Getting on track

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Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
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Location
Calgary AB
My Car
1971 Mach1 351C 4V
I've been on here awhile now. I figured with all the info I've collected I should at least put up a few pics as my car progresses.

It started out like this

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Found water on the passenger floor

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Since the oilfields no longer need me these days...

I've moved on to fixing it

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Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
85
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Location
Calgary AB
My Car
1971 Mach1 351C 4V
An unpleasant surprise that I'm looking for advise on

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Not the best pic but thats brazing and a once crunched lower a-pillar. The door fitment was actually pretty good before but there was a pile of mud and I'm wondering if I should be concerned about structural.

 
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
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Location
St. Petersburg, Florida
My Car
1971 Ford Mustang Mach 1, 429 Super Cobra Jet, 4.11, Detroit Locker
Was your Mustang an Alberta car or from somewhere else? I used to live and Pastor in Calgary, and back in the day, only sand was used on the roads in the winter snow and ice storms. Your car looks like it really took a hit from the rust.

 
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
85
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Location
Calgary AB
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1971 Mach1 351C 4V
IMG_0290.JPG IMG_0291.JPG IMG_0292.JPG IMG_0293.JPG IMG_0294.JPG A couple quick pics of the Total Control Products front and rear. Will work on getting the pics to load properly when I get a chance. This site has been more than a wealth of information. Thanks again to everyone who contributes. I'm sure as I progress the questions will continue to come
 
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
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Location
Springfield, OR
My Car
1971 Mustang Sportroof M code
I looked through the posts in your thread, and see that nobody answered your question about the brazed a pillar. You have nothing to worry about. Before everyone had a wire feed welder that could weld thin sheet metal, and couldn't be easily spot welded with a shop-sized spot welder, brazing was the preferred method. Less heat, less warpage, and with the added benefit of no rust. Properly done, brazing is very strong. It appears that whoever did yours knew what they were doing, the door fit is good and it still looks good after many years of being in use.

By the way, your car is looking great.

 
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Joined
Aug 14, 2014
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Location
Madison, WI
My Car
1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/408C stroker
The switch from auto to manual has begun. Modern driveline clutch pedal. Scott Drake bearing assembly.
In your clutch pedal you may want to screw a hood bumper in the hole where the rubber stop of the pedal is located, similar to the trick shown in the last picture of this article: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/drivetrain/mump-1010-how-to-install-a-five-speed-in-a-1971-to-1973-mustang/

Instead of screwing the bumper to the assembly, I tapped the hole already in the pedal and screwed it in there. Easy mod to to while the pedal is out. The thread is 5/16-18, but double check just in case. The hole is already of the right size so you just have to tap it.

PS: the reason to add the adjustability is so you can keep the clutch pedal at the same height as the brake pedal.

 
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