dropping in new engine

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Jayro

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Ok so about to drop in the new engine. Best to have the headers on and try not hit/damage anything or drop the motor in and then fit the headers?

Whats the best method as a rule?
 

Ron Tanzi

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1972 Ford Mustang Mach 1 bright red, standard black interior,pb,ps
gauge package.rim blow steering wheel,15" magnum 500s,351 C 2bbl running a 4bbl Holley 600,MSD 6a with stock distributor and Pertronix,Comp cam mild grind, The Engine(rebuilt by me in 2002 for the second time the first rebuild I did was stock in 1995) made 305hp and 358 lb ft on the dyno. 9" 2.75 rear end,Global west sub frame connectors,620 front coils.Rear defroster. My parents bought my car brand new the year before I was born. I cherish it like my child.
I adhere to using stock manifolds. But on the other side of that statement I have installed many engines in various cars (it was one part of my job). Are they long tube headers? It makes all the difference in weather you put them on before or after you install the engine.

Ron
 

Jayro

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Hi Ron. Yes they are long headers mate.
 
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I put my 351C in without the long tube headers on, went in very easy. Then installed the headers. Passenger side took about 5 minutes, the driver's side took longer because my headers required a little ding put in one of the runners to fit around the steering gearbox. Good luck.

Tom
 
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I put my 351C in without the long tube headers on, went in very easy. Then installed the headers. Passenger side took about 5 minutes, the driver's side took longer because my headers required a little ding put in one of the runners to fit around the steering gearbox. Good luck.

Tom
I put my 351C in without the long tube headers on, went in very easy. Then installed the headers. Passenger side took about 5 minutes, the driver's side took longer because my headers required a little ding put in one of the runners to fit around the steering gearbox. Good luck.

Tom
 

Ron Tanzi

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gauge package.rim blow steering wheel,15" magnum 500s,351 C 2bbl running a 4bbl Holley 600,MSD 6a with stock distributor and Pertronix,Comp cam mild grind, The Engine(rebuilt by me in 2002 for the second time the first rebuild I did was stock in 1995) made 305hp and 358 lb ft on the dyno. 9" 2.75 rear end,Global west sub frame connectors,620 front coils.Rear defroster. My parents bought my car brand new the year before I was born. I cherish it like my child.
I think Vintageman answered the your question.

Ron
 
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In general, I have always installed the headers after the engine gets bolted in. I don't recall ever doing an install that used shorty headers, but I'd probably consider installing them with the engine.
 

Hemikiller

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It really depends on the headers. I have Hooker Comp 6915. They required zero clearancing, but I'd suggest you install them afterwards. The first time I did them on this car, I had it on cribbing blocks, so it was high enough to get them in without removing the clutch Z-bar. When I installed them a couple weeks ago, I only had the front on a set of ramps, and had to remove the z-bar and get just the right angle to slide them up in. I don't have any experience with other header manufacturers for these cars to share, as all mine have been 4-speeds, and no one else made anything that fit.
 

giantpune

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I dropped mine in with the transmission and long tube headers attached. Radiator was out and hood was removed and sitting on top of the car. All the steering and suspension was still in place It went in very easily.

To add to it, it was done in my back yard, in the dirt. Car was up on ramps and engine stand was rolling on plywood.

If you want to, you can split the difference. Drop the motor in the car without the headers attached. But dont get it all the way installed. Leave the engine on the cherry picker and jack it up several inches and let it swing around. This will make it a lot easier sliding the headers down into place and getting them bolted up. Then when they're on, set the motor down.
 
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Jayco,
Do not try dropping your engine in with headers attached UNLESS you really want to have a bad, bad day. As stated, sliding in from underneath with car high up on good jack stands. OR preposition headers in the engine bay and then seat the engine (my long time preferred method).
I dropped mine in with the transmission and long tube headers attached. Radiator was out and hood was removed and sitting on top of the car. All the steering and suspension was still in place It went in very easily.

To add to it, it was done in my back yard, in the dirt. Car was up on ramps and engine stand was rolling on plywood.
Your God giantpune!
 

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Jayro

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73 mustang baby blue with clevo 351
I dropped mine in with the transmission and long tube headers attached. Radiator was out and hood was removed and sitting on top of the car. All the steering and suspension was still in place It went in very easily.

To add to it, it was done in my back yard, in the dirt. Car was up on ramps and engine stand was rolling on plywood.

If you want to, you can split the difference. Drop the motor in the car without the headers attached. But dont get it all the way installed. Leave the engine on the cherry picker and jack it up several inches and let it swing around. This will make it a lot easier sliding the headers down into place and getting them bolted up. Then when they're on, set the motor down.
That was my plan of easing it in. I like it 👍
 

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