How do I know cleaning the fuel line is a lost cause?

[Steve McMahan]

I’ve run clear cleaning fluid (paint thinner) through the existing fuel line 3 or 4 times now, and it is still coming out very dirty, dark brownish. When do I call it a day and say it’s a lost cause?

 

[tony-muscle]

I’ve run clear cleaning fluid (paint thinner) through the existing fuel line 3 or 4 times now, and it is still coming out very dirty, dark brownish. When do I call it a day and say it’s a lost cause?

I think you are answering your own question. I have no experience with cleaning it, but given that it is not that hard of a job to change it, I would to be on the safe side and replace it. May save you a few headaches down the road.

 

[Hemikiller]

I wouldn't re-use any of your fuel system components with the EFI conversion you're planning.

 

[Stanglover]

This is what you have in your lines. replace them and your choice, but I suggest SS WITH fuel inject quality ethanol resistant rubber hose as well as CORRECT fuel line fittings, NOT gear clamps!!
Oh, after I took this old line old, it broke in two, rusted almost through.

 

[jpaz]

Rust never sleeps!

 

[MikeGriese]

Have you tried filling the tube, plugging both ends and then letting it sit overnight (or a day or two)? Might help flush things out a bit. But as noted, if it's rust, tank 'em.

 

[sicndhed]

I've plugged one end of the line that's part of a sending unit to hold vinegar inside the line with good results but I wouldn't bother with that method for a long piece of line. I just replaced the main hard line on my Wife's '74 Vette. I bought a roll of SS tube and added a bubble flare at the ends since it's getting a Fitech system with a high pressure pusher pump.

 

[Don C]

That brown is rust.
After the rust once starts in the fuel line there is no way to stop it. It will keep eating away at it.
If you're going to get pre-bent get stainless steel. If you're going to bend it yourself get copper-nickel tubing.

 

[Fabrice]

$20-40 lines + 2 hours work vs $1500+ EFI. No brainer to me!
60 psi is needed for most EFI in the feed line...

 

[Steve McMahan]

Good point, I just paid last months visa and developed a case of the tight-wads

 

[Steve McMahan]

And just as a point of reference, it’s being transformed into the return line, so minimum pressure. Better safe than mad!

 

[Don C]

Even if it's the return line, it'll keep rusting until it rusts through, plus keep flushing rust into your tank.

 

[73Rosco]

If you are really determined to use it, get a rifle cleaning kit (22 or so) and push one of the wire brushes through it. I agree with the rest, for the time and money it is not worth it. It will just plug up your filters with rust scale.

 

[Stanglover]

That brown is rust.
After the rust once starts in the fuel line there is no way to stop it. It will keep eating away at it.
If you're going to get pre-bent get stainless steel. If you're going to bend it yourself get copper-nickel tubing.

That's what I experienced. I bought the pre-bent SS lines, but had to adjust it at the tank end. I posted on this before. It was no big deal but something to watch for.
My advice, don't waste time trying to clean old fuel lines, replace it ALL!! (sender too)

 

[Q1SVT]

Good point, I just paid last months visa and developed a case of the tight-wads

... pay me now or pay me more later lol




Just not fifty year old ones....



SS lines plus a new manufactured [higher carbon steel] fuel tank is what's needed today...

jm2c

Foot note: need to retune motors Air Fuel Ratio's for 10% ethanol gasoline...
14.7 for pure gasoline EQUATES to 14.08 for 10% ethanol gasoline
Same for RICH Lean/ RICH Rich A/F ratio's ;^)


edited: took time to fined my notes --- Spectra Premium Industries' F32B fuel tanks are made in Canada from U.S. Steel's "Ni-Terne" material. The annealed cold-rolled steel sheet is first processed to apply a thin flash coating of electrodeposited nickel, and then it's given a hot-dip lead-tin alloy coating. The nickel base coat gives Ni-Terne steel an extra measure of corrosion resistance compared to U.S. Steel's regular "Terne" steel sheet and also compared to traditional galvanizing, which isn't readily available anymore. It should also be pointed out that the Ni-Terne coating protects both interior and exterior surfaces of the fuel tank from surface corrosion.

Some like the F32B, more but there for the 71-73 Cat's

 

[mrgmhale]

I would suggest using a magnet to see if the brownish gunk you are getting is attracted to it. If so, the gunk has rust (ferrous oxide) in it. In that case, or if the metal fuel line just isn't getting clean, it is time to call it done and order a new metal (SS) fuel line. Also, it may be time to replace the fuel tank. Do not forget the fuel pump and the metal line from the fuel pump up to the carburetor fuel filter, all rubber fuel lines, and the fuel filter. My guiding principle in auto repair related work, and in most of life's financial decisions for that matter, is to invest once, don't buy twice. That tends to keep me out of short term thinking related problems others tend to run into.

 

[Stanglover]

On the fuel tank IMO, there is ONLY one to consider and that is Spectra Premium (made in Canada) tank. Buy from Rock Auto # F32A. It is Terne Coat plated inside and out.
If you're buying a new sender (not for EFI) I'd suggest the Dorman 692-232. Unless it has been changed, the Spectra Premium one listed, was incorrect for our cars.

 

[MustangSally44]

My snowmobile buddy melted a piston. His raceing buddy told him it was because he was buying discount gas. Apparently gas from brand name stations is up to 10% ethonl but gas from the independents can run up to 20%. which I guess must run hotter. As far as your tank, I just lined a motorcycle tank with POR Gas tank sealer and was impressed with the product. Might be a cheap alternative to a new tank

 

[Steve McMahan]

So, thanks for all the helpful inputs. I ordered the replacement line to connect to my new spectra fuel tank .

 

[Stanglover]

Good to hear,
I've shown these pics many times, but on my original tank, there was some sort of padding. I chose to use solid rubber pieces glued on imo, to stop vibration and add a little extra air space.
Please don't forget to buy 3/8" fuel Injector (ethanol resistant) rubber tubing along with correct spring clamps or fuel line clamps, NO gear clamps!!! (Ok, I sound like a broken record on that one.)
Here's a pic or two. Pic with the tube shows a rubber sleeve I chose to add to stop a vibration. Your choice. Correct spring clamps seen.
One more "thing", the vent had a filter in there, but likely has gone by now. I don't recall if there is one available, but this too, was posted about not that long ago. I used a piece of Scotch Brite, but that might not have been the best idea. It's there to help stop fuel go back into the vent line from what I found out as well as stopping dirt getting into the tank.