Intake valley pan, reuse it???

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72 Mach 1, Q code 351CJ, 4 speed.
I pulled the cast iron intake manifold off and am replacing it with an edelbrock intake.  I have noticed that the replacement intake gasket sets do not come with a new lifter valley pan.  Do I reuse the one that was on it?  Do I reuse the pan at all???  The reason I ask whether or not to use the pan is because I have watched several 351c tear down videos and some engines did not have this pan on it when they pulled the stock intakes.

So use it or lose it??  

If I use it do I buy a new one or clean and reuse the one that is in there?

 
Don’t use it or the crappy rubber end gaskets either. Just use The Right Stuff on the ends only. Make sure you put a good 3/8-1/2” bead of it on. Test fit it on before you put any of the gasket maker on to make sure you get it all lined up.

Also use gaskacinch on the head side only of the intake gaskets to help hold them in position. Don’t put anything on the intake side of the gaskets, they should be dry.

Good luck!

 
Never re-use the pan as a gasket. In fact I don't believe it's a good idea to use it with an aluminum intake manifold (as is) due to the different heat expansion coefficients. The movement of the aluminum on the steel gasket will wear a groove in the aluminum. I have a Shelby (Blue Thunder) intake manifold with the wear from a turkey pan gasket.

The purpose of the pan is to keep hot oil from splashing on the bottom of the intake, helping to keep the air\fuel cooler. The pan can be trimmed to use it in conjunction with regular gaskets, also needs to have drain holes drilled in it.

The turkey pan has been discussed several times on the forum, here's a couple of examples, you can search for more.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-seeking-comments-on-i-m-shield-intake-manifold-heat-shield?

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-intake-manifold-valley-pan-installation?

I have a picture of a trimmed pan and can take a picture of the wear pattern on my intake, if anyone is interested.

 
Do not reuse the old one but I would put one back on all the sealing beads have been crushed.

Do not understand the comment about the movement of the intake on the pan wearing it. If you get a new Fel Pro pan it comes with two thin gaskets that go on either side of the metal pan so neither the head or intake really touch the metal pan.

I personally have never had any issues using the rubber end seals either. I do apply a thin coat of black RTV to both side of the rubber seals and the gasket under the intake. You do not need lots. A little extra in the corners to insure the corner of intake to block head gets closed.

If I remember right the Fel Pro gasket is like $45.00. I do not have number in my head but can go to garage and get it. I also use Fel Pro head gaskets with nothing on them at all. Clean head and block with razor blade & parts cleaner and torque to mfg. recommendations. Be 100% sure that you put the head gaskets on with the word FRONT to the front of the engine or it will run hot. The big square hole goes to the front. Take a picture before you put the head on so you know how it was installed. Some people turn the logos up on both gaskets and that puts one on wrong. FRONT to FRONT always works.

If the engine is in the vehicle and you have not help it is much easier to install the heads if you have two long bolts with no head on them. Screw one in either end to act as a guide to sit the head on will go much better. Same for the transmission if you have it out. Long cut off bolts in the bottom two holes and you can slide it right in.

I also run a tap into every hole in the head and the block and blow out with air. Only uses motor oil on the threads not assembly lube or you might over torque them. I use anti seize on the header bolts to keep them from locking in.

Make sure the baffle is still in the block under the thermostat and put a 192 deg. correct Cleveland thermostat in place. The Cleveland thermostat has the hat or a plunger on the end that when it opens it goes into the baffle in the block changing the water flow in the block. It works fine there is nothing wrong with the design. In the picture showing the baffle in the block I was reaching in with a wire to verify that my R.H. head gasket was put on backwards by PO.

If your header gaskets do not have the two end holes slotted like the ones in the top picture cut them out that way. That allows you to put the two end bolts in and then slide the gasket in correct place and not fight three pieces at the same time.



























 
Was just over at the 351 Cleveland forum and most do not use them and it turns out they dont work with roller cams.  Since I will be running a roller I guess thats my answer.

Thanks for the info guys!

 
I am interested to hear why they supposedly dont work with roller cams. I am using one with me roller cam and have no issues. No interference if thats the problem.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 
I am interested to hear why they supposedly dont work with roller cams. I am using one with me roller cam and have no issues. No interference if thats the problem.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
I will ask the question on the forum and see what they say.  I just assumed it was because the lifters sit up higher with that "dog bone".

 
Look at this two pictures. One shows the lifters with dog bones and rail. The other shows the valley pan (note that it has been cut following the recommendations given in this forum). I can't see how will it come in contact. The valley pan sits higher than any of the components.





 
the stock cleveland t stat system is definitely a big problem in some cases and can in fact cause an engine to run hotter than it otherwise would if the "hat" on the t stat is not properly sealing on the bypass plate. you can buy t stats with custom made hats and you can also buy custom made bypass plates for the stock systems. this is the most reliable system as far as stock is concerned. another alternative is to change the system to a windsor type t stat and modified block off plate or aftermarket one. the only potential issue with this type of system is that under some circumstances, it can cause stock heads to crack, but this is incredibly rare.

Here's some photos and pricing on the custom t stat and plate.

https://picclick.com/351C-Robertshaw-Thermostat-180F-Degree-The-Correct-Specific-183057863163.html

 
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I pulled the cast iron intake manifold off and am replacing it with an edelbrock intake.  I have noticed that the replacement intake gasket sets do not come with a new lifter valley pan.  Do I reuse the one that was on it?  Do I reuse the pan at all???  The reason I ask whether or not to use the pan is because I have watched several 351c tear down videos and some engines did not have this pan on it when they pulled the stock intakes.

So use it or lose it??  

If I use it do I buy a new one or clean and reuse the one that is in there?
Under no circumstance should anyone EVER re-use the "turkey-pan" style intake gasket. When using this style of intake gasket, always use a new one.

     Now...….some people will tell you to chuck the original style gasket and use aftermarket fibre style gaskets......telling you not to use the steel "bathtub' or "turkey pan" Either will seal and do the job. let me repeat that....EITHER style will work. Sometimes the pan style has interference issues with aftermarket roller rockers, in which case, obviously, you won't use the turkey pan. I assemble every engine that leaves the racing engine shop where I work, and have worked for many years. I have used the stock "turkey pan" on stock iron intakes ( factory used them) , and I've used the "turkey pan" on aluminum intakes with equally successfull results. I don't really ever use the rubber valley endseals as they are too prone to slip out and leak. I prefer to use the Permatex RTV in a 6" caulking gun tube called "The Right Stuff"and have never had a problem sealing the ends. On a steel pan intake, I use a thin layer of Gasgacinch on both sides of the intake ports for good measure, though I can't be sure the factory did, and it sealed for them.

     If you've only ever worked on your 351C, you would be unaware that engines such as the 350/400/425/455 Olds used a steel "turkey pan" gasket from the factory and they work fine, yes, even with an aluminum intake manifold ( the W-30 Olds 455 came factory with an aluminum intake, as did the W-31 Olds 350 ). The Olds engines even have water crossovers to seal, and there are no problems. Further, the big block Dodge/Plymouth/ Chrysler big blocks like the 383s and 440s also used a steel "turkey pan" style intake gasket from the factory. And so did AMC on their V8 intakes, again, having a water crossover to seal as well. NONE of these engines have had any issues with the steel pan style intake gasket. Come to think of it, didn't Ford use a "turkey pan" from the factory on the Boss 351 with an aluminum manifold? I've not had an original to dissemble and find out, but Ford may very well have used the same steel gasket as they used on the 4V head engines. I wonder if the factory parts book doesn't call out the same part number for the bathtub intake gasket?

     The factory style "turkey pan" will also keep hot oil off of the bottom of your intake to boot.

     So, if you feel better using a Mr. Gasket or Fel-Pro racing style paper intake gasket, and it works for you, do it. If you want to use the steel embossed intake pan, do it.

 
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