dual exhaust and gas line

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boxgranch

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2021
Messages
115
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21
Location
Near Tampa, FL, 33511
My Car
1972 Base Convertible 302
Pardon my poor search abilities, this is probably answered elsewhere. We are slowly putting my son's 72 back together and are using a repro dual exhaust. I noticed that the driver's side muffler is coming quite close to the gas line as it exits the gas tank, so there is both a rubber flex tube and steel gas lines near where the exhaust pipe will hang. Since this is supposed to duplicate the factory 351 dual exhaust, I would think this is OK, but would appreciate advice. I would hate to see my son and car go up in flames. Since we don't have things together at the moment, no photos or measurements, but I think the pipe will wind up about 2-3 inches from rubber and steel lines.

Thanks in advance!
 
You can tack a heat shield on the pipe to help protect the line or use some exhaust wrap. Shield would be better. See pic - heat shield is made out of a piece of 20 ga steel bent u shape and tacked on the exhaust. Ignore the exhaust wrap in front of it. I was working on the car and burning myself on the pipe so I temporary put the wrap on it.


20210830_105826_resized.jpg
 
Thanks! I was thinking of wrapping the fuel line with some of the reflective heat barrier tubes, I like this idea a lot. It looks like it would be safe enough to get it to an exhaust shop to have them weld something on.
 
They are kind of close from the factory, but as long as they do not touch they should be fine.
 
IF the exhaust tailpipe is shaped and installed correctly as well as the fuel pipe itself, it shouldn't need a heat shield. Mine is at least 2" away, but it's too damn cold in the garage for me to go check the exact distance!
 
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You need to loose the worm hose clamp on that line and replace with a better one.
Good call jscott, I did not spot that. The spring clamps shown in my pic are the recommended ones, but the ones you show are also correct. As you say, as I do, never use gear clamps on fuel lines or most other places for that matter. They are ok for air intake hoses or for temporary use only imo. Not only that, they just look plain tacky!
 
Real gearheads remove everything past the collector pipe, which annoys the neighbors to no end (that's usually good!). Problem solved!
 
Hey Stanglover, which vendor did you purchase your rear stabilizer bar? I purchased one from CJ Pony but it clashed with my exhaust pipe so I couldn't use it.
Mine is from Addco. You need the NEW REVISED version if you need the 7/8" for staggered shocks. Much has been written on this, but with the update, old thread may be harder to find. The only issue I found was I needed to add a longer spacer under the fuel vapor return line bracket. Other than that, I did need to drop one side of the exhaust to get the replacement bar through.
I believe NPD might now have the revised bar in stock, check. I got mine directly from Addco. If you need the thread and pics, let me know I may have it in my files.
 
Good call jscott, I did not spot that. The spring clamps shown in my pic are the recommended ones, but the ones you show are also correct. As you say, as I do, never use gear clamps on fuel lines or most other places for that matter. They are ok for air intake hoses or for temporary use only imo. Not only that, they just look plain tacky!
Me too. I do not/never used worm clamps in any of my "classic cas"r. One of the first things I look for when at a car show as well, they just look cheap.
 
Me too. I do not/never used worm clamps in any of my "classic cas"r. One of the first things I look for when at a car show as well, they just look cheap.
You're right, they are and do look cheap. It's like a sore thumb sticking out at you. I too look for these on cars at shows.
They do have their uses though, like keeping a few in the glove box or tool box as an emergency get-me-home- fix.
 
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