LED light modification

[Danno]

Looking to go with an LED light mod on my dash. I have the standard dash, no tach, no clock, just the speedometer and idiot lights. I have the 194 bulbs installed now...............which is the best kit to get?

I have seen them for less than $10, and the average is $30+. Thanks...................

 

[TheRktmn]

You get what you pay for. I always recommend the LED kits from HiPo Parts Garage.

https://www.hipoparts.com/1965-73-ford-mustang-led-gauge-light-conversion-kit/

HiPo Parts offers a variety of LED gauge light conversions kits in different colors and three levels of brightness. Our LED lighting kits use specially designed "plug and play" LED bulbs to replace the factory installed incandescent bulbs without any modifications to the wiring or the instrument cluster. HiPo Parts gauge light kits are the only kits that offer our exclusive Factory Color Match Technology. Our factory color LED bulbs emit light at the same frequency as a new incandescent bulb, only many times brighter. If you want true Factory Color, then be sure you are buying a genuine HiPo Parts LED kit. Click here to see the many benefits of converting to LED technology.

Choose from three versions starting at only $19.95!

(Prices vary based on year, version, & color combination)

HiPo Economy Series II - designed for the budget conscious buyer who wants an improvement in gauge lights (2-3x brighter) but is not concerned with retaining stock color or loss of dimmer function. The gauge illumination bulbs in these kits include 3 LEDs per bulb for improved light output over factory installed bulbs.

HiPo Extreme Series II - offers a substantial improvement over stock gauge lighting (up to 5x brighter) while retaining partial dimmer function in most vehicles. HiPo Extreme Series kits are available in our exclusive Factory Color and custom colors as well. The gauge illumination bulbs in these kits include 7 LEDs per bulb focused in varying directions for efficient instrument lighting.

HiPo Elite Series II - Designed for the discriminating customer who wants the absolute best lighting kit available. The HiPo Elite Series II kits use the brightest LED (SMD) technology available, providing lighting results (up to 8x brighter) consistent with modern vehicle dash lighting. These kits preserve the dimmer function in most vehicles. HiPo Elite Series kits are available in our exclusive Factory Color and custom colors as well. The gauge illumination bulbs in these kits include 15 LEDs per bulb focused in varying directions for superior instrument lighting.

Colors Available by Kit Type

Kit Type Factory Color* Blue Green Red Yellow

HiPo Economy Series II

YES NO NO NO NO

HiPo Extreme Series II

YES YES YES NO NO

HiPo Elite Series II

YES YES YES YES YES

* Factory Color uses specially designed bulbs for use with the factory installed lenses (where equipped) to provide correct color. See our tech section for more details.

For Optimum gauge cluster results, gauge needles should always be repainted with a true fluorescent paint. Visit our store to add our specially formulated Gauge Needle Paint to your order.

These kits supply replacement LED light bulbs for the main INSTRUMENT GAUGE CLUSTER ONLY. Customers who also wish to replace the other bulbs in their vehicle should visit the LED Bulb Applications by Vehicle section of our site to view all the bulbs available for your classic vehicle!

Please note: Due to the large number of kit variations available, we do not have photos of every kit by year and model. For additional images of our LED conversion kits, please visit our Sample LED Gauge Cluster Photos page in the tech section.

 

[midlife]

Do NOT replace your alternator indicator lamp with an LED: you need an incandescent to make the charging circuitry work correctly.

 

[libram]

just outta curiosity what would happen if you did? What wouldn't work or what would drain or whatever.

 

[midlife]

just outta curiosity what would happen if you did? What wouldn't work or what would drain or whatever.

The signal to stimulate the voltage regulator to regulate voltage runs through the indicator lamp.  There is a backup circuit using a resistor wire should the bulb burn out, but that is not as a reliable a system. To make it work correctly, you need some resistance in the lamp circuit itself.

 

[libram]

good to know ty midlife

 

[Stanglover]

Absolutely PLUS 1 on Rocketman's comments.

I, at first, went with the Extreme series bulbs, but later changed to the Elite series II and happy I did. I actually retained the original blue domes as I wanted the factory look and besides, my domes were still in great condition.

If you need help, you can contact Bill at Hi-Po Parts. He is very easy to work with and he can make suggestions as to your needs.

Also +1 on comments about the ALT bulb needing to remain an incandescent bulb. 

AND while you're at it, I'd buy Rocketman's TACH conversion. I think Bob was too humble to suggest it in his post, but again a very easy person to work with. It's a great replacement and a great addition to your dash. I have one and love it!! Very easy to install, negative feed tach and simple wiring. However, I installed it with bullet connectors for easy cluster removal/replacement. Spade connectors work too.

Geoff.

 

[Danno]

You get what you pay for. I always recommend the LED kits from HiPo Parts Garage.

https://www.hipoparts.com/1965-73-ford-mustang-led-gauge-light-conversion-kit/

HiPo Parts offers a variety of LED gauge light conversions kits in different colors and three levels of brightness. Our LED lighting kits use specially designed "plug and play" LED bulbs to replace the factory installed incandescent bulbs without any modifications to the wiring or the instrument cluster. HiPo Parts gauge light kits are the only kits that offer our exclusive Factory Color Match Technology. Our factory color LED bulbs emit light at the same frequency as a new incandescent bulb, only many times brighter. If you want true Factory Color, then be sure you are buying a genuine HiPo Parts LED kit. Click here to see the many benefits of converting to LED technology.

Choose from three versions starting at only $19.95!

(Prices vary based on year, version, & color combination)

HiPo Economy Series II - designed for the budget conscious buyer who wants an improvement in gauge lights (2-3x brighter) but is not concerned with retaining stock color or loss of dimmer function.  The gauge illumination bulbs in these kits include 3 LEDs per bulb for improved light output over factory installed bulbs.

HiPo Extreme Series II - offers a substantial improvement over stock gauge lighting (up to 5x brighter) while retaining partial dimmer function in most vehicles.  HiPo Extreme Series kits are available in our exclusive Factory Color and custom colors as well.  The gauge illumination bulbs in these kits include 7 LEDs per bulb focused in varying directions for efficient instrument lighting.

HiPo Elite Series II - Designed for the discriminating customer who wants the absolute best lighting kit available. The HiPo Elite Series II kits use the brightest LED (SMD) technology available, providing lighting results (up to 8x brighter) consistent with modern vehicle dash lighting.  These kits preserve the dimmer function in most vehicles.  HiPo Elite Series kits are available in our exclusive Factory Color and custom colors as well. The gauge illumination bulbs in these kits include 15 LEDs per bulb focused in varying directions for superior instrument lighting.

Colors Available by Kit Type

Kit Type Factory Color* Blue Green Red Yellow

HiPo Economy Series II

YES NO NO NO NO

HiPo Extreme Series II

YES YES YES NO NO

HiPo Elite Series II

YES YES YES YES YES

* Factory Color uses specially designed bulbs for use with the factory installed lenses (where equipped) to provide correct color. See our tech section for more details.

For Optimum gauge cluster results, gauge needles should always be repainted with a true fluorescent paint. Visit our store to add our specially formulated Gauge Needle Paint to your order.

These kits supply replacement LED light bulbs for the main INSTRUMENT GAUGE CLUSTER ONLY.  Customers who also wish to replace the other bulbs in their vehicle should visit the LED Bulb Applications by Vehicle section of our site to view all the bulbs available for your classic vehicle!

Please note: Due to the large number of kit variations available, we do not have photos of every kit by year and model. For additional images of our LED conversion kits, please visit our Sample LED Gauge Cluster Photos page in the tech section.

Thanks for the quick reply.........this is one of the places I had been looking at, so I'll probably go with this setup......thanks again........

 

[Danno]

Do NOT replace your alternator indicator lamp with an LED: you need an incandescent to make the charging circuitry work correctly.

While I have the dash out, I intend to try to find out why my alt light never worked. I originally just inserted a 194 bulb in the hole for the light, but found out that it's a separate pigtail and different bulb. I think I remember a mystery wire and socket hanging loose back there, and if I remember correctly also the socket is broken...........

 

[Stanglover]

Do NOT replace your alternator indicator lamp with an LED: you need an incandescent to make the charging circuitry work correctly.

While I have the dash out, I intend to try to find out why my alt light never worked. I originally just inserted a 194 bulb in the hole for the light, but found out that it's a separate pigtail and different bulb. I think I remember a mystery wire and socket hanging loose back there, and if I remember correctly also the socket is broken...........

 Midlife will confirm, but I think somebody 'mickey moused' it. It should be part of the printed circuit board thingy. May need a replacement.

 

[midlife]

Do NOT replace your alternator indicator lamp with an LED: you need an incandescent to make the charging circuitry work correctly.

While I have the dash out, I intend to try to find out why my alt light never worked. I originally just inserted a 194 bulb in the hole for the light, but found out that it's a separate pigtail and different bulb. I think I remember a mystery wire and socket hanging loose back there, and if I remember correctly also the socket is broken...........

 Midlife will confirm, but I think somebody 'mickey moused' it. It should be part of the printed circuit board thingy. May need a replacement.

71/72 was part of the circuit board; 73 the lamp is integral to the underdash harness.  Don't you love year-to-year changes?

 

[Stanglover]

While I have the dash out, I intend to try to find out why my alt light never worked. I originally just inserted a 194 bulb in the hole for the light, but found out that it's a separate pigtail and different bulb. I think I remember a mystery wire and socket hanging loose back there, and if I remember correctly also the socket is broken...........

 Midlife will confirm, but I think somebody 'mickey moused' it. It should be part of the printed circuit board thingy. May need a replacement.

71/72 was part of the circuit board; 73 the lamp is integral to the underdash harness.  Don't you love year-to-year changes?

 That's something I did not know on 73's. Not my fav year anyway! Danno has a 72, so someone messed it up for sure.

 

[Danno]

 Midlife will confirm, but I think somebody 'mickey moused' it. It should be part of the printed circuit board thingy. May need a replacement.

71/72 was part of the circuit board; 73 the lamp is integral to the underdash harness.  Don't you love year-to-year changes?

 That's something I did not know on 73's. Not my fav year anyway! Danno has a 72, so someone messed it up for sure.

So what I understand "now", is that the alt warning light is in fact just a standard 194 bulb inserted in a twist socket like the rest of the bulbs, and NOT a separate wire ("pigtail") and socket that is then inserted into the hole in the circuit board? Maybe that mystery wire/socket is for the headlight bezel that also never worked.........

Am I looking at a new circuit board if I want the alt light to work then? Maybe I have a '73 under dash harness, LOL! :huh:

 

[libram]

so midlife I have another ? If you have a tach you don't have the warning light, soooooo what if anything should I worry about for the voltage regulator?

 

[midlife]

so midlife I have another ? If you have a tach you don't have the warning light, soooooo what if anything should I worry about for the voltage regulator?

Nothing to worry about.  The VR has a different wiring scheme that takes care of things.  If you have an ammeter, you're golden.  Even if you replace the ammeter with a volt-meter, you're still golden as long as you retain the gauge-configured alternator harness.

 

[libram]

sweet ty

 

[midlife]

While I have the dash out, I intend to try to find out why my alt light never worked. I originally just inserted a 194 bulb in the hole for the light, but found out that it's a separate pigtail and different bulb. I think I remember a mystery wire and socket hanging loose back there, and if I remember correctly also the socket is broken...........

 Midlife will confirm, but I think somebody 'mickey moused' it. It should be part of the printed circuit board thingy. May need a replacement.

71/72 was part of the circuit board; 73 the lamp is integral to the underdash harness.  Don't you love year-to-year changes?

My bad; 71 only was part of the circuit board; 72/73's were integral to the underdash harness.  10 lashes with a ground strap to Midlife, please! :jawdrop: :slap: :stickwhack: :imsorry:

 

[Stanglover]

My bad; 71 only was part of the circuit board; 72/73's were integral to the underdash harness.  10 lashes with a ground strap to Midlife, please! :jawdrop: :slap: :stickwhack: :imsorry:

  !0 lashes for me too, I always thought that 71-72's were pretty much the same car other than engine downgrades after June-July 71 [or] when the " Cobra Jet'" Q codes came in.

Again, I learn every day!

 

[NOT A T5]

What's wrong with Mickey Mouse?