Dash paint color, near VIN

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klinton994

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My apologies if this info is out there already. My car, 1971 Mach 1, black interior, is in the upholstery shop, that a friend owns and works, getting all new glass, seat covers, door panels, and carpet.

With the windshield out, he painted the area of the dash that is between the dash pad and the windshield. He first painted it in a flat black. He thought it was too dull and re-painted in a semi-gloss. The semi is a bit shiny and I'm thinking a lot of glare on the windshield.

Does anyone know the correct, or close to correct color paint to use on this area.

Thanks in advance.

 

mpbsr

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My apologies if this info is out there already. My car, 1971 Mach 1, black interior, is in the upholstery shop, that a friend owns and works, getting all new glass, seat covers, door panels, and carpet.

With the windshield out, he painted the area of the dash that is between the dash pad and the windshield. He first painted it in a flat black. He thought it was too dull and re-painted in a semi-gloss. The semi is a bit shiny and I'm thinking a lot of glare on the windshield.

Does anyone know the correct, or close to correct color paint to use on this area.

Thanks in advance.
I sprayed mine satin black and it's fine.

 

Bill73Ragtop

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That little bit of exposed painted area isn't much. Doubt that it will have any windshield reflective issues. I installed black duct tape in that area since I found factory tape (black) when I took it apart. As I recall the factory manuals also showed a black tape in that area which is why I did the tape. You are looking at maybe 1/4" - 1/2" exposure. You could use a nice brush and paint some semi-flat black if you want.

Also, there is a dark stripe on the bottom of the wind shield glass that hides 95% of that area as it is.

Addendum: as I look back at this I misunderstood what area of the dash being referred to. I was addressing the sub-dash assembly underneath the dash pad itself (removable Pad and metal unit). Sorry for any confusion.

 
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PAPPY HAROLD

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NPD has the correct factory color. It is charcoal metallic in laquer. I used it on mine and it was perfect match Part# AP4464

 
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zell90r94

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Question... Is the charcoal grey metallic also used on the other trim pieces such as the kick panels, top of door trim, windshield pillars, headliner trim, etc?? I have the interior out of my 71 Mach ! and want to get the colors correct for all those trim pieces. The car was originally blue interior converted to black. The paint used everywhere was gloss enamel and looks bad. I have already stripped and refinished the dash and steering column in the SEM 4464 and it looks great! Just not sure about what the other trim get. Thanks in Advance!

 
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Like someone stated the correct color for the metal part of the dash is a metallic black that I get from NPD #AP-4464, Seymour product #16-395. None of the molded flexible plastic like the kick panels, console, A pillar covers and such was painted it was molded in color so no metallic. The instrument panel plastic, center dash where gages are and the plastic on the glove box and above is a flat black I call camera black. Also NPD can get the correct color don't have the number. The bezel around the radio and heater controls is painted the flat black.

It is a pain to mask off all the narrow chrome areas but I have found that a rotary Fiskars scissors like a person that sews uses with a Fiskars cutting board is the trick. You stick masking tape to the cutting board and you can use a straight edge to cut any width tape you need for masking off the chrome areas. The verbage on the radio bezel can be painted over and then just be careful and take lacquer thinner and wipe the letters back to chrome. You can polish the chrome before you paint and it will look brand new. To get the plastic chrome redone costs more than just buying new repo panels. The metal dash that holds the knobs and controls, the steering column, the end caps on the dash and the metal glove box door gets the metallic black AP-4464 that is more of a satin than semi gloss. It was the same for 65 through 73. If you don't have deluxe interior the metal panels on the top of the door gets the AP-4464 also. I have found the NPD Seymour to spray a great pattern and do a great job. I always glass bead the parts so the paint does not fill up the texture on the parts like the dash and after wiping down with prep solve spray with a self etching primer to help prevent rust, aerosol can also. I strip the paint off with aircraft stripper it is much faster than blasting it off and no warping the glass beading is to just get any rust off. Hope you have not put the dash back in it is much easier to paint out of the car with everything off and you can do a much better job. You should also put in a new heater core if you have the dash out and replace the insulation that falls off the cowl. If the heater box is scratched up you can glass bead lightly or even use walnut shells to blast even out the surface and spray with satin clear to make it look like new.

I glass bead all the raw steel parts under the dash and spray with satin clear to keep from rusting again. The parking brake mechanism has phosphate coating like the hood latch, hood hinges and shock mounts. You can also get the SLOP Gray color paint from NPD for the dash braces and hood latch brackets and some of the grill brackets. The brake pedal is painted with a semi gloss black part of the way and no paint where the pivot is. The gas pedal is phosphate also. You can order the phosphate on line to do your own. Keeping everything like original really makes a car pop in a show. Not all just flat black or semi gloss black.

If you are going to paint it the correct color does not cost any more and will make your car look great.

Attached a couple pics of some parts I just finished, not perfect but my car is not a show car but a driver but like I say if you are going to paint it cost no more to do the correct colors and types.

Hope I didn't bored you and plan of doing a thread on doing an over the winter detailing on a Mustang convertible. The cars goes from dirty used to like new and anyone can do it.

David

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zell90r94

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Thanks CMM. Excellent posts! In regards to the metal trim above he windows and windshield, do these get 4464 also? The plastic parts were originally molded in blue but were later painted semi gloss black. Would satin black laquer be correct? Any advice on stripping the old paint off the molded plastic? I assume the plastic is sensitive to solvents and don't want to lose the grain..

Thanks again for your post! the dash is still out I plan on putting a new heater core in and probably some dynamat/insulation

 
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Thanks CMM. Excellent posts! In regards to the metal trim above he windows and windshield, do these get 4464 also? The plastic parts were originally molded in blue but were later painted semi gloss black. Would satin black laquer be correct? Any advice on stripping the old paint off the molded plastic? I assume the plastic is sensitive to solvents and don't want to lose the grain..

Thanks again for your post! the dash is still out I plan on putting a new heater core in and probably some dynamat/insulation
All of the plastic had molded in color so it would not have had the metallic. Check with NPD and see what they list. Not sure of the number but it would not have the metallic. I would try some of the aircraft stripper on a little spot and see if it hurts the plastic. None of mine was painted that I was working with so never had to strip. It probably will not hurt it but do a test. It is so much easier to strip with the liquid stripper than blast it off.

I know it sounds a little strong but the best thing I have found to clean the upholstery with is lacquer thinner. I have tried mild detergent, blue coral upholstery cleaner, Mr. Clean erasers the lacquer thinner has done the best for me on door panels and seats. Never never put armor all on anything. Do not even have it in your shop it causes so many issues when painting. It also does harm to your upholstery and eventually makes it cloudy looking.

David

 
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