Internal door handle/release

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Blue Springs, MO
My Car
1971 Mach 1, Grabber Blue w/Argent stripes. Original 2V 351C Auto, Tilt, rear defog, Black Comfortweave Interior. Under restoration. Original colors, 4V 351C, 4-Speed, Spoilers, Magnums, Ram Air. All Ford parts.
OK need some door Mechanism experts to chime in here.

I finally bit the bullet and installed the passengers door panel.  Deluxe, original Ford, Power window panel.  After installing, I had my daughter try it out, and she could not get the door to open from the inside.  I opened fro the outside easily and tried from the inside with no luck.  if I really slam the interior handle hard it will start to pop the door open, a couple more and it will open.

So there is no getting around it, I need to take the door panel back off.  This is where I need help.  I have a bunch of extra parts for doors, but want to get the problem fixed in short order.

1) Since the door opens fine from the outside handle, do you think the problem is with the interior handle mechanism or with the drive rod, or with the actual striker latch mechanism?

2) I have a really clean looking passengers internal door handle assembly.  What are the wear indicators for these?  How do I know the difference between good and bad?  I assume I should swap the unit out if I pull the door panel.

3) I found a clean looking right side striker/latch box that clicks and functions nice in my hand.  Every function is smooth and direct click.  Should I go ahead and replace that unit too?  Should I replace both, or what test can I do with the door panel off to make sure everything will work well when the door panel is re-installed?  (I am trying to make this fiberboard last on the door panels)

4) is there any chance that door panel, door panel cups are interfering with the internal handle?  Not sure if this was a problem before the door panel went on or not as I am unsure how much I used the internal handle during interior rebuild and window alignment.

Your help is appreciated.

kcmash

 
Once you have the door panel off, re-fasten the door pull and check the operation of the rods.

Considering it works fine from the outside and (assuming) worked fine before the change of the panel, I would not change out striker or latch until you have door functioning with the rod operation first.

 
Thats the key.  I don't recall having any issues before the door panel was on.  But I don't recall how much I tried it.  I know I did use it a lot when I was adjusting the window stops.  I will see if I can see any door handle cup interference before removing the door panel.

If I do take the door panel off I don't see why I would not go ahead and replace the striker and the internal handle assy.  The striker assy I am considering clicks in all functions really nicely.  It really seems to be in great functional shape with no paint overspray on it.

kcmash

 
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