Lowering front end

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mach1dave

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Hi all.
Now we all know our cars have a slightly nose up stance, mine especially as I have fibre glass wings and bonnet, so I want to lower it slightly, but without causing problems. So my question is, if I cut one coil out of the front springs, approximately how much lower would the car sit? I was told about a inch, does that sound right? Would an inch drop necessitate the need for a bump steer kit?
Any advice/comments would be great!
Thanks in advance!
 

libram

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I used new lowered front springs and drop spindles on the front, replaced the rear springs for a lift on the rear. All said and done the front dropped 1/2 inch and the rear raised 1 inch, perhaps to aggressive if you want a good rear view but let’s be honest it’s never going to be a good rear view. Stance is aggressive and the front view over the hood is clear, also used 245’s on the rear for even more height and aggression.
 

mach1dave

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Agree with Chris and Chuck, nice stance, what I am looking for!.
You said no modifications needed, but with only half a coil cut, the top of coil is sitting 160 deg from original position, so do they still seat okat the top? I've not seen a spring insulator for a while, but arn't they 'notched' in some way?
Cheers.
 

mach1dave

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"On re-installation just rotate the coil the 160-180 degrees so that it sits in the original notched seat".

Thanks for the reply Chris, but if I only cut half a coil off, and it is seated properly in the spring perch seat, up against the spring stop, the top will still be 180 out? Surely you would have to cut a whole coil out for it to sit properly in the 'notch' at the top? That would be too low for me. The reason I started this thread is because I have cut a quarter coil out, but mine is not sitting properly at the top. I have renewed every part of the susp/steering with new, and I'm getting a real disconcerting' twitch' from the front end going over bumps/manhole covers etc. Car seems to twitch to the side, really quite scary!
Onlt difference from before rebuild is my slight spring cut, which is what I am putting the twitchiness down to?
 

Sheriff41

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The top of the spring is not indexed and should seat fine regardless of spring rotation. The bottom if the spring is positioned to seat in the spring perch with the cut end against the stop.

EDIT: If you see a notch at the top it may be your old spring insulator is stuck up there. The insulators take a set once installed and, once removed, will have a notch where the spring pressed into them. Simply pull the insulator down and position it on the top of the spring, or just stick the new spring in and the old insulator will have two notches next time you remove the spring!
 
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RIBS

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Yes what Sheriff 41 said. I have brand new spring insulators for the top and they are finished smooth. They are cheap, and easy to install, buy a new set. I have Two sets by accident. APC set is much thicker than Scott Drake set. NPD sells them.
 

mach1dave

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Thanks guys, have got a new set of insulators arriving any day now!
Just checked them again on ebay (item 191851311331) and they definitely got a 'step' on the top?
 
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droptop73

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To predict the amount of drop you will get when cutting a spring measure the distance from the top of one coil to the top of another with the car on the ground. On our cars the spring perch is about half way from the pivot to the ball joint. This means whatever vertical height is removed from the spring will be doubled at the ball joint. For example if there is 1" from the top of one coil to the top of the next, removing 1 coil will shorten the loaded coil 1" and lower the car by 2".
 

jspears

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I never had an issue with bumpsteer with my lowered car. I would encourage you to add caster because that will improve handling. Adding caster also rotates the spindles which moves the outer tie rod ends lower.
 

RIBS

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I just reinstalled new springs and perches, yes you can rotate the top any amount, the weight and pressure might cause indents and shaping on the upper insulator, if it’s a problem just replace them…
 

mach1dave

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Thanks guys, all comments/advice noted!
Took it out yesterday, and noticed a mild squeal from the front tyres when going over metal manhole covers in a straight line, which I think would mean the tyres are not rolling perpendicular to each other?
Have decided to have the front end professionally set up before I go any further, maybe thinking it may be the geometry now. I set it up best I could, with a tape measure and a good dose of enthusiasm, and I can't be a lot out, but better to get it checked properly I suppose!
 
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