Holley 4v 600 CFM throttle cable?

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We had the 302 rebuilt with Edelbrock heads and intake manifold with a Holley 4 v 600 CFM Street Warrior carb which is basically a 4160 from what I can tell. I am working on connecting it to the accelerator pedal which is turning into more trouble than I hoped. The existing throttle cable and bracket from the Autolite 2v don't want to line up. I got this bracket from NPD:


which is the bracket for the 351 70-71 4 v and this cable


which is for 69 V8's with the 4v.

I think I can make this work except for the connection to the accelerator pedal which has a ring connector crimped to the end that attaches to the pedal with a clevis pin. I can't seem to find that connector in a form that looks sturdy enough to last. The guy at the hardware store tried to sell me a crimp on electric connector which probably is far too flimsy.

I also will need a spring to return the throttle. I got something from Holley, the Mr. Gasket 9678 Throttle Return Spring Kit which would be great, but the arm the springs pull from extends farther out than I think wise as it would put a side load on the shaft that holds the throttle plates. The above throttle cable does not have the integrated spring the OEM cable has.

I might be able to fabricate some sort of ugly bracket to reuse the OEM cable, but it will almost kink as it routes to the firewall as it has to be mounted further back to accommodate the Holley.

Any suggestions would be welcome. I did not find this specific problem addressed anywhere, but I might simply not have come up with a good search, so apologies if this has been beaten to death already.
 
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Why didn't you get the correct throttle cable? The length is the same as the one you got, but it has the correct end to connect to the cable. It's normal to have to modify or make a new bracket. The same cable is used for 2 and 4 barrel carburetors and it's common for them having a curve or two in them. If you do come up with an end for the one you have you can connect it to the cable with silver solder.
 
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Same problem here with a Street Demon 750 CFM. The throttle linkage of the carb is way too near the firewall now and the original throttle cable (I have a 351c 4V with a 4 speed) backbows too much. The original clip which attaches to the throttle of the carb is also a few inches too far forward from its pivot point. I cannot use the original bracket and the original cable anymore without too much modifications. So I ended up buying the matching bracket and throttle cable from Lokar which I will have cut to fit. Its a bit pricey but very good quality and so I could save the original parts without cutting them into pieces.
 

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Joined
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Why didn't you get the correct throttle cable? The length is the same as the one you got, but it has the correct end to connect to the cable. It's normal to have to modify or make a new bracket. The same cable is used for 2 and 4 barrel carburetors and it's common for them having a curve or two in them. If you do come up with an end for the one you have you can connect it to the cable with silver solder.

I was hoping to find a bracket that would work, but as timachone, the cable has to be pushed back far enough to make it kink pretty badly. Paast experience with kinked control cables in other applications led me to be leery of doing that. The old cable was working fine with the Autolite. I will look again and think about it.
 
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Same problem here with a Street Demon 750 CFM. The throttle linkage of the carb is way too near the firewall now and the original throttle cable (I have a 351c 4V with a 4 speed) backbows too much. The original clip which attaches to the throttle of the carb is also a few inches too far forward from its pivot point. I cannot use the original bracket and the original cable anymore without too much modifications. So I ended up buying the matching bracket and throttle cable from Lokar which I will have cut to fit. Its a bit pricey but very good quality and so I could save the original parts without cutting them into pieces.

Thanks, I will look to see if Lokar has a solution for the 4160 Holley., but I am pretty sure the bracket I bought will work with a Lokar cable. What is you plan for connecting it to the accelerator pedal arm?
 
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Thanks, I will look to see if Lokar has a solution for the 4160 Holley., but I am pretty sure the bracket I bought will work with a Lokar cable. What is you plan for connecting it to the accelerator pedal arm?
I am sure Lokar has a solution for the Holley, too.
The Lokar throttle cable has a crimped end too, the clevis pin could be removed totally. So it is the same as the original cable. Now you could use the original plastic bushing of your original cable to clip it in your pedal. Or use a small plastic washer. Since I have two original throttle cables I will snip one end off and use the original bushing.
 

Hemikiller

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Don't ever remember having the issues you guys are seeing. I've run 302s and 351Cs for many years with stock throttle cables and brackets. Some pics of the setups I used my car. The 302 was running I believe an old Performer 289 intake. The bracket was a stock one I made work. It was one of those things I always meant to neaten up, but it never gave me any trouble. The 351C is running a Torker, with a stock 4V bracket. I do need to either make a spacer to raise it up 1", or make a taller bracket.

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As you can see from looking at Hemikiller's pictures, the primary (front) throttle plate on a 4-barrel carburetor actually sits further forward than a two-barrel carburetor would. The front-to-rear center of the 302 and 351C engines are in the same location. The 351C engine is only 1/4" longer than the 302. There is no reason why the stock type accelerator cable, with the return springs built in, will not function correctly.
 

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