Electric Fan Pictures

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Joined
Aug 14, 2014
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Location
Madison, WI
My Car
1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/408C stroker
Running a champion 3 row radiator with shroud and 2 12" spal fans. Worked great for my setup at the time with the Blueprint Engines 347 stroker and afr heads. Motor made around 420-430 hp. Ran a 180 thermostat and 190 Mr. Cool temp switch for one fan. Which one fan worked great but the second I had wired for key on/off power incase I needed more cooling in stopped traffic. In the future i may add a turbo timer to shut the fan off after a period of running. For the time I drove the car never had an issue.
I will say do not follow champion's instructions for fan wiring. They state to run both fans off one relay and amp breaker first drive i did with it wired that way fried the breaker and relay. Even after some time on the phone with them, sent pictures and what not they still were firm on the wiring. But after I changed it as stated above zero issues. Now on to a bigger badder motor and S/C setup.
Which SPAL fans did you chose? the 1522 or 2029?
 
Joined
Aug 8, 2018
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Location
California
My Car
72 Fastback - 351C-4V, Fitech EFI, T56 Magnum 6 Speed
Which SPAL fans did you chose? the 1522 or 2029?
I was running two 1522's and was having a hard time keeping the temp down in traffic on hot days. I replaced one fan with one of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPU-IX-30103202. It's a fair bit bigger and is louder but it works well and I haven't had overheating problems since. The car is loud enough that I can't hear it inside the car but when standing by the front you hear the fan, but it's not overly loud or anything. I may well end up replacing the other one as well at some point just for some added insurance if I ever get around to adding an AC.
 
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Pittsford, NY
My Car
My all time favorite vehicle is our 1969 Shelby GT500
I am very pleased with how I did our 73 Mustangs' dual electric fans. For anyone interested in seeing our vendor and parts list, and how they turned out on our 73 Mustangs, here is a video on how we did our electric fans:



We also added an amber LED array to come on when the fans are energized,, where the LED array is only visible to the driver as they are placed at a driver side underhood location. I really like how that turned out:

 
Joined
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Ross, Ohio
My Car
71 Sportsroof Bright Red.

I am very pleased with how I did our 73 Mustangs' dual electric fans. For anyone interested in seeing our vendor and parts list, and how they turned out on our 73 Mustangs, here is a video on how we did our electric fans:



We also added an amber LED array to come on when the fans are energized,, where the LED array is only visible to the driver as they are placed at a driver side underhood location. I really like how that turned out:


Great job on you install. I like the led idea. Nice to know if your fans are running and when.
 

4kMach1

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Aug 6, 2017
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Location
Orlando Fl
My Car
1972 Mach 1 302
Thanks for the pics and info. Did you have to make any mods when installing yours - looks tight. My plan is to tie into the Snipers efi to control them plus set up a timer so one of them runs about 5 minutes after the engine is shut off. My temps are pushing 210 to 215 while sitting still at a light or in traffic during the hot weather and after turning off the engine they go up to 220 - 225 from the radiated heat. Hotter than I prefer.
I did have to drill new holes on both sides of the lower radiator support brackets to lower them a bit. I believe this could be from the original restoration before I got the car and it wasn't measured properly. It is solid just off a bit. I took a screenshot of the brackets from cj pony and circled where I drilled the holes. Thought I had pictures of them but guess I didn't. 210-215 should technically be fine from what I understand, but cooler is better to an extent. Too cold and it won't run optimally. Seen mine up to 220-230 after shutting it off. I will be using Holley Terminator x max with stealth throttle body pn 550-1015 for injection and fan control.
 

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4kMach1

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Orlando Fl
My Car
1972 Mach 1 302
Looking for electric fan pictures in your engine bay from anyone that is running electric fans.
I did add two led lights for the fans. One for the fan wired to the temp switch and one to the manually switched fan. Getting power from the output side of the corresponding relays. I have a video that is 47 seconds but is too large to upload. Basically just me running the temp fan constant and flipping the switch showing the led coming on and off. But and I'm sure there is a diode or something to stop an issue I had with the leds. But when the fans were off from cool temps while driving at highway the leds would dimmly glow from the fans spinning. As soon as I slowed down they would shut off. Regardless cheap insurance to know the fans were on. At idle you can here them but driving and loud exhaust they were hard to hear.
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
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Location
Cloverdale, CA
My Car
71 429CJ
Not enough initial timing will cause higher than desired temps at idle, this is why I had to switch from mechanical advance only to a vacuum advance magnetic trigger distributor. My bb likes 18 initial and 28 total with vacuum disconnected, then I plug in vacuum advance. The magnetic trigger dizzy with hp-510 box allows start timing to be retarded to desired setting, mine is set to 10 during start. This made a day and night difference in idle temps. Yesterday I drove it on the highway and in stop and go traffic with 104 degrees outside temperature, engine coolant stayed between 179 and 183 with a 180 stat.
I‘m running pictured BeCool factory fit and struggled with engine temps in traffic before getting engine timing figured out. Also, I now have zero run on at engine shut down.
The BeCool rad has an awesome fan shroud that is made with similar looking material to factory 429cj shroud, I’m very happy with it.
Edit: This picture is before I figured out fuel line routing and vacuum advance dizzy.
 

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jmontes

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Nice looking set up. What temp were you running before you switched over or did you do this during an engine build? Also, what engine do you have?
I did this conversion during the re-build. 351C mated to a Tremec 5 speed.
 
Joined
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Ross, Ohio
My Car
71 Sportsroof Bright Red.

Not enough initial timing will cause higher than desired temps at idle, this is why I had to switch from mechanical advance only to a vacuum advance magnetic trigger distributor. My bb likes 18 initial and 28 total with vacuum disconnected, then I plug in vacuum advance. The magnetic trigger dizzy with hp-510 box allows start timing to be retarded to desired setting, mine is set to 10 during start. This made a day and night difference in idle temps. Yesterday I drove it on the highway and in stop and go traffic with 104 degrees outside temperature, engine coolant stayed between 179 and 183 with a 180 stat.
I‘m running pictured BeCool factory fit and struggled with engine temps in traffic before getting engine timing figured out. Also, I now have zero run on at engine shut down.
The BeCool rad has an awesome fan shroud that is made with similar looking material to factory 429cj shroud, I’m very happy with it.
Edit: This picture is before I figured out fuel line routing and vacuum advance dizzy.
Thanks for the input. My timing is 18 btdc. I have a big cam and my idle is set at 950 rpm. I have a Holley Hyperspark distributor and my timing is controlled by the Holley Sniper and I'm running a timing table. See following for update on my issue.
 
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I wanted to follow up with my post and give an update on what’s happening on my end. After reviewing the information everyone provided, I was ready to go with a Derale dual fan set up using my current radiator and give that a try. Right before I was getting ready to place my order, I started reading an article on Summit’s website about fan /shroud location. This caused me to question my decision and I decided to talk to their tech support group first before placing my order.

After a few minutes’ discussion, it was decided that my current fan – shroud set up is wrong. My fan is protruding too far into the shroud and is most likely the cause of my higher temperatures at idle. Although it is moving air it is also causing a lot of turbulence especially at idle. The fan should be about half in/half out the opening of the shroud and mine is currently 2 inches beyond the opening into the shroud. The fan blade currently has a 2” spacer so it was decided to go to a ½” spacer to bring the fan out of the shroud some. Although it will still be in deeper than preferred, he thinks it will help solve my issue. He also mentioned that if I still needed a little more air flow to add a small pusher fan to the front of the radiator instead of replacing everything. See pictures below.

So why do I have this problem to start with -The car has had a 460 installed which is the same block as the 429. The 71 429’s came with a 19” fan blade and a D0OE-8146-D fan shroud to accommodate this bigger blade and its projection. I currently have an 18” blade and a D1ZE-8146-AA shroud which is for a 351. The difference between the blade size and shroud are the main culprits. My radiator is the correct one for a 429 and is 3 rows with 13 fins per inch. I’m going to try the spacer first and see what happens. If it doesn’t work, then I’ll decide what way I’m going to go. The spacer is $30 and stands a good chance of improving things. Pusher fan is $95. I checked into a reproduction shroud, and they run between $100 to $200. The cheaper ones out there have some low reviews saying they deform due to the engine heat. The $200 ones are currently on back order at all the sites that sell them. The 19” fan blade is $65.

The last thing I have done to is to flush my radiator and block again. I had just flushed my cooling system last year with Prestone radiator flush and cleaner. I decided to go a little different route this time. I used Evapo-Rust TC001 Thermocure Coolant System Rust Remover. I will have to say this stuff does work. Following the directions, I took the car out for a nice 2-hour drive. I stopped and had lunch and then drove for another hour. Burnt up about $50 in gas lol. Drained and backed flushed the cooling system for about 10 minutes and then refilled with fresh anti-freeze and distilled water.

The weather has cooled down this past week and I haven’t been able to see if changing the spacer has made any difference. I took the car out for a short drive and it ran tops at about 185. I did leave the engine run at an idle for about 10 minutes and it held at 178 to 180. My thermostat is a 180 so that’s a good sign.

I would like to thank everyone for the pictures and input. A lot of good information was provided by everyone, and some good ideas were shared. I learned a lot and will be utilizing it in the future if the need arises.

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