Distributor gear roll pin. Need some expert guidance.

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My muffler shop just welded my original hangers back on after cutting them off the old ones. If you still have your hangers on the old ones, have them cut off and reused. New would be nice, but..........

 
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When at the small local, highly rated shop (even the local Ford Dealership uses them) the first thing I asked was if they could cut them off and weld them on the new mufflers.  The first reaction was ‘no’.  I assume they don’t have air chisels and spot weld drillers there.  They are a chop saw, flange, bend and weld shop.  I am afraid to cut them off myself because I can’t drive it to the shop then.

 Maybe I just buy mufflers,  cut and weld the brackets on the new ones, then install myself.

kcmash

 

giantpune

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I am afraid to cut them off myself because I can’t drive it to the shop then.
I don't follow you here.

When I put my car together, I dropped in a motor and some headers and then clamped on some 3" turndowns to the end of the headers and drove it around like that for a week till I could get it to the muffler shop.  One of the best weeks of my life.  :D

 
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I tried doing the mufflers myself.  I now have a Wednesday appointment…..

Today I am so pucking  fissed at the next pain in my a$$.  For some reason, the fuel sending unit plug started falling off on any drive, making the gas register empty on the gage.  I would reconnect, then it falls off the next time I drive it.  Usually when I get to 3rd gear or so.  Anyway, I crawl under the car to try putting a slight bend to one pin on the reproduction sending unit.  I center the plug, push it on, and one of the pins falls off the friggin sending unit.

I assume the best thing to do is drain the tank and put my Ford unit back in.  I see no options for an electrically conductive epoxy, and I don’t dare try a 3 hand solder operation on a gas tank.  If it’s full, it won’t get hot enough for the pin to solder, if it is empty the risk of explosion is too high.

Any good suggestions on how to proceed?  Any clever ideas for getting the tank drained?

kcmash

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IF you can get it down to a 1/4 full, 5 gallons, you can used two jacks to raise the left side high enough to get the sender out. One jack will kind of twist the car. Use jack stands as well of course. This is how I did my sender adjustment after putting in the new tank. I used the Dorman 692232 sender with zero issues so far.

 
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IF you can get it down to a 1/4 full, 5 gallons, you can used two jacks to raise the left side high enough to get the sender out. One jack will kind of twist the car. Use jack stands as well of course. This is how I did my sender adjustment after putting in the new tank. I used the Dorman 692232 sender with zero issues so far.
By chance, you mentioned that in another thread, Geoff: how did you check your sender after installment? Fill it with 5 gallons and see if it show 1/4 full? 

 
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By chance, you mentioned that in another thread, Geoff: how did you check your sender after installment? Fill it with 5 gallons and see if it show 1/4 full? 
Well it was 19 liters actually which equals 5 US gallons and yes as the tank is a 20 US gallon tank, it's the last quarter that's the most important (so you don't unexpectedly run out!!)

It's a while ago now, but if I remember, I needed to adjust the float arm by bending it upward slightly. I don't really understand the Ohms thing to adjust by resistance, so it's trial and error I'm afraid. It IS a PITA to have to raise and lower the car a couple of time I'll agree, but it worked out. Whether you need adjust the arm up or down will depend on the initial reading. It may well be right strait out of the box. Again if I remember, mine read high @ 1/4 tank. Hope that helps.

 
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Yes, Geoff, that helps. I hope mine will read ok out of the box, though  :biggrin:  

Btw: how is the situation up there in Canada? I heard it is unusual hot in there... Hope, you come through the heat without any damage - asked Ken about it as well! 

 
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Yes, Geoff, that helps. I hope mine will read ok out of the box, though  :biggrin:  

Btw: how is the situation up there in Canada? I heard it is unusual hot in there... Hope, you come through the heat without any damage - asked Ken about it as well! 
Tim, glad that is a help for you and I hope, kcmash as well, not heard from him yet.

As for the weather, in my area it has not been nearly as hot as "out west" where it hit 49.6 C in a small town in BC, just before most of that town was destroyed by a wild fire. Very tragic, but it seems all but 2 people got out in time. Locally, it's been the humidity that has been really draining on us, 32 C or 90F deg and 80% humidity. Now rain and heavy T storms. The weather has gone nuts!!

 
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Tim, glad that is a help for you and I hope, kcmash as well, not heard from him yet.

As for the weather, in my area it has not been nearly as hot as "out west" where it hit 49.6 C in a small town in BC, just before most of that town was destroyed by a wild fire. Very tragic, but it seems all but 2 people got out in time. Locally, it's been the humidity that has been really draining on us, 32 C or 90F deg and 80% humidity. Now rain and heavy T storms. The weather has gone nuts!!
Glad to hear, you are good there! Yes, the weather has gone crazy this year - in Europe we got flooded since weeks and you are baked on the other side! Hope this will be not normality in future... Keep safe and take care, Geoff! 

 
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We always have 80%+ humidity. Has been hot here but that is normal. I head to Charlotte tomorrow will be 10 deg. hotter than here for car show.
Enjoy the sweat!

We are currently down to 72f with a cool north wind and that can F off any time it likes!

 
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Sorry I have not replied this week.  Really busy.

I have never thought about having to calibrate the sending unit float arm,  and I think I will pass on that activity.  The tilt the car idea sounds great,  I am able to band aid my current unit enough to see that I am between 1/4 and 1/8 tank, so I will look to switch senders soon.

I can’t win on the exhaust.  Finally got into a exhaust shop that does custom and OEM exhaust and has a top notch reputation.  I have never seen another Mach 1 with the tips so poorly aligned with the valance.  Back to square 1.

kcmash

 

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Nice article, and if I could find the Duraspark for the $69 in the article I would do it.  I am finding $260 for just the Dizzy that needs recurve.
I spoke to scotty last week, he gets $249 for the recurved distributor for our engines which includes the rebuilt distributor 

 
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Sorry I have not replied this week.  Really busy.

I have never thought about having to calibrate the sending unit float arm,  and I think I will pass on that activity.  The tilt the car idea sounds great,  I am able to band aid my current unit enough to see that I am between 1/4 and 1/8 tank, so I will look to switch senders soon.

I can’t win on the exhaust.  Finally got into a exhaust shop that does custom and OEM exhaust and has a top notch reputation.  I have never seen another Mach 1 with the tips so poorly aligned with the valance.  Back to square 1.

kcmash
In your case, the problem will be knowing when your tank is down to a true 1/4 or 5 US gallons. I guess that if you can syphon it to almost totally empty, a small amount remaining won't make a huge difference. Beside, if you set your gauge to read a 1/4 and you actually have 6 gallons, it would be like having a "reserve".  Better more than less eh!

On the exhaust tips, that sucks. No pride in the work done anymore it seems.

 
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Ok I did the sending unit today.  See the pics with the quality differences between the Ford unit and the Taiwan unit.

Taiwan, the ground pin is poorly designed and broke easily.  The Ford unit is bolted through the header

Taiwan unit has no insulator around the pins for the harness boot to seal too.  Therefore all the harness related stresses go directly to the pins on the Taiwan unit.

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D74FFE09-740C-4370-B08F-8C9D7CD019A2.jpeg

 
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OK Team,  Still working issues with Vibration and the exhaust smoke.

I did re-torque  the intake bolts to see if that made a difference in any vibration/ idle issues.  It seemed o help some, but did not stop the smoke from the exhaust when warm.

So today I pulled the drivers side plugs since the smoke is coming from he drivers side.  #6 was oily, the others looked great.  I checked compression in 6 and 7 so far and they are both consistent at 180 PSI.

I have NOT done a cylinder Leak down test, and am unsure how to do that, but the good news is it appears I have isolated the issue to #6.

So here are my questions:

1) Vibration and leaks can come from a fouled plug, and from a vacuum leak.  If the Turkey pan did not seal properly, could I be sucking oil from below the pan?

2) If my Boss Valve covers do no have drip fingers, could that be causing an issue with burning oil?

3) Should I pull the valve cover to inspect seals or go with a new intake seal.  I used the brush on copper gasket seal when putting he last turkey pan down.  With the torque being low the other day, I could have lost the seal when it got hot.

Thoughts please!

’kcmash

 
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