first startup ignition problem

[c9zx]

Have you used the switch alignment procedure shown in the Ford shop manual? You did change the switch on top of the column under the dash, not lock, right? Chuck

 

[judge]

If I'm following properly your engine shuts off when in run position. This question applies to that issue. The point side of the coil is part of the grounded side. But at least you have the 12 volts on the + side. Let's be clear though. Are you saying that you turn the key to run, let go of it, and while not touching the key that you have 12 volts from the (red on ignition coil +, and the black meter lead on battery negative(-).??

From your first comment. It seems that the starter continued to run after it's energized.? Is that part functioning OK now.

 

[Mikes73]

Have you tried starting it with 12 volts for the coil hooked directly to the battery? It almost sounds like you have a short in the red/green wire that supplies voltage for the coil in the run position.

 

[87fox72mach]

I changed the ignition switch on tip of column multiple times. It seems to be in right position.

I ran direct from battery to positive coil. Now when I crank I have no spark at all at plugs. I did before. Did I fry the coil?


Yes before when I would crank engine. Keeping they key turned all the way forward engine would run with starter staying spinning. As soon as the key switch sprung back the car died. I checked with volt meter with key just in run position no power was at positive terminal.


Judge I never had any power at posting side of ignition coil with key on run.


My engine feed harness is brand new. Red green wore goes to positive side coil. The other wire goes to temp sensor

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

As I said earlier Here's a typical diagram of the period

This is the way it would have been wired stock.



Do you have your distributor wiring instructions, or have you pulled them up online?

12 volts (positive to positive) to the coil for a short period of time shouldn't hurt the coil.

if you look at the quick disconnect you can see how it being unplugged would cause your problem.

 

[87fox72mach]

Where us the quick disconnect located on my car. The engine harness I'd plugged in correctly. Mid life re did ny wiring. And I did the little checks before start to make sure there is no shorts. I'm just wondering y now I don't have spark at plugs.

 

[judge]

By supplying 12 volts to the coil and some plugs are firing, we are getting somewhere. If some fire and some don't. I'd suspect distributor cap or plug wires loose.

Your main problem still exist though, that is the lack of 12 volts coming from the ignition switch. I believe the switch is adjustable-in that it slides forward and backward on the column. Here is what I would do. Put the red meter lead on coil +, put black on battery negative, loosen switch mounting screws, turn switch to run, slide the switch until you see twelve volts show up on meter, then secure the switch without moving it. If the twelve volts never shows. Respond back. We'll have to check wires.

,

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

i have the impression he just changed the lock cylinder, not the actual ignition switch

 

[87fox72mach]

Is it a problem that I'm only getting 6 volts from coil when cranking. Before I did the 12 volt jumper to coil I had good visible spark. I now have no spark with everything hooked up the way it was before. I know the difference between luck cylinder and ignition switch. I replaced the right one. I will confirm placement if it again today. My dad tested the coil and says the resistance on it is out of spec. I'm thinking after I did the jumper wire to it I fried it?

 

[87fox72mach]

Ok so I collected my thoughts. This morning I set up the ignition switch with they key in lock position and ignition switch I'm lock position. So that is correct. Still when key is in run position no power at cool positive. So I probed connection at plug at firewall that connects the engine harness . The corresponding terminal to the green red coil wire at the plug has no power on engine bay harness side. So my issue has to be somewhere before the new engine feed harness. Could headlight grounds not being hooked up have something to do with it?

 

[judge]

No. Headlight grounds would not make any difference. I'd follow the positive coil wire back to the switch. Probe the wire along the way, even with your harness work its still possible to have a poor connection. The more likely problem now I think is a wire connector not made at all or a block connection not allowing current to flow stepping through it from coil back will sort it out.

 

[87fox72mach]

ok. update I plugged my tach in even tho not installed. I NOW HAVE 12 VOLTS AT COIL WHEN KEY IS IN RUN POSITION. HOWEVER IM STILL NOT GETTING ANY SPARK AT ALL EVEN WHEN I GROUND PLUG WIRE OUT OF COIL. could have ai fried the coil somehow in running 12 volts to it?

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

did you hook it up backwards at some point? Otherwise not likely. But it could still be bad.

 

[Don C]

The negative side of the coil goes to the points. Are the points adjusted and do they open and close when you crank the engine? Is the little ground strap connected from the points to the distributor body? It's also possible the condenser is shorted out.

This link is a good primer on how ignition systems operate:

http://www.carparts.com/classroom/ignition.htm

 

[87fox72mach]

I don't have points. I have a mallory unilite distributor. And a mallory canister coil. As far as I know I never changed the wiring. Just put a little jumper on the positive side.

 

[Mikes73]

Are you running a ballast resistor with the unilite? they don't like full battery voltage from past experiences. I like my duraspark set up much better. I have a feeling your distributor may be the root of your problems.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I found a diagram for a unilite



Perhaps this will help you identify whether the conversion wiring is correct.

 

[judge]

I use a timing light to check for spark. I move it from wire to wire. If you have spark on some, you are getting someware. I believe it narrows it down your distributor cap, wires, or plugs. Cap check first.

 

[87fox72mach]

The mallory coil I have has balast resistor built in. I called the tech line. My dad tested the coil and the resistance on it isn't right. Thinking it's bad. New one on way

 

[87fox72mach]

ok got my new coil hooked it all up. i get power at coil with key in run position. but i have no spark coming out of coil ????? test light lights up for both terminals of coil so i have juice. but no spark out of coil at all?? could it be possible theres a bad fusible link somehwere?