LEDs for turn signals, brakes and reverse lights

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Coachella Valley (Palm Springs)
My Car
1973 Convertible, 351 4v CJ, C6, Mach 1 Decor options, power: steering, brakes and windows, a/c, Rally Pac gauges, Deluxe interior.
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Maybe I should have put it in the subject line, but HiPoParts.com is having a clearance sale on 1156 and 1157 style LED lights.  1156 in white and 1157 in red or amber.

I am replacing all the exterior bulbs other than headlights with bulbs from SuperBrightLEDS but I ran into a snag when it came to front turn signals.  I did not have the same problem on the rear lights, just the front turn signals:  there is barely enough or perhaps not enough clearance when you push the bulb down into the fixture to then turn the bulb to a locked-in position. 

In trying to do so I seriously messed up the multiple LED strips the bulb is made of.  The reverse bulbs, 1156s, had a glass cover like a regular bulb over the mini-LED strips which you can grip without damaging the mini-LEDs inside, so I went to HiPoParts to see what they offer in 1157s, and lo and behold, they have a sort-of sheltered mini-LED grouping in red or amber, and they're on sale.  The 1156s I used from SuperBright for the rear parking/brake lights installed just fine, so it's probably a function of my front fixture(s), but a sturdier bulb hopefully? solves the problem.

 
Maybe I should have put it in the subject line, but HiPoParts.com is having a clearance sale on 1156 and 1157 style LED lights.  1156 in white and 1157 in red or amber.

I am replacing all the exterior bulbs other than headlights with bulbs from SuperBrightLEDS but I ran into a snag when it came to front turn signals.  I did not have the same problem on the rear lights, just the front turn signals:  there is barely enough or perhaps not enough clearance when you push the bulb down into the fixture to then turn the bulb to a locked-in position. 

In trying to do so I seriously messed up the multiple LED strips the bulb is made of.  The reverse bulbs, 1156s, had a glass cover like a regular bulb over the mini-LED strips which you can grip without damaging the mini-LEDs inside, so I went to HiPoParts to see what they offer in 1157s, and lo and behold, they have a sort-of sheltered mini-LED grouping in red or amber, and they're on sale.  The 1156s I used from SuperBright for the rear parking/brake lights installed just fine, so it's probably a function of my front fixture(s), but a sturdier bulb hopefully? solves the problem.
 My honest opinion directly from my own experience with HiPo Parts, junk the cheapo stuff and buy it all from Bill. You may pay a buck or two more BUT you get one-on-one personal service and you support a local US business. The rear bulbs on mine are SMD's that look nothing like a regular 1157. These are much brighter still imo. As for fit in the turn signals, no problem at all with Bill's bulbs. One item you will need for LED turn signals and hazards is the grounded LED flashers. These are polarity specific and for some reason the harness on my car was wired wrong, so as I couldn't pull the wires from the socket, I made up a couple of short jumpers. 

I'm sure you've read the recent threads on LED headlights and relays. This was absolutely THE best upgrade I did on my car. The difference is literally night and day. 

IMG_0178.1.JPG

 
 My honest opinion directly from my own experience with HiPo Parts, junk the cheapo stuff and buy it all from Bill.
Thx - I've ordered from him before with good results, for sure.  And yup, included the grounded flashers -- thanks for validating my choice of the grounded over just electronic.  Headlights will be a later upgrade although since they are currently operable, a lower priority.  I had a number of small bulbs out and didn't want incandescent mixed with LED to complicate my troubleshooting.

 
These are polarity specific and for some reason the harness on my car was wired wrong, so as I couldn't pull the wires from the socket, I made up a couple of short jumpers. 

View attachment 56888
These jumpers are a work of art.  Seriously!

 
I got my 1157 bulb Amber LEDs and the grounded electronic flasher from HiPo and unless the rest of the day gets in the way, will attempt to install.  Actually, I'll say "begin the discovery process" because it seems it's always "Why didn't that work the first time?"  lol...  I'm also going to take a pic of the two types of 1157 LEDs and you can see for yourself why one was far easier to work with than the other.

 
I got my 1157 bulb Amber LEDs and the grounded electronic flasher from HiPo and unless the rest of the day gets in the way, will attempt to install.  Actually, I'll say "begin the discovery process" because it seems it's always "Why didn't that work the first time?"  lol...  I'm also going to take a pic of the two types of 1157 LEDs and you can see for yourself why one was far easier to work with than the other.
 Looking forward to that. I'm curious.

 
Ok, thank you. When I read it, I thought it meant don't buy cheap like HiPo parts, deal with someone like Bill. Lol. I didn't realize it was use Bill FROM HiPo parts! I will get with him for my bulbs then. I appreciate the info!

 
Ok, thank you. When I read it, I thought it meant don't buy cheap like HiPo parts, deal with someone like Bill. Lol. I didn't realize it was use Bill FROM HiPo parts! I will get with him for my bulbs then. I appreciate the info!
If you're referring to my post, I see what you mean when I read it back again. Sorry for any confusion. I meant junk the cheapo stuff and buy the good stuff from Bill at HiPo Parts. Unsurpassed quality and personal service, and no, I'm not getting paid to advertise for him, lol!

 
 Looking forward to that. I'm curious.
Will you accept halfway? I destroyed the first when trying to install because it was basically a circle set of multi-LEDs attached to the base only by soldering the electrical connections. I did buy two, and having trouble locating the other.

But, here’s the HiPo version. LEDs are shielded by a diffuser so you won’t get mucked up with the bulbs innards trying to install it.

76514600-DF23-41CE-AFA7-195E3B8896E2.jpeg

 
Will you accept halfway? I destroyed the first when trying to install because it was basically a circle set of multi-LEDs attached to the base only by soldering the electrical connections. I did buy two, and having trouble locating the other.

But, here’s the HiPo version. LEDs are shielded by a diffuser so you won’t get mucked up with the bulbs innards trying to install it.

View attachment 57003
Sure, I'll accept half way. This is the quality I'm talking about and your description of the "other bulb", the "cheap stuff".

 
Sure, I'll accept half way. This is the quality I'm talking about and your description of the "other bulb", the "cheap stuff".
I screen-captured an email asking me to rate the products to get the LED-tower that failed (on the left), and the reverse bulb that is similar although it's in a glass bubble (on the right); it's usable without destroying it.  The problem with the LED tower bulb on the left is that when inserting into the socket, the bulb goes all the way to where the bottom of the LEDs start.  There was no way to push the bulb further in/down and twist into locked position without mangling the upper half of the fixture.

LEDs.jpg

 
These are the 1157 equivalent bulbs I have from Bill, HiPoParts.com These fit without any problem and I have them front and rear. They have a magnifying lens on the end and are much brighter than a standard bulb, led or otherwise.

IMG_1884.JPG

IMG_1885.JPG

 
I’m glad to see better implementations of LEDs. Really, the LED(s) needs to be integrated with its fixture as is the clearance 1157 bulb from HiPo or the newer 1157 you posted.

 
Avoiding to create another topic I have a question. Swapped the front park/turn lights with LED. Nice and bright. But it also made the turn light indicators glow in the dash once the light switch is pulled. Just beats my mind how on Earth this is possible. Has anyone had similar symptoms?
P_20231106_193154.jpgP_20231106_193230.jpg
 
Bad ground somewhere or the wrong LED in that socket. That's a 2 filament bulb with a ground in it. I'll bet your LED is a one filament using the turn signal lights as the ground path.
 
Bad ground somewhere or the wrong LED in that socket. That's a 2 filament bulb with a ground in it. I'll bet your LED is a one filament using the turn signal lights as the ground path.
No, it is a two-filament bulb and it works perfectly, as it is supposed to. When I swap them to the old-style bulbs, all work the same (not as bright though but it eliminates the bad ground option), and the indicator lights don't lit up. It is like the LEDs would send sort of a current back to the dash, but that does not make sense.

However, the last times driving I noticed the all dash lights go out from time to time and were coming back once I played the lights switch. Looks like a connected issue (overloads the circuit breakers?). The switch is brand new though. Just wondered if anyone had a similar experience.

I'll swap the bulbs back, and wait for better weather (slim chance here before the spring) to test-drive again.
 
No, it is a two-filament bulb and it works perfectly, as it is supposed to. When I swap them to the old-style bulbs, all work the same (not as bright though but it eliminates the bad ground option), and the indicator lights don't lit up. It is like the LEDs would send sort of a current back to the dash, but that does not make sense.

However, the last times driving I noticed the all dash lights go out from time to time and were coming back once I played the lights switch. Looks like a connected issue (overloads the circuit breakers?). The switch is brand new though. Just wondered if anyone had a similar experience.

I'll swap the bulbs back, and wait for better weather (slim chance here before the spring) to test-drive again.
Do you have a solid state flasher with a separate ground wire? This is required for LEDs
 
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