griffbl
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2012
- Messages
- 185
- Reaction score
- 9
- Location
- dallas
- My Car
- 1972 Mustang Mach 1
2014 Ford F150
2018 Porsche Panamera
[url=https://ibb.co/i2uhXQ][img]https://preview.ibb.co/h0A0K5/815f.jpg[/img][/url]
My H code mach 1 felt a little doggy to me when she arrived last month. I have been working on little things here and there, like the correct inner fender battery bracket, adjusting the kick down rod for the FMX, getting the right exhaust tips on it, etc. The engine was NOT missing, not smoking, started right up, etc. I suspected engine timing was way off, as the ignition, plugs and wires seem fine, ignition is a petronix unit in which also seems fine, and, again, I did not see any black or white smoke, and it idles smoothly....but power felt way down. Tried to backfire through the carb on me once under acceleration. So, I got out my timing light, and the timing indicator showed timing to be very close to TDC. Too me, that seems very retarded! I have always timed kind of by ear, by adding advance and then simply backing off a bit when you hear any signs on knocking or poinging. So I dialed it up to 12 Degrees BTDC and the car seemed to wake up a LOT. Laid a long black scratch on the hot pavement. The car felt MUCH better. NO pinging, or signs of too much advance. Starter did not act burdened at all. Honestly, I may try another couple of degrees more of advance up to 14 or so. I am running 93 octane gas, and car is bone stock, save for dual exhaust. I look and from what I can see, Ford recommended 6 Degrees BTDC. So first question is is as to ignition timing:
1) Is 12-14 degrees BTDC ok in your experience? 6 sounds crazy low to me!
Well, So I try to get her to idle and I immediately discover that idle speed is above the initial engagement of the curb idle screw. I back off the solenoid enough so that it does not interfere any so as to remove that as even a potential issue for now. Idle speed is probably 750-775 when she comes off of the choke / high idle. Not super high, but too high if you do not even need to engage the curb idle screw for sure.
I start checking my reference sources, and I see a few things not quite right on my 2150 Carb...I notice that the accelerator pump rod is supposed to be at the inboard vs. outboard position near the pump, so I change that. I also see that the other end of the accelerator pump rod near the linkage is supposed to be in position #3, and it was set up on my car in hole #2, so I change that to position #3 also. Then I notice the choke is WAY out of adjustment (see photo). SO I change that also to one position rich, as the shop manual says.
Question Number 2: 2)Any suggestions for problems that might be making her idle high?
None of these things affect idle, as I would expect. But the car has another annoying carburetor issue (the carb is correct for this car, and looks like a freshly re-built unit) that has been plaguing me: The throttle hangs up on fairly consistently, and sticks at a high idle type setting, or sometimes a bit higher. It also returns to idle with another throttle tap. I did have the A/T kick down rod adjusted (it now works properly, and this problem existed before that work was done and persists after. I posted a pic below, and there is a small spring which is present but I do not know if it belongs. I see several holes where a spring could be placed, but I am suspicious it is needed, or at the very least correct.
So question number three is: 3) IS this little spring supposed to be there at all?
I had purchased a new throttle cable, but when the problem went away before I had a chance to install it, I returned it to the shop. My existing cable LOOKS ok, and I put a little spray silicone on the spring assembly. I see no interference from anything like a floor mat, or anything else interfering with the linkage. The pedal seems fine, etc. Cable LOOKS ok, but I know if the return spring is losing strength that is not anything that will look any different to my untrained eye. I thought it might be something out of adjustment on the high idle cam etc., but I really did not want to get into that unless I had to.
For now, question 4 is: 4) Should I replace the throttle cable, or is there anything else I can check for a sticking throttle? IS there a chance the existing throttle cable return spring simply does not have the energy to return the throttle to idle on occasion?
1) Is 12-14 degrees BTDC ok in your experience? 6 sounds crazy low to me!
Well, So I try to get her to idle and I immediately discover that idle speed is above the initial engagement of the curb idle screw. I back off the solenoid enough so that it does not interfere any so as to remove that as even a potential issue for now. Idle speed is probably 750-775 when she comes off of the choke / high idle. Not super high, but too high if you do not even need to engage the curb idle screw for sure.
I start checking my reference sources, and I see a few things not quite right on my 2150 Carb...I notice that the accelerator pump rod is supposed to be at the inboard vs. outboard position near the pump, so I change that. I also see that the other end of the accelerator pump rod near the linkage is supposed to be in position #3, and it was set up on my car in hole #2, so I change that to position #3 also. Then I notice the choke is WAY out of adjustment (see photo). SO I change that also to one position rich, as the shop manual says.
Question Number 2: 2)Any suggestions for problems that might be making her idle high?
None of these things affect idle, as I would expect. But the car has another annoying carburetor issue (the carb is correct for this car, and looks like a freshly re-built unit) that has been plaguing me: The throttle hangs up on fairly consistently, and sticks at a high idle type setting, or sometimes a bit higher. It also returns to idle with another throttle tap. I did have the A/T kick down rod adjusted (it now works properly, and this problem existed before that work was done and persists after. I posted a pic below, and there is a small spring which is present but I do not know if it belongs. I see several holes where a spring could be placed, but I am suspicious it is needed, or at the very least correct.
So question number three is: 3) IS this little spring supposed to be there at all?
I had purchased a new throttle cable, but when the problem went away before I had a chance to install it, I returned it to the shop. My existing cable LOOKS ok, and I put a little spray silicone on the spring assembly. I see no interference from anything like a floor mat, or anything else interfering with the linkage. The pedal seems fine, etc. Cable LOOKS ok, but I know if the return spring is losing strength that is not anything that will look any different to my untrained eye. I thought it might be something out of adjustment on the high idle cam etc., but I really did not want to get into that unless I had to.
For now, question 4 is: 4) Should I replace the throttle cable, or is there anything else I can check for a sticking throttle? IS there a chance the existing throttle cable return spring simply does not have the energy to return the throttle to idle on occasion?
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