Drivers side floor pan work

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Okay, Okay, I'm a slow learner. I kept the box and I'll check to see if I can get an upgrade. I must say, this thing really heats things up. I almost burned through my work bench practicing.

Unfortunately, being on the Obama handout line going now on 12 months unemployment doesn't do well with the wallet. I have an interview on Tuesday and another one in the works.

Working on this car has always been a time and money thing. When I have the time, I don't have the money. When I have the time, well we stretch where we can.

More news later....
Md..understood $$$ are an issue for most everyone..So u need to go used..I looked on craigs list in MI ann arbor just for the heck of it..I found a nice unit with tank & all for $90.00 one more place to look is at pawn shops..I've gotten some amazing deals on tools & equipment at a few of the pawn shops around here. When ever I need a $$$ piece of equipment I always check the pawn shops...You would be surprised at what you find.

My current welder came from a pawn shop.

 
Here's a quick update on the floorpans. I ordered them back in December and the "mustang supplier" said they are on back order. Once they arrive, I'll write a review of the parts. In the mean time, I finished with the rear seat area.

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The next area is the front part of the floor pan. While still waiting for the sheet metal, I've "Rust Bulletted" the inside of the frame rail before it gets closed up for good.

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Good advice - some of it a bit rough! (although true) In my experience I have welded with all sorts except TIG. Cut my teeth on the ARC learning from my dad who was certified in the U.S. Army in WWII. Gladly step up to industrial MIG latter on - what a difference. About 15 years ago afriend wanted me to build him a camper and purchased a "MIG" that looked exactly like yours - worthless. Put me off of ever buying a small machine. Then about 5 years ago I used a brand named small unit to erplace the floor pans in my son's project - all butt welded. Wow, changed my opinion. I just purchased a Lincoln 110 V and so far have only used flux core (I plan to go to gas eventually). Still, flux core works fine, just a bit dirtier. Helmets - never go back now that I have a electronic unit. In my opinion buy good quality reproduction floor pans is money well spent. I had to make them for my son's F-100 since no one offered them but it is much simpler if they can be purchased. I bought some for my daughter's 67 Ranchero from Classics2Current but they do not follow factory press lines if that is important to you. Thank you for the pictoral updates.

 
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Good advice - some of it a bit rough! (although true) In my experience I have welded with all sorts except TIG. Cut my teeth on the ARC learning from my dad who was certified in the U.S. Army in WWII. Gladly step up to industrial MIG latter on - what a difference. About 15 years ago afriend wanted me to build him a camper and purchased a "MIG" that looked exactly like yours - worthless. Put me off of ever buying a small machine. Then about 5 years ago I used a brand named small unit to erplace the floor pans in my son's project - all butt welded. Wow, changed my opinion. I just purchased a Lincoln 110 V and so far have only used flux core (I plan to go to gas eventually). Still, flux core works fine, just a bit dirtier. Helmets - never go back now that I have a electronic unit. In my opinion buy good quality reproduction floor pans is money well spent. I had to make them for my son's F-100 since no one offered them but it is much simpler if they can be purchased. I bought some for my daughter's 67 Ranchero from Classics2Current but they do not follow factory press lines if that is important to you. Thank you for the pictoral updates.
In over 25 years of doing body work professionaly & being I-car certifiedhttp://www.i-car.com/html_pages/training_programs/welding.shtml I have never seen a flux core welder being used by a competent state of the art shop. Nor have I ever seen any custom car builders using it (It's mig or tig) Nor has I-car http://www.i-car.com/ certified it as an approved repair procedure There has to be a reason for that..flux core has it place around the home for sure..But not for auto body repairs.

 
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Good advice - some of it a bit rough! (although true) In my experience I have welded with all sorts except TIG. Cut my teeth on the ARC learning from my dad who was certified in the U.S. Army in WWII. Gladly step up to industrial MIG latter on - what a difference. About 15 years ago afriend wanted me to build him a camper and purchased a "MIG" that looked exactly like yours - worthless. Put me off of ever buying a small machine. Then about 5 years ago I used a brand named small unit to erplace the floor pans in my son's project - all butt welded. Wow, changed my opinion. I just purchased a Lincoln 110 V and so far have only used flux core (I plan to go to gas eventually). Still, flux core works fine, just a bit dirtier. Helmets - never go back now that I have a electronic unit. In my opinion buy good quality reproduction floor pans is money well spent. I had to make them for my son's F-100 since no one offered them but it is much simpler if they can be purchased. I bought some for my daughter's 67 Ranchero from Classics2Current but they do not follow factory press lines if that is important to you. Thank you for the pictoral updates.
In over 25 years of doing body work professionaly & being I-car certifiedhttp://www.i-car.com/html_pages/training_programs/welding.shtml I have never seen a flux core welder being used by a competent state of the art shop. Nor have I have I ever seen any custom car builders using it (It's mig or tig) Nor has I-car http://www.i-car.com/ certified it as an approved repair procedure There has to be a reason for that..flux core has it place around the home for sure..But not for auto body repairs.
Thanks, guys. Good posts and I appreciate the experience you both bring to the forum. Although different, both of you give a perspective that we all can learn from. Thanks for posting what has worked for you.

Doc

 
Thanks, guys. Good posts and I appreciate the experience you both bring to the forum. Although different, both of you give a perspective that we all can learn from. Thanks for posting what has worked for you.

Doc

Ditto & nicely said Doc !

 
Qcode351mach addresses some good points as to the flux core issue. He is doing a tremendous job on his car and I enjoy keeping up with his post. His addition to what we are all trying to do (bring our cars up to par and some back from the grave) is commendable. There is no doubt he speaks from experience. Well said.

 
I NOTICED ONE THING. SOME HAVE HAD GOOD RESULTS WITH FLUX CORE AND SOME NOT! I HAVE A 110 SNAPON AND DEFINTITLY PREFER GAS, BUT I SOMETIMES DO THINGS IT CANT HANDLE SO I PURCHASED A 230 VOLT 160 AMP, NEW. BUT AS I WAS SETTING IT UP I RAN ACROSS AN INTERESTING THING.. IT SAID THAT IF I WAS GOING TO RUN FLUXCORE SET MY POWER WIRES FOR A POSITIVE GROUND AND A NEGATIVE GROUND FOR GAS. NOW I WANDER IF THAT IS TRUE FOR A 110 WELDER, BUT HAVENT RESEARCHED IT.

 
I have a quite usefull MIG welder that i bought after i sold my first mustang... That ona was a nightmare to restore having NO PROPPER TOOLS to work... I was a designer student back there with neither knowledge nor experience in any kind of car work what so ever...

The first car i restored was then a horrible body patched 1970 coupé with a nice "bondo sculpture" of how the mustang should look like... Back then i´ve never tried to bondo anything either but as a handy artistic kid, i learned quickly and the car ended up looking relatively ok...

IMG_0007.JPG

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After finishing this car.. this bondo sculpture that shinned nice but was a bunch of cr**p... i promissed myself that i would never ever again, was going to work that stupidly... I spent 4 years working in that car and could never use it because it was sooooo bad that problems were overwelming...

I sold it (i know.. poor guy... but i told him everything and sold the car cheap)...

That car ws my school of what shouldn´t do... I used the money i got to buy propper tools.... for example, my 50 - 250 A MIG welder that´s not the best brand in the world but this machine do EVERY welding job i need... I also bought the best helmett with automatic darkener visor i could get...

The MIG costs me like 600 and the helmet like 150... BEST MONEY INVESTED EVER... Even all my friends come to ask me to weld something... i could mount a welding business just with this machine!!!....

Bottom line... I understand Scott when advises... the extra money you invest now in a mig, definitely is going to be saved later...

You´ll probably end up buying a MIG later and redoing all the work you´re now planning to do with the wrong techniques...

I always say that a job well done is the only one you can count on... You do it once and forever...

 
I'm no welder...so, I'm going to pay a welder to do my rear floor pans for $300. I think this is a pretty good deal.

I will send before and after pics.

 
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EVERYONE STARTS SOMEWHERE, AND YOUR PROBABLY GONNA NEED MORE WELDING BEFORE YOUR DONE. KEEP YOUR CHIN UP AND JUST KEEP PLAYING WITH IT, IT'LL GET EASIER, AND I DOUBT IF THERES 5 REAL EXPERTS HERE, SO PLAY WITH IT. MAYBE START WITH ALITTLE THICKER MATERIAL FOR AWHILE.

 
They've arrived. Finally, after ordering them in December the pans made it to the front door.

I like the idea of going to get a pro for the big weld. We have one in our town that everyone goes to. You know the type. He never has to advertise, 'cause it's all word of mouth and that keeps him busy.

In the mean time, I've burned out a rotozip and a dremel on removing the red paint from the OEM fender that I picked up several years ago.

Man is this project taking forever or what?

DSC06888.JPG

 
Maiden, those are 65 -70 floor pans

71-3 doesn't have the holes for bolt thru seat tracks.

Different drain holes

And the ribbing is wrong, you will have to hammer it flat over the frame rail.

Don

 
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