Intake Manifold Installation

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Hotstang

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Same for Kawasaki small engine oil. I run 20-50 in all of my lawnmowers and hot rods.
 

Hemikiller

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I run Rotella 15w-40. Diesel oil. Has all the good stuff still in it and it’s cheap.

+1 This is what I'm running in the 429 in my Squire and the old 302 from the Mach.

Shell states the Rotella T4 (conventional) 15W40 and 10W30 both carry 1200ppm of both zinc and phophorous. The T5 and T6 semi and full synthetics are supposedly at approximately the same content levels.
 

Millertime

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Push rods came in, went to replace the one that was bent and I realized what I believe is the lifter was gone. Took the photo below of a couple pieces that were in the corner nearby. Are you able to reinstall these or do you need to buy a new one? If I do need a new one, are they just called lifters and are they difficult to replace?

Thanks.
 

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Hemikiller

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Yes, you can reassemble the lifter, as long as all the parts are present. It simply slides up and out of the bore. I attached a couple snips from the 73 factory shop manual. There are supposedly two types of lifters, which are assembled differently. Yours appear to be type I.

If you decide to buy a replacement, be sure to get a quality lifter from a trusted source, as many lifters today are not hardened properly. IMO, I'd take my chances putting the lifter back together over a replacement.


lifter_cleaning_type1.JPG


lifter_cleaning_type2.JPG
 
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+1 on reusing the lifter, it already has a matching wear pattern for that cam lobe and has already been "work hardened". If the lifter doesn't come out easily it is because a rim of hardened oil and burned fuel products has developed below the lifter bore on the lifter. Because your snap ring is already off you should be able to use the snap ring groove to pull with. Expanding lifter removal tools are available, but they are pricey.
 

Millertime

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Thanks for sending that manual over, everything looked to still be there so I put it all together and back in position. I turned it over a few times after installing the new push rod but it’s the only valve that’s not moving. Any thoughts?
 
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Provided that the lifter is back together properly and there is nothing wrong with the lobe on the cam the lifter needs to pump up with oil. You should have soaked it in oil first before you put it in. You can try pouring some oil on it to help speed it up. You will just need to crank a little until it pumps up. Also, you will need to adjust the valve lash since you had the rocker off.
 
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Everyone may have different experiences with the "turkey pan". My experience has been using them is a PITA and increases the chance of an oil or vacuum leak. I don't use the cork or rubber end seals either. I use engine oil resistant RTV from Dow Corning or Permatex at the end seals. As for oil, I use Amsoil Z-Rod or Valvoline VR-1 in a pinch. The weight of oil used is determined by bearing clearances and severity of engine use. As others have said, a dead lobe, worn guides, or excessive RPM can cause the pushrods to bend. I hope you get it sorted without too much drama. Chuck
 
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