Getting on track

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CalgaryChris

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I've been on here awhile now. I figured with all the info I've collected I should at least put up a few pics as my car progresses.

It started out like this

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Found water on the passenger floor

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Since the oilfields no longer need me these days...

I've moved on to fixing it

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CalgaryChris

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An unpleasant surprise that I'm looking for advise on

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Not the best pic but thats brazing and a once crunched lower a-pillar. The door fitment was actually pretty good before but there was a pile of mud and I'm wondering if I should be concerned about structural.

 

ponypastor

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1971 Ford Mustang Mach 1, 429 Super Cobra Jet, 4.11, Detroit Locker
Was your Mustang an Alberta car or from somewhere else? I used to live and Pastor in Calgary, and back in the day, only sand was used on the roads in the winter snow and ice storms. Your car looks like it really took a hit from the rust.

 

CalgaryChris

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The car was registered in Washington when I got it from the auction. it still had the licence plate in the trunk.

 

CalgaryChris

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IMG_0290.JPG IMG_0291.JPG IMG_0292.JPG IMG_0293.JPG IMG_0294.JPG A couple quick pics of the Total Control Products front and rear. Will work on getting the pics to load properly when I get a chance. This site has been more than a wealth of information. Thanks again to everyone who contributes. I'm sure as I progress the questions will continue to come
 

Mikes73

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1973 mustang sportsroof - 351c 2v - fmx trans.
You have come a long way, your car is looking great.

 

CalgaryChris

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IMG_0312.JPG IMG_0313.JPG

The rear brakes required drilling the rotor hat lug holes to 17/32 from the 1/2" they come as.

 

Don C

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I looked through the posts in your thread, and see that nobody answered your question about the brazed a pillar. You have nothing to worry about. Before everyone had a wire feed welder that could weld thin sheet metal, and couldn't be easily spot welded with a shop-sized spot welder, brazing was the preferred method. Less heat, less warpage, and with the added benefit of no rust. Properly done, brazing is very strong. It appears that whoever did yours knew what they were doing, the door fit is good and it still looks good after many years of being in use.

By the way, your car is looking great.

 
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CalgaryChris

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Thanks Don. We ended up cutting out the bottom half, beating it out and putting back in. IMG_0322.PNG

 

CalgaryChris

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The switch from auto to manual has begun. Modern driveline clutch pedal. Scott Drake bearing assembly.





 

73pony

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looks great. I like the table too.

 
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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/408C stroker
The switch from auto to manual has begun. Modern driveline clutch pedal. Scott Drake bearing assembly.
In your clutch pedal you may want to screw a hood bumper in the hole where the rubber stop of the pedal is located, similar to the trick shown in the last picture of this article: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/drivetrain/mump-1010-how-to-install-a-five-speed-in-a-1971-to-1973-mustang/

Instead of screwing the bumper to the assembly, I tapped the hole already in the pedal and screwed it in there. Easy mod to to while the pedal is out. The thread is 5/16-18, but double check just in case. The hole is already of the right size so you just have to tap it.

PS: the reason to add the adjustability is so you can keep the clutch pedal at the same height as the brake pedal.

 
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CalgaryChris

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It’s a Griffin direct fit. The link is in the above post. Seems to be a very nice piece.

 
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