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Engine, Transmission, Drive Line, Etc
Engine running crummy
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<blockquote data-quote="jpaz" data-source="post: 352925" data-attributes="member: 2971"><p>LHaving some issues with my newly rebuilt engine. I have a 72 Mach 1 completely rebuilt earlier this year. 351 Cleveland .040 over forged pistons, 10.3:1 cast iron closed chamber heads, Crane Gold roller rockers, Crower flat tappet cam 292/302 with .512/.538 lift, so nothing crazy. Carb is a Quick Fuel HR735 and I have a Blue Thunder aluminum intake. Transmission is a C6 with a trans go shift kit and the converter is 2500 stall. 3.50 Truetrac out back and I have 15 inch wheels. Had been running really great, would break tires loose with no problems till a couple weeks ago. It started missing and I heard it pinging a little. Also seems to be running rich. It was really spitting a lot of water from the tail pipes when warming up so I thought I had some water in my tank. I put fuel stabilizer in and that helped out with spitting unburnt fuel out but it’s still not running good. Thought maybe I got some bad gas so I got more 93 and put some octane booster in, still running lousy.</p><p></p><p>I checked the plugs and I had 5 of them carbon fouled and 3 looked good. I then removed the distributor cap and discovered it had 3 small cracks and one the plug wires wasn’t plugged into the cap very well. I thought for sure that was the problem but nope! It’s still running bad and I even put new plugs in when I changed the cap and rotor. I have made sure that the firing order is correct and all the wires are plugged in the cap and on the plugs. I thought the coil could be going bad but it checked out good.</p><p></p><p>Next I checked the timing and discovered it was at 22* advanced! Holy crap, no wonder I thought, it must have been loose and moved. I could move it, but the bolt wasn’t that tight so I still thought maybe it could have moved. I reset the timing to 15*BTC, this is where it was before I had problems, but it is still running really bad seems like it gets worse and worse. The shop that rebuilt the engine told me they set the timing at 15. Anyway, it starts easy and I can rev it up but when under a load it sputters and pops, sometimes when I turn it off it diesels.</p><p></p><p> I must have a carburetor issue. I did check the fuel level in the site glass and it’s correct, but it does look like there’s some green crap on the brass floats. I also noticed that the fuel was pretty much gone from the site glass today and I had it running last night. Is that normal for it to leak down that much overnight? I haven’t noticed any gas in the oil. Could I have a sticky float or maybe a plugged air bleed? Thanks for reading and any help would be appreciated!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jpaz, post: 352925, member: 2971"] LHaving some issues with my newly rebuilt engine. I have a 72 Mach 1 completely rebuilt earlier this year. 351 Cleveland .040 over forged pistons, 10.3:1 cast iron closed chamber heads, Crane Gold roller rockers, Crower flat tappet cam 292/302 with .512/.538 lift, so nothing crazy. Carb is a Quick Fuel HR735 and I have a Blue Thunder aluminum intake. Transmission is a C6 with a trans go shift kit and the converter is 2500 stall. 3.50 Truetrac out back and I have 15 inch wheels. Had been running really great, would break tires loose with no problems till a couple weeks ago. It started missing and I heard it pinging a little. Also seems to be running rich. It was really spitting a lot of water from the tail pipes when warming up so I thought I had some water in my tank. I put fuel stabilizer in and that helped out with spitting unburnt fuel out but it’s still not running good. Thought maybe I got some bad gas so I got more 93 and put some octane booster in, still running lousy. I checked the plugs and I had 5 of them carbon fouled and 3 looked good. I then removed the distributor cap and discovered it had 3 small cracks and one the plug wires wasn’t plugged into the cap very well. I thought for sure that was the problem but nope! It’s still running bad and I even put new plugs in when I changed the cap and rotor. I have made sure that the firing order is correct and all the wires are plugged in the cap and on the plugs. I thought the coil could be going bad but it checked out good. Next I checked the timing and discovered it was at 22* advanced! Holy crap, no wonder I thought, it must have been loose and moved. I could move it, but the bolt wasn’t that tight so I still thought maybe it could have moved. I reset the timing to 15*BTC, this is where it was before I had problems, but it is still running really bad seems like it gets worse and worse. The shop that rebuilt the engine told me they set the timing at 15. Anyway, it starts easy and I can rev it up but when under a load it sputters and pops, sometimes when I turn it off it diesels. I must have a carburetor issue. I did check the fuel level in the site glass and it’s correct, but it does look like there’s some green crap on the brass floats. I also noticed that the fuel was pretty much gone from the site glass today and I had it running last night. Is that normal for it to leak down that much overnight? I haven’t noticed any gas in the oil. Could I have a sticky float or maybe a plugged air bleed? Thanks for reading and any help would be appreciated! [/QUOTE]
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