Got tired of bottoming out. Brand new tires are no longer at risk

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Paul M

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73 loaded Q code car w/a 351 4v C6 it came with 2 cars in parts.
I got tired of the car bottoming out. I disposed of the stock flattened out leafs & added these 5 leaf springs from CJ pony. They are the same height as the originals w/ the shackles on the last lowest position. I took it out and there's no more bottoming out without having to jack the car up. No more wheel hop either. I'd rec these 5 leaf springs for 330.00 shipped. I'm trying to make this still appear to be original. Ye, I know leaf springs are something you'd find on a covered wagon. The (36lb) 5 leafs add 10lbs a pc over the (26lb) 3 leaf and 5 lbs a pc over 4 leaf. At least the weight is where you want it. After burning out a few times, I'll avoid having to use traction bars or Cal tracs w/ them. So I may save a lb pr side lmao
 

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Paul M

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My Car
73 loaded Q code car w/a 351 4v C6 it came with 2 cars in parts.
I just did mine a couple of weeks ago because I, personal opinion only) did not like the extended shackles. When back to standard shackles and works great.
Ye the original leafs were flattened completely out with the extended shackles. I also didn't like the look of the extended shackles holding the leaf down for everybody to view. I also install these dry, since I'm paranoid of any chemical from the lubricant having a long-term adverse effect on the rubber/urethane?. Especially since most of the lubricants have a petroleum base & the bushings also probably do.
 
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Paul M

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73 loaded Q code car w/a 351 4v C6 it came with 2 cars in parts.
I put a little white lithium grease on mine. They should out live me anyway.
Ye I'm just paranoid. I'm sure it doesn't matter. It is easy to put the shackle up against it and slap it a couple of times with a mallet. I've seen what time and possible exposure to anything can do to Snap On Tools. The sad part is Snap On doesn't replace their handles, mallets, any plastics etc... Ye Owning Crap On has increased my paranoia.
 

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Hemikiller

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Ye I'm just paranoid. I'm sure it doesn't matter. It is easy to put the shackle up against it and slap it a couple of times with a mallet. I've seen what time and possible exposure to anything can do to Snap On Tools. The sad part is Snap On doesn't replace their handles, mallets, any plastics etc... Ye Owning Crap On has increased my paranoia.

I'd say a call to Snap On corporate would get those tools warrantied. Different company, but Mac warrantied one of my deadblow hammers when it exploded after 24 years of use.
 
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My all time favorite vehicle is our 1969 Shelby GT500
I got tired of the car bottoming out. I disposed of the stock flattened out leafs & added these 5 leaf springs from CJ pony. They are the same height as the shackles on the last lowest position. I took it out and there's no more bottoming out without jacking the car up. No more wheel hop either. I'd rec these 5 leaf springs for 330.00 shipped. I'm trying to make this still appear to be original. Ye I know leaf springs are something you'd find on a covered wagon. The 5 leafs add 10lbs a pc over the 3 leaf and 5 lbs a pc over 4 leaf. At least the weight is where you want it. After burning out a few times, I'll avoid having to use traction bars or Cal tracs w/ them. So I may save a lb pr side lmao
Good to know. We found and a 1973 Mustang Convertible that had been literally barn stored for over 40 years. When we acquired it about 3 years ago it has just under 20,000 original miles on it, and today is has just over 21,000 miles. The prior owner replaced the tires (cracked sidewalls) and the fabric top. With the new tires he installed a set of 14" Magnum 500 wheels - a nice touch. We added a front spoiler to give it a little "edge," and refinished the bottom part of the rear trunk lid vertical surface as the original paint was a little thin at the trunk lock tumbler area, and a tiny bit of corrosion was beginning to invade the otherwise perfect paint condition. Other than that it is in near perfect preserved condition. I say "near perfect" as the rear springs are allowing the back of the vert to bottom out on any fairly significant road surface imperfections. The rear riding height is not bad, no obvious sagging. But, the springs are not able to handle what it should be able to manage without bottoming out. I (also) ordered some replacement springs, but since it is not a huge deal I have not yet installed them. This Spring it is on the To Do list, just because I know it will ride better once the work is done.

Anyway, I appreciate your having posted your experience as it has put a bit of fire under my tail feathers re: getting this done on our vert. So, thank you...
 

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Paul M

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My Car
73 loaded Q code car w/a 351 4v C6 it came with 2 cars in parts.
Being a convertible in that nice of shape with mileage that low. I hope you keep it original as much as possible. I wouldn't put these heavy 5 leafs on it, however, I would go up to 4 leaf. The stock springs seem to leave much to be desired. Geeze you only have 20k, just adding new would be a temporary fix. It was easy to do. Soak everything a day or 2 before and place a jack under the side you play with 1/2 impact the U bolts and outer bolt, I think it was a 11/16 socket inside frame rail and open end on the forward bolt. I kinda chisel & knocked the old rubber out and pushed in the others in w/ some mallet help on the back. The new U bolts were a lil small on the od I used them by tweaking them a lil/ or clean the old ones. Hang them front 1st it seemed to work, then rear with the axle jacked up, then push the axle to line up the dowl pin. The hardest part was cleaning out where the front of the springs go. Mine had to be wire wheeled primed n painted. Ye that convertible is another nest egg, I hope it doesn't fall prey to a texting driver. Here in Tulsa it's drive at your own risk both the roads and the people.
 

Paul M

Well-known member
Joined
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Messages
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53
My Car
73 loaded Q code car w/a 351 4v C6 it came with 2 cars in parts.
Good to know. We found and a 1973 Mustang Convertible that had been literally barn stored for over 40 years. When we acquired it about 3 years ago it has just under 20,000 original miles on it, and today is has just over 21,000 miles. The prior owner replaced the tires (cracked sidewalls) and the fabric top. With the new tires he installed a set of 14" Magnum 500 wheels - a nice touch. We added a front spoiler to give it a little "edge," and refinished the bottom part of the rear trunk lid vertical surface as the original paint was a little thin at the trunk lock tumbler area, and a tiny bit of corrosion was beginning to invade the otherwise perfect paint condition. Other than that it is in near perfect preserved condition. I say "near perfect" as the rear springs are allowing the back of the vert to bottom out on any fairly significant road surface imperfections. The rear riding height is not bad, no obvious sagging. But, the springs are not able to handle what it should be able to manage without bottoming out. I (also) ordered some replacement springs, but since it is not a huge deal I have not yet installed them. This Spring it is on the To Do list, just because I know it will ride better once the work is done.

Anyway, I appreciate your having posted your experience as it has put a bit of fire under my tail feathers re: getting this done on our vert. So, thank you...
Hey thanks. I think you're the one who saved me some time sorting out my electrical problems. I wish I knew about this site when I 1st started this Mustang concoction. I'm going outside to work on a 81 Datsun 280zx. I was surprised they put rear discs and independent rear ends on them. You'd get a kick out of the Jap wiring. No juice to the fuel pump... get this I chased a wire from ign to a relay behind the glovebox (under dash) to the engine compartment to a fusible link & a 2nd relay rt fender to a mass airflow meter frt engine to a oil pressure switch. The damn fuel pump had no voltage 'cause the wire goes through the oil pressure sender switch cannister thing
 
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