HELP With Removal Of Broken Wheel Stud

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Machman

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Hi

I have 2 broken studs on the rear passenger side wheel of the car that I want to remove so I can replace them.

I had the same problem on my Ford van years ago but it was on a disk so I was able to bring it to the work bench and hammer the old studs off and pop in some new ones.

I tried hammering the broken studs off the flange but did not want to use too much force to avoid damaging something else but they would not budge with the force I was using.

Is there a small device I can use like a portable press that I can slip around the broken studs and press them off?

I really do not want to hammer and torch the area any ideas on how to remove these?

Thank you in advance for any help

AJ

 
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Hi

I have 2 broken studs on the rear passenger side wheel of the car that I want to remove so I can replace them.

I had the same problem on my Ford van years ago but it was on a disk so I was able to bring it to the work bench and hammer the old studs off and pop in some new ones.

I tried hammering the broken studs off the flange but did not want to use too much force to avoid damaging something else but they would not budge with the force I was using.

Is there a small device I can use like a portable press that I can slip around the broken studs and press them off?

I really do not want to hammer and torch the area any ideas on how to remove these?

Thank you in advance for any help

AJ
They do make a tool but it's big bucks like 200.00 or so ..

Quality c clamp..with a nut on the back side where the opening of the nut is large enough to allow the rear of the stud to pass through..If that doesn't work..It axle removal time & a press..I have heated around the stud on the flange with a propane torch ONLY & that has helped.

 
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It is very easy to just pull the axle. Once the wheel is off pull the drum and 4 nuts on the retainer plate and the axle comes out. If the bearing is stuck in the housing end you can get a loaner axle puller (slide bar) from autozone or o'reilly's. Once it is out you can use a press or a large vice. Just an opinion. Chuck

 

NoLimitssjca

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I had serious problems removing my axle. After 'youtubing' to make sure I wasn't missing a retaining 'something' I coaxed it out with a 5lb sledge. My point is, you can take it out and finish the wheel stud problem.

 

MeZapU

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An air chisel with the spike attachment will make short work of stud removal.

 

Machman

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Hi Everyone and thank you for all your posts and help.

I looked for a couple of large C clamps I had to try to press out the broken studs but upon inspection I saw they were too weak or damaged to do the job.

I decided to try the propane torch and hammer approach that was suggested. After an hour and at the point I was about to give up one came loose, I did a lot of hammering on the other and it finally came loose as well.

I went to the local Pep Boys and got 2 replacement studs for it ( they were slightly different) and had an extra 1mm of collar before the threads started but otherwise the same.

I managed to get them both in with all the groves disappearing within the flange but could not get the base of the studs to rest flush against the inside if flange (it's very very close though and everything is nice and snug) I remember having the exact same problem when I replaced the studs on my Ford van years ago.

The wheel bolted on fine and is perfect again.

I want to thank all who responded with help and advise as the car is almost ready to be back on the road again. All I need to get is a few used parts (grille , rear bumper and front carpet) that I already advertized for in the wants section and she's ready to go.

AJ

 
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Hi Everyone and thank you for all your posts and help.

I looked for a couple of large C clamps I had to try to press out the broken studs but upon inspection I saw they were too weak or damaged to do the job.

I decided to try the propane torch and hammer approach that was suggested. After an hour and at the point I was about to give up one came loose, I did a lot of hammering on the other and it finally came loose as well.

I went to the local Pep Boys and got 2 replacement studs for it ( they were slightly different) and had an extra 1mm of collar before the threads started but otherwise the same.

I managed to get them both in with all the groves disappearing within the flange but could not get the base of the studs to rest flush against the inside if flange (it's very very close though and everything is nice and snug) I remember having the exact same problem when I replaced the studs on my Ford van years ago.

The wheel bolted on fine and is perfect again.

I want to thank all who responded with help and advise as the car is almost ready to be back on the road again. All I need to get is a few used parts (grille , rear bumper and front carpet) that I already advertized for in the wants section and she's ready to go.

AJ
Cool..Heat is your friend ...sometimes:)

 

droptop73

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AJ, keep on tightening the replaced studs. Through driving the car and the stresses involved the studs should continue to move on the knurl until the stud flange contacts the axle flange. They are not completely safe until fully seated.

I'd hate to see you lose a wheel!

 
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Machman

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Thank you for letting me know, right now I'm only backing it up and down the driveway. I won't be driving it until I get the carpet, grille & rear bumper. I will try to rig up a press w/ a better clamp when weather permits.

 

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