Ford explorer 8.8 rear end swap into a 71

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Las Vegas, NV
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White 1971 Mach 1
I am seriously considering doing this swap soon and wanted to compile all the information out there into one thread. If i pull the trigger on this I will make this into a "how-to" thread as I do the swap. I found a 96 explorer in the junkyard with the 3.73 limited slip and only 100K on the odometer so seriously tempted to go get it for $250. Just need a pick up truck and a friend 🤠

This is the best thread out there that I can find about the swap:
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/8-8-rear-end-in-71-mustang.1188868/

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.shtml


The current thought is to use an adapter on one side to get the correct length as opposed to pulling the axle tube and swapping axles.

For anyone who has done this, I will take any tips, tricks, or advice from your swap!
 
I'd take a look at the rear end from an Explorer Sport-Trac. I don't recall if it's all years, but I thin the width is very close to the rear end that came in our cars. That's what I did and I know a couple other people here (@tony-muscle I think?) have done that swap as well. The only issue there is it's offset so there can be clearance issues at the rear of the tunnel that need to be addressed.

Edited to add a couple tidbits.

Here's the spring perches I used: https://barnes4wd.com/products/anti-wrap-leaf-spring-perch-pair-dana-60-ford-8-8-ford-9

And here's an adapter to convert the parking brakes on the 8.8 to work with the existing cabling. These worked great for me. https://www.theflopshopoffroad.com/products/ford-8-8-swap-e-brake-cable-adapters
 
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I did this swap from Sportrac Explorer probably 15+ years ago. No need to swap axles. The width is very close and the pinion offset isn’t too bad. Slight clearancing is required on the tunnel in rear with a small hammer and block of wood. I used the rear piece of the explorer driveshaft on the mustang shaft. I made my own arms for the e brake setup to use stock mustang cables. You will need to cut off spring perch mounts and weld new ones on in correct angle and location. I made the spring u bolt plates to match the stock mustang ones to mount tge shocks to. It’s some work but well worth if you have some fab skills. 3.73 gears, posi, and disc brakes in one shot for couple hundred bucks isn’t bad.
 
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-8-8-inch-rear-axle-history-and-specs/#gsc.tab=0

From what I can tell, the 95-2000 and 2001-2003 sport trac all have the same rear end in them which are all 59.625 inches wide. The 71-73 axles are 61.25 inches wide. My thought would be to offset the axle to center the diff better and use an adapter on the short side.

Thanks for the links above! I am hoping to snag an axle this week if I can find time and a helper.
 
I'd take a look at the rear end from an Explorer Sport-Trac. I don't recall if it's all years, but I thin the width is very close to the rear end that came in our cars. That's what I did and I know a couple other people here (@tony-muscle I think?) have done that swap as well. The only issue there is it's offset so there can be clearance issues at the rear of the tunnel that need to be addressed.

Edited to add a couple tidbits.

Here's the spring perches I used: https://barnes4wd.com/products/anti-wrap-leaf-spring-perch-pair-dana-60-ford-8-8-ford-9

And here's an adapter to convert the parking brakes on the 8.8 to work with the existing cabling. These worked great for me. https://www.theflopshopoffroad.com/products/ford-8-8-swap-e-brake-cable-adapters
Not me. I am still faithful to my 9"
 
https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-8-8-inch-rear-axle-history-and-specs/#gsc.tab=0

From what I can tell, the 95-2000 and 2001-2003 sport trac all have the same rear end in them which are all 59.625 inches wide. The 71-73 axles are 61.25 inches wide. My thought would be to offset the axle to center the diff better and use an adapter on the short side.

Thanks for the links above! I am hoping to snag an axle this week if I can find time and a helper.
I can't find the numbers easily, but the sport trac was wider and within something like 1/2-3/4" of our cars. Obviously don't take my word for it and verify but I see it listed incorrectly all over the place.
 
Well, the deed is done. They got me for $300 out the door because they wanted me to pay for the brakes 🙄

There were no sport tracs at the yard and this unit only has 100K on it so with a 45$, 1.5" adapter, I'm gonna call it good enough for Frankenstein.

Edit: Everything online says the explorer and sport trac rear ends are identical but I would love to see a real world measurement.

I am now putting together a list of parts needed, prices, measurements, and the to do list. Will follow up when I have it all figured out.

And for any naysayers out there: I wish I could have just found a 9", threw it in, and called it a day but I have been looking for over 2 months and nothing has popped up around Las Vegas. The mustang market here is slim pickings. Plus I figure I would still have to pay 5-600 for the rear end, 1000 for the gears and trac lok, and another 150-200 for seals, brakes, and fluid. So I am looking at $1700-ish for a 9" would be my estimate.

I will be curious to see what this comes out to be but I am hoping sub $800 and that will give me disc brakes, the gears I want, limited slip, 31 spline axles. Plus it's fun to fab up this stuff. So here we go!
 
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I will be curious to see what this comes out to be but I am hoping sub $800 and that will give me disc brakes, the gears I want, limited slip, 31 spline axles. Plus it's fun to fab up this stuff. So here we go!
Dont forget to add the price of a new master cylinder, proportioning valve, and the hard lines to connect all the parts. The stock disc/drum components are not meant for 4 wheel discs. It will stop, but it won't feel right. Ask me how I know. :D

Nobody makes a direct swap in disc/disc master cylinder and proportioning valve for our cars. Leed makes some that will bolt up to the firewall and pedal for like $320. They put the proportioning valve in a non-stock location. So there's a new set of lines you need. I see they do sell a kit of lines. No clue if its meant for their master cylinder setup or what.
 
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Make certain your current drum brake Residual Pressure Check Valve is removed when you switch to drum brakes. See the attached file.

This was borrowed from: https://7173mustangs.com/threads/disc-brake-conversion-options.42598/

Summit explains disc/drum/power/manual master cylinders


Sounds like @turtle5353 may have written all this up before that poofed at some point.

I am hoping that by the time I am finished this thread it will be the comprehensive guide to doing this swap in our cars.
 

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