of my center console as described in my reply above.

So the bottom line is there is nothing wrong with mounting power window switches on your door cards if you want, be they factory or aftermarket ones. I chose to mount mine on my center console because for me that is a better easy reach position than the traditional door mount, plus i did not want to hack into and modify my new deluxe door card from what it is now with a standard winder crank setup hole. With the Uni kits, you get circular flush mount replacement plug caps that i will color match to the door card color accurately. I am going to take a gamble with the Universal kit, as the Nu Relics are a top quality great peforming product, that sadly is way overpriced and too expensive for what it is and does. I cannot justify spending around the $2,000.00 Au plus mark on freakin power windows. Iv'e just spent around $1,200.00 Au on two new front seat covers for my '73 Vert, and $4,000.00 Au on rebuilding my C4 transmission.:cry:

Greg.
 

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Last edited:

Michael O’Harran

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2022
Messages
163
Reaction score
46
Location
Maryland region south of DC
My Car
1972 Mach 1 Mustang 351C
Currently Under Restoration
Power window switches,

See variation pics below.

Original factory door setup. Nu Relics optional door and console mount switches. Cheap Ebay aftermarket Universal door mount switches.

Comments. Notice the Ford factory master door switch panel has an angled up mounting body.Trying to obtain these switches and switch mounting bodies is very hard and they are expensive to buy. Replacing any new modern switch door panel will have to involve coming up with a mounting body concept as well, unless you go for a Nu Relics Ford window crank style switch. The Ebay universal kits come with angled up mounting bodies as well for all four doors. I bought a Universal four door kit, but my plan is to use the four door master switch panel switches only, with no switches mounted to any of the door cards, and using my modded up mounting box, mount them on my sloping face of my center console as described in my reply above.

So the bottom line is there is nothing wrong with mounting power window switches on your door cards if you want, be they factory or aftermarket ones. I chose to mount mine on my center console because for me that is a better easy reach position than the traditional door mount, plus i did not want to hack into and modify my new deluxe door card from what it is now with a standard winder crank setup hole. With the Uni kits, you get circular flush mount replacement plug caps that i will color match to the door card color accurately. I am going to take a gamble with the Universal kit, as the Nu Relics are a top quality great peforming product, that sadly is way overpriced and too expensive for what it is and does. I cannot justify spending around the $2,000.00 Au plus mark on freakin power windows. Iv'e just spent around $1,200.00 Au on two new front seat covers for my '73 Vert, and $4,000.00 Au on rebuilding my C4 transmission.:cry:

Greg.
Thank you and for the pictures to match. Helps a lot.
 
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