Hope everyone is doing well and this year is being good to you all. Here is an update on my project. The last thing I posted was my shock tower cracks welded and reinforced (temporary repair) so I can drive my Mach 1 again. I have installed brand new rotors, calipers, stainless steel tubing and hoses, master cylinder, SSBC proportioning valve/distribution block, rebuilt power booster, upper/lower control arms, strut rod and bushings, coil springs, painted the steering linkage, rebuilt steering box (2.75 lock to lock), voltage regulator, relay. Everything else has been prepped and painted. Many thanks to everyone for the support and advice. Here are some pictures
Thank you. I can't describe the feeling of when it was finally down on it's new shiny wheels and tires after being on jack stands for months and all of the insane work it took to get it there. I know I'm not done but it was a huge step for me.
Just an update. The front is pretty much finished and waiting for the freshly built and dyno'd engine. I am completing the rebuild of the rear end and rear suspension. The rear end is out and has been taken apart. The housing was stripped to metal and given a nice gloss black. I also painted the new third member from Moser (amazing customer service by the way). It is carrying 3.70 gears with a 31 spline true track in a nodular case and aluminum pinion support. Thinking back, I will actually go with a nodular pinion support in the future. The aluminum only serves to save on weight but is bulkier and some argue it is not as strong. I will be stuffing brand new 31 spline Moser axles and bolt on the SSBC standard duty disc brake conversion. For the suspension, I am using 4 1/2 mid eye leaf springs with QA1 non adjustables. Once that is finished I will post pictures as well as the small lessons I learned that might be helpful to others. My next plan is a TKO 600 conversion!
Update for everyone. I have picked up my freshly built engine and I'm putting out 440 hp at 5500 rpm and 408 tq at 4300 rpm with a flat torque curve from 3000-5700 rpm. It has not been installed in the car yet, or the brand new TKO 600 and heres why. The brakes! Everything has been slowed because of the Moser axles and SSBC disc brake conversion. I want to finish everything involving the mechanical parts before the engine and transmission go in so I, hopefully, don't find myself squeezing my big knuckles into very small areas. I finished plumbing the front brake system and the line that goes from the proportioning valve/distribution block to the rear flex line. I installed the new third member from Moser along with the axles.
Lesson #1-Moser axles are thicker than stock. This poses a problem with using a system that is designed around the housing to axle flange spacing. Luckily, the SSBC kit has a sliding caliper, but if you are looking to use a Wilwood brake system, beware.
Along with my axles and bearings, I received Moser wishbone style axle retaining plates.
Lesson #2-SSBC rear disc brake kit uses a split shim/bracket. This design does not allow the use of a wishbone retaining plate because it does not apply support gap on the plate, which aligns and support the split shim design. After installing the parts, the shim bulged at the gap in the plate, which misaligned the shim at the top. Thankfully, I ordered a Currie Enterprises heavy duty (1/4 inch) stock shape retaining plate. Of course to do this I had to press the old bearing off. A favor from friend and a new pair of axles later, I had a pair of axles to install with the proper retaining plate. They were installed and looked good, until I tried to install the parking brake cables.
Prior to installing the kit, I watched the CJ Pony parts installation video on YouTube. They were fortunate to have the kit and cable installed without need for modification. On my '72, that was not the case.
Lesson #3-The cable housing (bracket to bracket distance) was too short as well as the cables. In the video, and in the installation instructions, they recommend the parking cable bracket attach to the REAR lower bolt. In the installation video, the closest hole to the cable attachment point was used. For mine, and most likely everyone else's, the middle attaching point to the lower FRONT bolt works great because it clears the rear bolt and can be aligned with the cable through hole and attaching point much better.
The cable themselves are about four inches to short overall. Considering I just bought brand new stainless cable and didn't have any desire to return them, I found another solution. The bracket that connects the two ball crimped ends had to be made in a longer version. I am having it made out of 1/4 inch stainless. Not only will my cable be stainless, but now the bracket will be the same. As of now, the SSBC kit is pretty much installed and have the new stainless parking brake cables installed and connected as described above, with the only thing missing being the new extension bracket.
If anyone wishes, I will provide pictures when I go home tonight. Once again, I hope someone can find this information helpful. Have a good weekend everyone. I will duplicate the brake info and re-post it in the brake section
Correction on lesson #1, Moser axle BEARINGS are thicker than stock