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Those aftermarket ignitions can provide multiple sparks in one trigger, but not a "hotter" spark, that is the coil.

If you want your factory tach to work with an aftermarket ignition (Not sure about the factory duraspark) you need an MSD Tach adapter, or you need to get your tach converted to modern movement by Rocketman. I chose the Rocketman route!:)

 
He sounded like he really knew what he was talking about

So, Here's my question: Should I go with something like a Mallory or MSD ignition box and Coil, or stick with a normal Ford Duraspark control module & coil?

I want to be sure my Tachometer will work. Can I make my tach work if I go with a high output control box/coil?

Which product(s) offer ease of wiring?
Why doesn't Steve know?

Perhaps you will void his warranty using one setup over another?

 
He suggested the Mallory 6AL box.... I'm just not sure if that is the way I want to go. He said the Duraspark controller is very good but may become questionable around 5,000 rpm and higher. But if I went with the 6AL I would likely limit revs to 5,000 anyway.

 
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He suggested the Mallory 6AL box.... I'm just not sure if that is the way I want to go. He said the Duraspark controller is very good but may become questionable around 5,000 rpm and higher. But if I went with the 6AL I would likely limit revs to 5,000 anyway.
My current plan (as of yesterday, no promises it wont change) is to grab a Duraspark II out of a car at the local pick-a-part yard, run one of the 40,000+V coils, and the Duraspark controller module (I think if you run a Duraspark Dizzy you need to use their controlled) and investigate how to get my factory tach to work with it.

I may just send my Tach in and have it converted so that it'll work more like a modern tach, still on the fence at that point.

Loving all this discussion guys! Keep it up.

 
I have a factory tach, am running Duraspart II, and everything is fine with the tach and the way the car runs. I've taken it to 6k rpms no problem.

 
Sorry for my ignorance but since when are our tachs 6v?? I thought it was +12 V to tach, +12V out of Tach connected to resistor wire connected to coil??
You're right, I think it's 6V by the time it reaches the coil.

Question: I've seen it stated that you want to stay away from Pertronix Ignitor III Electronic Ignition, can anyone tell me why?

 
Michael,

Why work so hard hoping to get your tach to work. Why not just drop in a Pertronix 1, hook up in 5 minutes and your ready to go tach and all? These can be had for $65 new.

Jeff

 
Need some help, I installed a Petronix 1281 electronic ignition on my 73 Mustang 302 and now its running real rough. I tried adjusting timing but still not running smooth. Thinking about changing back to my points, any ideas? One more thing I didnt replace the coil would that mess with the idle?

 
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Did you bypass the resistor wire, not necessary, but recommended for the 1281?

Did you set the gap?

Did you reconnect the small bare ground wire that connects the breaker plate to the distributor body?

 
Did you bypass the resistor wire, not necessary, but recommended for the 1281?

Did you set the gap?

Did you reconnect the small bare ground wire that connects the breaker plate to the distributor body?
When you say the resistor wire is that the one that goes to the positive side of the coil? Also I did set the gap using the included plastic gap piece that came in the box. Should I change it?

 
Idem dito. P1 is on the 73 for +-30 years.

Plug & play, simple and durable. Never failed.

It works flawless with an EFI (sniper) too. No tach probs either.

On the Holley forum some have reported issues with the P3.

Some alternatives might be just as good or better but as it does the job pretty well, never tried another one.

Already have one set for my 429.

The only thing I needed to do at some point, (there were not so many applications/variations back then).

is to buy a spacer for the magnet when I went for a mallory dist on the 351.

 
I changed the gap and its running better but still not smooth. Any videos out there on setting timing? I feel that may be the reason for the car idle.

 
The resistor wire runs from a connector under the dash to a connector under the hood, and is pink in color. It connects to the wire that is connected to your coil at that connector under the hood.

Setting the gap with the plastic gauge is the accurate way to do it, and should not need any further adjustments.

How about the bare ground wire, inside of the distributor? is that connected? it must be for the Pertronix to function properly.

This should help you with timing your engine:

https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/fordignition/

 
Thank you, I attached the ground wire, running better but a little rough when idling

 
I switched over to a Pertronix II with matching coil and wires on my '71 M code. Before the conversion I had some trouble with the car turning over. After the switch my car turns over on the first crank every time, I did open the gap a bit and it seems to run much happier. Myy tach still works fine. I have read the III can give you trouble with the tach. I like the hidden aspect of it as I am a big fan of stock looking but not stock performance ?

 
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