Drivers door panel

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mpbsr

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Any special tool needed to remove the drivers side door panel?

 

Austin Vert

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Hi MP,

I assume you're talking about the door card trim, so................

I bought and have been using the Eastwood door trim clip remover, and have found it to be excellent in getting the original wire clips off without damageing anything. (It's the tool on the left in the pic.)

Reference - http://www.cjponyparts.com/eastwood-3pc-trim-removal-set-1964-2004/p/TRS/

Greg.:)

 
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You didn't say if you have deluxe or standard panels or power windows and racing mirrors.

As stated by another member you need one of the trim removing tools or you can use a putty knife. Just go slow and be sure you are under the clip when you pry.

There is a screw behind the handle to open the door on the deluxe panels and there are two screws going through the arm rest on the standard. The standard also has the metal trim at the top you need to remove. I have seen people add screws that were not factory so look for them. If you have the mirrors there is a metal piece on the back side of the door panel that allows you to fasten the adjuster to the panel. Make sure you do not loose it and have in place when you go back together or the adjuster will not work. You will have to make you a spanner screw driver to get the nut off the mirror adjuster. Of course you have to pull the inside door handle and window crank Phillips screws in both.

Now if you have power windows do not just start trying to pry off the chrome trim. In the 71 & 72 there are spring clips on each end of the bezel that you have to spring back with a screw driver. Be careful if you break them they are not available. The 73 has screws and is much easier to remove but also has some spring clips on the bezel.

When you get the panel off there should be a vapor barrier on the metal if not you can order repo or make some from plastic. This helps the inside door panel not absorb water from the outside. It is also a good time to get in there and clean some of the dried lube off the window guides, rollers and cranks. You will be amazed how much better they work after a good lube job. The old white grease is old technology and I have found that the Lucas Oil Prod. Red "N" Tacky #2 is a much better grease. I also has an anti-seize in it. I use it anywhere they had the white grease. You can also take the door latch mech. out clean and lube it if you want to do a bang up job. Be careful with the little clips on the lock rods. Also put some graphite lube in your locks.

I always vacuum any dust, dirt, leaves and trash inside the door and check for any rust starting along the bottom. You can wipe down and put some brushable sealer on to protect it. If you have rust apply one of the rust killing coatings to extend the life.

Just go slow and if any of the clips have pulled out the cardboard you can epoxy back together and let set while you do your other work. If the clips holding the panel are bent try to get them looking right before you reinstall the panel. Just bump with your hand or clean rubber mallet.

It is not a difficult task just take your time and you will have much better windows and the weird noises will go away when the windows go up and down. I should have taken pictures I just did my 73 vert.

David

 

timachone

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You didn't say if you have deluxe or standard panels or power windows and racing mirrors.

As stated by another member you need one of the trim removing tools or you can use a putty knife. Just go slow and be sure you are under the clip when you pry.

There is a screw behind the handle to open the door on the deluxe panels and there are two screws going through the arm rest on the standard. The standard also has the metal trim at the top you need to remove. I have seen people add screws that were not factory so look for them. If you have the mirrors there is a metal piece on the back side of the door panel that allows you to fasten the adjuster to the panel. Make sure you do not loose it and have in place when you go back together or the adjuster will not work. You will have to make you a spanner screw driver to get the nut off the mirror adjuster. Of course you have to pull the inside door handle and window crank Phillips screws in both.

Now if you have power windows do not just start trying to pry off the chrome trim. In the 71 & 72 there are spring clips on each end of the bezel that you have to spring back with a screw driver. Be careful if you break them they are not available. The 73 has screws and is much easier to remove but also has some spring clips on the bezel.

When you get the panel off there should be a vapor barrier on the metal if not you can order repo or make some from plastic. This helps the inside door panel not absorb water from the outside. It is also a good time to get in there and clean some of the dried lube off the window guides, rollers and cranks. You will be amazed how much better they work after a good lube job. The old white grease is old technology and I have found that the Lucas Oil Prod. Red "N" Tacky #2 is a much better grease. I also has an anti-seize in it. I use it anywhere they had the white grease. You can also take the door latch mech. out clean and lube it if you want to do a bang up job. Be careful with the little clips on the lock rods. Also put some graphite lube in your locks.

I always vacuum any dust, dirt, leaves and trash inside the door and check for any rust starting along the bottom. You can wipe down and put some brushable sealer on to protect it. If you have rust apply one of the rust killing coatings to extend the life.

Just go slow and if any of the clips have pulled out the cardboard you can epoxy back together and let set while you do your other work. If the clips holding the panel are bent try to get them looking right before you reinstall the panel. Just bump with your hand or clean rubber mallet.

It is not a difficult task just take your time and you will have much better windows and the weird noises will go away when the windows go up and down. I should have taken pictures I just did my 73 vert.

David
+1

Good and important points - trust David - nothimg to add ::thumb::

 

mpbsr

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I have 73 with power windows but not sure which door skin I have.

Let me explain what I'm trying to do.

My power windows weren't working. It was determined by the shop who was rebuilding my engine that the wiring on the driver power window component was faulty.

They did repair the wiring (No charge) and now the power windows work, but it looks like the power window buttons are a little loose and I need to play with them for the windows to work.

If I take the cover off the power window switch, is there someway I can secure/fix the panel underneath it to where it's not loose without having to take the door panel off?

Even looking at the cover, you can tell that the switches aren't really secured. Or maybe the panel isn't secured properly to the door and that needs to come off and be properly replaced on the door?

So now I need to push the buttons in besides pushing up/down in order to work and the cover is on pretty tight.

Here's a pic.

IMAG0129.jpg

 
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Austin Vert

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I have 73 with power windows but not sure which door skin I have.

Let me explain what I'm trying to do.

My power windows weren't working. It was determined by the shop who was rebuilding my engine that the wiring on the driver power window component was faulty.

They did repair the wiring (No charge) and now the power windows work, but it looks like the power window buttons are a little loose and I need to play with them for the windows to work.

If I take the cover off the power window switch, is there someway I can secure/fix the panel underneath it to where it's not loose without having to take the door panel off?

Even looking at the cover, you can tell that the switches aren't really secured. Or maybe the panel isn't secured properly to the door and that needs to come off and be properly replaced on the door?

So now I need to push the buttons in besides pushing up/down in order to work and the cover is on pretty tight.

Here's a pic.
Hi mp,

OK, lets see if i can help you here. Your pics tell me you have the Deluxe door trims. Would you believe i had my driver's side door completely apart yesterday, because my driver's electric door window was not working.

You should not have to remove your door card /trim panel to rectify your problem. What happens is you first remove the chrome bezel. that comes off with one phillips screw. Then, that should reveal the switch block underneath. The switch block then pulls out, and detaches itself from the plastic mounting base underneath which is attached to the door card itself by clipping into the rectangular door card cutout.

So in your case, if you feel your switches are faulty themselves, all you need to do then is remove the chrome bezel, then remove the switchblock from the plastic mounting base. This proceedure means you won't have to touch or remove the door card at all.

However, if it was a case where the wiring that goes into the plastic mounting base was causing trouble, you then of course would have to remove the door card to remove the plastic mount base from the door card itself to perform any repairs in that regard.

In your case, your switches appear to be dodgy, so here is a link to a company that sells you the whole switchblock with switches. You can also but the switches individually as well for the '73 setup. (see Don at Ohio Mustang). Lastly, check to see how firm and secure the plastic mounting base is attached to the door card . If it's loose or wiggles around on the door card, that's a sure sign of damage done when someone has tried to remove and refit the base in the past.

Well i hope i got all that right, and i hope that helps. In my case, the power window gearing wheel,that connects the motor to the reg mechanism, and the nylon roller wheel that links the glass to the regulator mechanism were both shot. I replaced both items with great success. My motor, switches and wiring were in good working condition, and were not causing any probs.

Reference .................

http://www.switchdoctor.net/ford-mustang-window-switch/ford-mustang-master-power-window-switch-1973-oem/

Greg.:)

 

mpbsr

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I have 73 with power windows but not sure which door skin I have.

Let me explain what I'm trying to do.

My power windows weren't working. It was determined by the shop who was rebuilding my engine that the wiring on the driver power window component was faulty.

They did repair the wiring (No charge) and now the power windows work, but it looks like the power window buttons are a little loose and I need to play with them for the windows to work.

If I take the cover off the power window switch, is there someway I can secure/fix the panel underneath it to where it's not loose without having to take the door panel off?

Even looking at the cover, you can tell that the switches aren't really secured. Or maybe the panel isn't secured properly to the door and that needs to come off and be properly replaced on the door?

So now I need to push the buttons in besides pushing up/down in order to work and the cover is on pretty tight.

Here's a pic.
Hi mp,

OK, lets see if i can help you here. Your pics tell me you have the Deluxe door trims. Would you believe i had my driver's side door completely apart yesterday, because my driver's electric door window was not working.

You should not have to remove your door card /trim panel to rectify your problem. What happens is you first remove the chrome bezel. that comes off with one phillips screw. Then, that should reveal the switch block underneath. The switch block then pulls out, and detaches itself from the plastic mounting base underneath which is attached to the door card itself by clipping into the rectangular door card cutout.

So in your case, if you feel your switches are faulty themselves, all you need to do then is remove the chrome bezel, then remove the switchblock from the plastic mounting base. This proceedure means you won't have to touch or remove the door card at all.

However, if it was a case where the wiring that goes into the plastic mounting base was causing trouble, you then of course would have to remove the door card to remove the plastic mount base from the door card itself to perform any repairs in that regard.

In your case, your switches appear to be dodgy, so here is a link to a company that sells you the whole switchblock with switches. You can also but the switches individually as well for the '73 setup. (see Don at Ohio Mustang). Lastly, check to see how firm and secure the plastic mounting base is attached to the door card . If it's loose or wiggles around on the door card, that's a sure sign of damage done when someone has tried to remove and refit the base in the past.

Well i hope i got all that right, and i hope that helps. In my case, the power window gearing wheel,that connects the motor to the reg mechanism, and the nylon roller wheel that links the glass to the regulator mechanism were both shot. I replaced both items with great success. My motor, switches and wiring were in good working condition, and were not causing any probs.

Reference .................

http://www.switchdoctor.net/ford-mustang-window-switch/ford-mustang-master-power-window-switch-1973-oem/

Greg.:)

Since the switches were working and set up right prior to the windows not working, I suspect that when the shop redid some wiring they screwed up when putting it back. When I get a chance I'll take the chrome plate off again and see how deep I have to go. Right now I need to do same wiggling with the plate/buttons for the windows to work.

Thanks for your help as it's truly appreciated.

 
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