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Joined
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Ne IOWA
My Car
1973 mustang mach1 clone
FMX auto
393 stroker
KC on the boxes I had rebuilt, 1 was for a 66 Fairlane and the other was for my 71 torino cobra. Best is give them a call and ask. If they don't then powersteering. com sounds like a great option. Just don't try some of the ebay flippers that repaint the box and that's it, and that's after your core is sent in and long gone.

 
Joined
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Blue Springs, MO
My Car
1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
Need some time saving help here!!

Trying to get the steering box out.  I loosened and removed the band clamp bolt at the column and rag joint, then I got the Pittman arm to drag link cotter key and nut removed.  Now I need some help.

There is NO up and down play in my drag link with the front end in the air.  

1) How do I separate the drag link from the pittman arm?  Do I need to just use a pickle fork, or do I need to free the pittman from the box?

2)  Do I need to detach other portions of the steering mechanism?  Tie Rod Ends, idler arm to free this up.

Let me know so I can capitalize on the weekend.

Thanks,

kcmash

 

Hemikiller

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Killingworth, CT
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71 Mach 1
65 coupe
The right method is a pitman arm puller. Places like Advance and Autozone have them to loan.

A couple good whacks with a ball peen hammer on the center link will usually pop the stud loose.

Worst case, pull the two frame bolts on the idler, the two inner tie rod ends and drag the whole thing out from under the car to work on it on the bench.

 
Joined
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SW Ontario
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1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.
Yes to all the above mentioned.

I had no problem separating the pitman from the drag link with the small puller. However, when I tried to pull the pitman the first time I pulled the box for a rebuild, I had to take it to a local garage where they used an impact wrench and professional puller. Not only that, I didn't have a 1 5/16" socket to get the nut off. If this has never been separated, you might need a good compressor and impact wrench.

Now as mine has been in and out a few times, a cheapo puller is all I need. Reinstalling I use an electric impact  to get it snugged up then get the big torque wrench out, 180 ft/lbs is about all I can get. The spec on it is 150-225 ft/lbs.

 
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Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
1,521
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Location
Blue Springs, MO
My Car
1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
Well, here is the latest.

Went to O'Reilly to buy a 1-5/16 wrench to get the damn Pittman arm off along with a Pittman arm puller.  I get home to realize the socket I bought is a 1 inch drive where I only have up to 1/2 inch drive.

OK, I will follow the advice and disconnect a tie rod end from the drag link.  More of a chore than I had hoped for.  Now I move to hammer the drag link off the pittman and am having a tough time getting it to break loose.  Shoulders are hurting from doing this under the car, so I hit it with some PB Blaster while I am taking a break and writing this update.

Do I have to take more off the drag link to get it to free from the pittman?  I only separated the drivers side.  Not the idler or the passenger side.

Thanks!

kcmash

 
Joined
Sep 12, 2015
Messages
6,169
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1,142
Location
SW Ontario
My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.
Well, here is the latest.

Went to O'Reilly to buy a 1-5/16 wrench to get the damn Pittman arm off along with a Pittman arm puller.  I get home to realize the socket I bought is a 1 inch drive where I only have up to 1/2 inch drive.

OK, I will follow the advice and disconnect a tie rod end from the drag link.  More of a chore than I had hoped for.  Now I move to hammer the drag link off the pittman and am having a tough time getting it to break loose.  Shoulders are hurting from doing this under the car, so I hit it with some PB Blaster while I am taking a break and writing this update.

Do I have to take more off the drag link to get it to free from the pittman?  I only separated the drivers side.  Not the idler or the passenger side.

Thanks!

kcmash
Sucks about the socket. More wasted time taking it back. As for the drag link to pitman arm, It shouldn't be that hard to remove it. Are you going to replace your pitman arm or hoping to reuse it? If you can somehow support the drag link so as not to bend it, a BFH on the nut should break it lose.

When I read of the problems others have with jobs like this, it make me realize how fortunate I was finding my car, not a single rusted or seized nut or bolt anywhere. I count my blessings for sure.

Hope you manage to get it done soon.

 
Joined
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Location
Blue Springs, MO
My Car
1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
Ok steering box is out.  The 4 lb. engineers hammer finally got the drag link off the Pittman.

I believe the box is a variable based on the tag being SPA V..  Now the big question is whether to have it converted to quick turn ratio or leave the variable in it.  What do you guys think?







 
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
1,521
Reaction score
113
Location
Blue Springs, MO
My Car
1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
OK, I need a little more help with the carburetor problem as time is of a premium.

As I stated before I tried to make sure the throttle plates on the carb were not dragging on the intake.  I used 2 carb gaskets and stacked them for extra height.  The car will start right up with a prime, but requires fanning of the throttle to keep it going.  I really feel like I created a vacuum leak last time the carb was lifted for adjustment.  Since I really want to make this thing drive able and stop taking the carb off over and over, I want to know the following.

1) Should I go with a 1 piece gasket to avoid vacuum leaks, or is stacking 2 paper gaskets no big deal?

2) If I do go buy another thicker gasket, what is the max height I should go with a 351/ Ram Air car to not put undue stress on the hood plate and ram air seal?

Thanks,

kcmash

 
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