The most important thing reuse the factory fasteners if the are the proper length.(clean, polish and clearcoat or alum paint.) IF you insist on "shiny" bolts make sure they are like factory quality, Grade 8. Trans-dapt, Mr Gasket and others sell chrome or zinc plated junk, they do not take the recommended torque ratings.
I am not familiar with the choke heater tube mount for that intake but if a block off plate is supplied check for proper fastener length where the threads may bottom before actual clamping is reached.
I have always used the factory metal gasket with "ultra-grey" locktite RTV.
I lay those cheesy rubber end seals ( I actually like them) on a thin layer of RTV on the block, add 4 gobs on the ends (head to block joint), lay my metal pan gasket in place after a super thin coating of sealer around the port openings, drop on the intake and tighten the fasteners finger tight. check to make sure the intake is parallel to the blaock surface. Tweak fasteners to pull the intake level and then snug with a wrench to sit overnight.
next day remove intake and ensure pan gasket is seat properly. You may then seal the ports with a touch of RTV only enough to see grooves in your finger prints. Think of sealer as a cellophane wrap, just thick enough to keep your engine fresh, any thicker and you parts are out of tolerance.
My own patented trick is to coat one mating surface with thin grease layer.
I have pulled my intake and valve covers in a parking lot to swap out a bent push rod and reassembled without any sealers and drove for years after, cork and paper gaskets never tear on removal.
(my valve covers use studs and the nuts are always only finger tight, only ever lost one and they never leaked, even after remove/replace many times)
