Dropped of 71 at shop

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Ryunker

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 8, 2018
Messages
274
Reaction score
135
Location
Madison South Dakota
My Car
1971 Mach1 351C
[url=https://ibb.co/fF5Ono][img]https://preview.ibb.co/dKMw7o/20180526_110612.jpg[/img][/url]
So there is a restoration body shop in town, we are moving from Northern. il to the metropolis of Madison South Dakota very soon. I really do not desire to take any "in work" projects, but do not want to part with our 71.

The shop has the car,  they evaluated the body, and quoted $10,500 to get the car ready for paint. Aside from the hood, as there are no new ones available to ship.

Few years ago, that would have made me feel insulted, as very little more to do, mainly detail work inside the trunk, quarter seems, and roof joints are the main focus points.

At any rate, bit the bullet and dropping of half of the payment this Monday, scheduled completion is first week in August. I will add photos now and then when visiting the car.

 
I visited yesterday dropping off new fender, trunk lid and mirrors. Car is stripped, and the cleanup on the inside of the quarter panels (the overlap) is really good.

Of course they want more cash to complete the trunk floor interior, how much is still undecided. I plan on photos by the weekend.

 
So they stripped the car and did the trunk stuff, now they put the car in epoxy primer. They say this is correct. Back in the 80's in my body work days there would be no primer before body work was completed. Either times and products have changed or I picked the absolute wrong shop.

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Ditto on that Rktmn.  That is what they did to my wifes 71 mach. 

71 mach epoxy 6-20-21.jpg

 
Yup - primer is good when doing this kind of work.  Prior to block sanding, they will spray a light contrasting color check coat over the primer.  The check coat will be sanded away from the higher spots first, revealing where more high solids primer needs to be applied, more body work needs to be done, or a skim coat of putty needs to be applied, depending on if the check coat can be completely removed before exposing bare metal on another part of the panel.  By the way, this is where most of the money goes for high quality paint jobs.  Don't scrimp here.

 
A lot of people epoxy prime the whole car before any mud work. Not right or wrong. Just how that shop does it. Many different opinions on the subject. But I have found either way to work just fine. 

 
I work at a long established restoration/custom shop in Melbourne fl. We finish prep. bare steel and apply Axalta 2580cr zinc chromate epoxy primer right away to bare steel panels. Besides corrosion protection you also end up encapsulating the body filler when you prime over it. 

 
Now with all the filler and primer on the body should set for several months to let everything shrink up. Then high light and block again to have a perfect job at the end.
BTW there use to be a fantastic restoration shop in South Dakota that charged way less than shops in big cities. Seems like it was in Mitchel S.D..I was by it several times when going west.
You need to keep everyone's hands off of the primer also a cheap car cover is good investment. People have lots of bad things on their hands that paint does not like.

 
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