Edelbrock carbs: what does "Ford Kickdown: No" mean?

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My Car
1973 Convertible, 351 4v CJ, C6, Mach 1 Decor options, power: steering, brakes and windows, a/c, Rally Pac gauges, Deluxe interior.
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I'm bailing on my 4300D and looking at the "Edelbrock AVS2 Series Carburetors 1906". '73 351C-4V. Just a cruising car; no racing and I want reliability.

Under the specs it says "Ford Kickdown: No" and I'm not understanding the implications. Is this the transmission downshift? Does no kickdown mean no trans downshift under hard acceleration? If not, what?

This is the one at Summit. Oddly, Summit carbs, well rated, only come in 500, 600 and 750. Seems to me a 650 is the right CFM based on the many, many discussions here I've read through.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1906#overview
 
Before you commit to that platform do you have any buddies that run Holley?
Not that I know of... Were you suggesting they look at my 4300D? I'm bailing because the fuel filter inlet is stripped. I don't see a fix for that.

And if I do go with the Edelbrock, do I need the Edelbrock Hot Idle Solenoid kit?
 
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My question was more of a suggestion that you go with whatever platform your buddies have. For me I went Holley, and I probably have $300 wrapped up in jets, air bleeds, metering blocks, gaskets, accelerator pumps and cams, and squirters. I don’t know squat about Edelbrock carbs, but if you are going down that path find someone who is and has all of the related tuning bits and knowledge for the Edelbrock platform.
 
I believe that description means, if you have a stock Ford that has an automatic, fmx or c6, those trans use a kick down rod, connected to the carb, that when you go to full throttle, it pushes the connect rod to the trans that signals it to downshift, if the specifications are met: trans in higher gear, etc. It exists because if you push the throttle to full, and your trans is in 3rd gear, you need it to downshift or the engine will just bog down. So if you have an auto trans, make sure whatever carb you end up with comes with the provision for the kick down capability.
 
I believe that description means, if you have a stock Ford that has an automatic, fmx or c6, those trans use a kick down rod, connected to the carb, that when you go to full throttle, it pushes the connect rod to the trans that signals it to downshift, if the specifications are met: trans in higher gear, etc. It exists because if you push the throttle to full, and your trans is in 3rd gear, you need it to downshift or the engine will just bog down. So if you have an auto trans, make sure whatever carb you end up with comes with the provision for the kick down capability.

Thx - I know how they work, I was just hoping there was some other kickdown rod they meant, not for the trans. I'm calling the Edelbrock tech team tomorrow.
 
My question was more of a suggestion that you go with whatever platform your buddies have. For me I went Holley, and I probably have $300 wrapped up in jets, air bleeds, metering blocks, gaskets, accelerator pumps and cams, and squirters. I don’t know squat about Edelbrock carbs, but if you are going down that path find someone who is and has all of the related tuning bits and knowledge for the Edelbrock platform.

Good thinking but as it turns out... my buddy that works on his own cars is an Edelbrock fan. That's a plus, even if he's a Chevy guy.
 

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Kick down is necessary - it has nothing to do with cruising, vs. racing. Without it, it won't downshift when you need passing gear or on a hill when you need to downshift. Surely, Edelbrock has a version with a kickdown attachment. I like my Edelbrock carb.
 
Why not install thread insert into that stripped filter hole? It will save the carb.. Much cheaper than replacing the whole carburetor..
 
Edelbrock requires a separate kickdown linkage setup that's, IMO, extremely hokey. It moves the throttle cable out away from the carb another 3/4" or so.

IMO, if you want to go the Edelbrock carb route, get a Lokar cable setup.

My personal preference for these cars is a Summit 600 or 750 depending on your plans for the engine. 600 is plenty for a near-stock 351C-4V

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The kickdown and and throttle arrangement on the Edelbrock is not as straightforward as a Holley. The Edelbrock is wider therefore your stock throttle cable bracket has to modified to line up with the throttle lever. I ran an Edelbrock 1406 when I first went to a 4 barrel. I changed over to a Holley 4160 (which came with a Ford kickdown) #80457 and converted it to 4150 with the secondary meter block kit that Holley sells. I never looked back after. No throttle gaffing needed and just runs better. I sold the 1406 to a friend that has a 67 Polara with a 383 and it works great on that application.

Ron
 
Edelbrock requires a separate kickdown linkage setup that's, IMO, extremely hokey. It moves the throttle cable out away from the carb another 3/4" or so.

IMO, if you want to go the Edelbrock carb route, get a Lokar cable setup.

My personal preference for these cars is a Summit 600 or 750 depending on your plans for the engine. 600 is plenty for a near-stock 351C-4V

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I'm not wedded to Edelbrock but they do get a strong endorsement in other comment threads. I'm glad I asked about the kickdown - it's pointing me in other directions.
 
Why not install thread insert into that stripped filter hole? It will save the carb.. Much cheaper than replacing the whole carburetor..
I understand the idea but I don't have the resources to pull this off. It's only stripped enough to keep from making a secure connection so wouldn't the carb need to be pulled, the inlet expanded then an insert inserted? Who would I talk to about that...?
 
I'm not wedded to Edelbrock but they do get a strong endorsement in other comment threads. I'm glad I asked about the kickdown - it's pointing me in other directions.
Don't get me wrong, I am not disparaging Edelbrock. I know there are many on the forum that run them and are pleased with their performance. The Edelbrock Afb/Avs carbs have their virtues. In my opinion I would either try to repair your 4300 as others have suggested. I know that the 4300s in all their versions are to say the least, a bit temperamental. If the only issue that you have with your 4300 is a stripped out fuel inlet I would try to repair it and keep it. Otherwise go with either the Summit copy of a Holley or an actual Holley 4160/4150 style replacement. Am I correct to assume that you are using an original spread bore manifold?

Ron
 
Are you also going to replace your intake manifold? The carburetor you referenced is a square bore, the manifold that the 4300D is on is a spread bore and will require an adapter to fit a square bore carburetor on it.
 
A 4300 when rebuilt properly and tuned well are fine. I had my original rebuilt last year and was able to keep the car stock, including all original EGR equipment. They are better then some give credit for, but are temperamental at times...
 
Are you also going to replace your intake manifold? The carburetor you referenced is a square bore, the manifold that the 4300D is on is a spread bore and will require an adapter to fit a square bore carburetor on it.
Thanks for that tip. Haven't decided on carb yet.
 
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