How should I attach this?

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73 Grande will undergo three phase build process. Phase 1 is to make roadworthy. Phase 2 is interior/exterior restoration. Phase 3 is ++ performance.
Ok, I’m trying to construct a mount for the vapor canister purge valve, which after several test locations, is best attached to the vapor canister itself. The pic below illustrates how I’d like to see the two parts attached:
9312D060-5527-494A-9FC2-1B3FFB0C0FBB.jpeg 31ACB8AE-CBC0-4CEC-81B7-63B8B6EDCE6A.jpeg
So, I would like to weld the two together at the point of contact. As a note, I’m looking for a non stainless steel 1.5” clamp, more like a mild steel, not a worm type. Haven’t found it yet, but I’m sure I will, so the clamp shown is just for illustrations. And, I will be inserting a thin insulator to the inside diameter of the clamp to hold the solenoid in place.

My question is, will this work? Can you offer any prep ideas for the welding? I’m thinking of a small hole in the face of the canister clamp and weld the attaching clamp through that, grinding it as flat as I can after. From what I’ve seen on this forum, some of you are gifted builders. Assuming you agree with my location choice, if not welded, how would you attach? Thanks, Steve.
 
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I am not very good at welding, so as an alternative I would consider using a couple of pop rivets to hold them together.
 
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When I measured any type of fastener as an attached, it created too large of a distortion in the radius of the clamp(s). I believe welded would produce a minimum distortion. I need both resulting radiused surfaces to be free of any protrusions.
 
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Spot weld is the only way you are going to get that to work. Stainless clamp is not going to weld as easily as the mild steel portion of the mounting bracket. I would take the two pieces to a local body shop or fab shop in your area and ask them to pop a quick spot weld where you have a mark. May cost you a few bucks, but alot easier and quicker in my opinion. Talk around to some of the local car guys by you they may have a buddy at a body shop or fab shop that can do it real quick for you.
 
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Spot weld us a great idea. And I have one, at my TX place 😩. If my dad hasn’t sold it yet lol. Yea, I’m not using the SS clamp, just for illustrations. And I worry that a tie-wrap would break, but I did do that to mock it up. Maybe a metal tie-wrap?
 
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As bkdunha said, welding the stainless clamp to the mild steel bracket will be a PITA. Your idea of using a mild steel clamp, in my opinion, is a much better idea.

If you can't find the one you need, you can make one using a strip of 20g mild steel bending a tab to a 90 degree angle on each end, and then wrap it around a suitable cylindrical object to give you the shape. Drill a hole in each of the tabs, add a washer to each side and use a bolt to clamp your solenoid in place. Drilling a 3/16" hole and plug welding it to the existing bracket will then be very straightforward. Just throwing out the idea, as food for thought. I hope it helps.
 

MustangSally44

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I think the hose clamps off an old washing machine pump are mild steel. Might find something at the applience repair shop.
 
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These are all great items. Thank you. So far, no luck in finding someone who could spot-weld it. I did locate a washing machine hose clamp that is wider that the canister bracket. I’m going to have a friend, who is a way better thin metal welder, weld it for me. I’ll post the results.
 
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73 Grande will undergo three phase build process. Phase 1 is to make roadworthy. Phase 2 is interior/exterior restoration. Phase 3 is ++ performance.
Well, I finally figured out the mounting. I got an idea from a friend and ran with it. Project near completion:

C9A18B9F-A2EA-482C-9D59-1ABDED5510C7.jpeg 573956A4-8A07-4415-9873-A38EED847BEE.jpeg B173CD8E-CF8A-40B1-9565-36E3A12FF746.jpeg 8F1EC90F-255A-4335-8506-C7BF51D8484A.jpeg 376EF7D5-5F0C-46D8-B8B6-C108D45A1C6A.jpeg
It may be hard to see, but I’ve mounted the purge valve on the firewall, next to the AC WOT relay. I used this electrical conduit hanger as the mount, primed and painted it. I used a short section of 1” split wire loom tubing as an insulator. I also made an adapter fitting to fit inside the vapor canister by taking a 1” section of 3/8” hose, a 5/16” to 1/4” reducer, and clear silicone to hold and seal it. I also unwrapped the wiring harness on the engine so I could extend the wiring to the firewall; the previous routing to near the core support on the passenger side didn’t give me enough wiring to reach with a smooth path. I think that does it, thanks for all of the ideas. Steve
 
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Great idea with the reducer, I have been searching for the hose to vapor canister for a while now. Thought I had found it at NPD but they have been out of stock. I will be picking up one of the reducers in the morning now, thanks for the pics.

Tom
 
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Are you talking about that small, like 1” aluminum foil tube that attaches to the air cleaner? I remember those things always were crushed at some poin; not one of Fords better ideas 😬.
 
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