Distributor gear roll pin. Need some expert guidance.

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Tony,  

I am kinda stuck here.  When you raised your block, how exactly did you support it?  Did you release the motor mounts from the block and put a spacer block there, or release the crossing bolts and put a block between upper and lower motor mounts?  Kinda stuck at this point.

kcmash
I removed the bolt between upper and lower mounts and placed a 2x4 block in between. I raised one side at the time since at that time i didnt have an engine crane.

 

giantpune

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Drained the oil and swept the pan bottom with a magnet on a wand.

Good news I found the broken roll pin pieces.  Bad news I have no idea what else I found.

View attachment 52074
The two thinner pieces to the right kinda look like they were designed to capture a nut and keep it from spinning.

More pictures would help.  Do the smaller parts on the right look like chunks of gear teeth?

Either way, thats weight reduction.   Dont look a gift horse in the mouth.  :)

 
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I removed the bolt between upper and lower mounts and placed a 2x4 block in between. I raised one side at the time since at that time i didnt have an engine crane.
Thanks Tony, very helpful!  Can you get the pan the whole way out without removing the oil pump that way.  I will need to disconnect the H Pipe and loosen the tranny cross bolts to get that height.

kcmash

 
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The two thinner pieces to the right kinda look like they were designed to capture a nut and keep it from spinning.

More pictures would help.  Do the smaller parts on the right look like chunks of gear teeth?

Either way, thats weight reduction.   Dont look a gift horse in the mouth.  :)
I believe the smaller. Chunks may be gear tooth chunks from a different issue.

 
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Still not totally comfortable with this whole mess.  But here we go. 
 

H-pipe disconnected, tranny crossmember bolts loose, sway bar removed, fan shroud loosened.

image.jpg

 
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Got the new oil pump in.  The old one was marked high volume.

I did fill the pump with oil before installing.  Do you all think I should pull the dizzy and prime the pump again, or just crank the engine to prime since it is broken in?

I really didn’t think I would get that far today.

kcmash

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Just to be on the safe side I would pull the distributor and make sure you're getting oil pressure and make sure everything has fresh oil, it looks pretty well drained off everything.

As an alternative, pull the coil wire off and crank it until you get oil pressure.

 

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This whole mess came about from your distributor breaking and you having to replace it.  So you've already got to mess with reinstalling the distributor and setting your timing.  I vote yank the distributor off and use a drill and the tool to spin the oil pump and prime the system.  Its not that much more work.

Maybe while you have the pan off, you can use your access to the pistons to verify you're at true TDC and make sure your timing mark is accurate.  That always helps me feel better about loosening or removing the distributor.  Knowing that when you put it on, you can trust your timing marks.

 
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This whole mess came about from your distributor breaking and you having to replace it.  So you've already got to mess with reinstalling the distributor and setting your timing.  I vote yank the distributor off and use a drill and the tool to spin the oil pump and prime the system.  Its not that much more work.

Maybe while you have the pan off, you can use your access to the pistons to verify you're at true TDC and make sure your timing mark is accurate.  That always helps me feel better about loosening or removing the distributor.  Knowing that when you put it on, you can trust your timing marks.
Don't forget to run the drill in reverse, counterclockwise.

 

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And run the drill at the lower sleed if it has a speed selector. If not the drill may smoke.
Depends on the drill.  Most of them these days have little fans inside that are directly spun by the motor.  The faster you run the motor, the more air they pull through to cool them off.  And drills that have electronics inside like brushless motors as mosfets also have thermal sensors and will cut themselves off before they overheat and start burning up the electric bits.  If you run these drills slower, you'll trip the thermal cutoff sooner than if you ran it wide open.

I do think you're right about if you pulled out the corded craftsman drill you got from your great grandpappy.

 
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Depends on the drill.  Most of them these days have little fans inside that are directly spun by the motor.  The faster you run the motor, the more air they pull through to cool them off.  And drills that have electronics inside like brushless motors as mosfets also have thermal sensors and will cut themselves off before they overheat and start burning up the electric bits.  If you run these drills slower, you'll trip the thermal cutoff sooner than if you ran it wide open.

I do think you're right about if you pulled out the corded craftsman drill you got from your great grandpappy.
I am just sharing my recent experience. I have a fairly new cordless DeWalt. The first time I run the oil pump it was at high speed and after a few seconds it smoked - it didn't burn because I was able to use it after a few seconds and still today. At low speed I was able to achieve 80 psi of pressure with no problem.

 
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We use to put Chevy dizzy i a Ford just change gear and make the housing fit and put it in.
I vote to putting two roll pins in. Higher or lower at 90 deg. I was tool & die maker so I have the tools and access to a Bridgeport mill also. The screen on the oil pick up would stop any piece of the roll pin I think. And 351  does not have the big hole like 289 & 302 if the screen gets clogged. Pulling and engine is noting faster than fighting to get the pan off in the car.

 
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+1 on pulling the engine. I've pulled the pan with the engine in a couple of times on other vehicles. Good exercise in busting knuckles and frustration. Lowering the pan, dropping the oil pump, jacking the engine up, trying to get the gasket to stay in place while you wiggle the pan back in, getting the oil pump back in place and properly tightened (torqued), oil dripping on you and running down your arms into your arm pits. Doesn't take long to pull the engine, good time to freshen up the paint on it.

 
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I jacked the block up.  Used 2x4 spacers and removed the sway bar.

Pan came right out, gaskets stayed in place.  Oil pump went in easy( no more high volume oil pump for me).  New Dizzy it started and ran great.  

New mufflers go on Friday.  Sounds kinda wicked with the blown mufflers.


View attachment 20210621_204519.mp4






 
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I'm glad you got it fixed. A very good looking car.If you like the sound you could install some old fashioned cutouts. Chuck

 
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The two broken metal pieces I question look like part of the oil control ring spacer between the oil rings on a piston.  I figure it’s either a one time break or something that will cause a failure eventually,  but I am not going to tear the engine down to look for the source.  I am going to leave it together.

Now for the pain in the keester!  I went to the muffler shop Friday.  They could not install the new mufflers because they don’t have mufflers with the brackets welded on for the original style hangers.

So I call the maker of my exhaust system to get the correct mufflers and he can’t help me because his source for the brackets is behind on deliveries.  So I try checking the major parts houses and none of them have the staff to pick up a phone and answer my questions.

I mean really.  Now I can’t even buy mufflers to fit the OEM style hangers for our car.  I am so sick of not being able to get anything done easily anymore.  I mean really, I am off the road because no one has oem style mufflers?

Sick of it….

kcmash

 
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