Malwood under dash clutch kit

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MustangPete

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1972 Mach 1 351C-4V-CJ-Q vehicle, 4 speed wide ratio toploader, 3.5:1 limited slip, 2nd owner bought in 1975. Engine upgraded with quench heads, solid lifter Isky cam, TRW forged pistons, polished and shot peened rods, Crane roller rockers, Manley 3/8" pushrods & guides, Offy single plane & Holley 650 DP, Computronix Ignition, Hooker headers. Doing many updates, Sanderson shorty's, Pypes 2.5" stainless, 4:56 gears (solid pinion spacer), SPC upper control arms, new strut rods, springs, GPS brakes and rotors, and next move is towards FiTech fuel injection system.
I installed the one from American Powertrain. The master cylinder push rod angle is terrible and I have spent too much time dialing it in. I am ordering the Malwood pedal tomorrow.
 
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1973 Mach 1
Some other Fords
I know it is not a hydraulic solution, but thought I'd post another alternative.

When I converted my FMX to a T-5 manual I used a clutch cable (similar to later version Mustangs):


I used this pedal assembly to add a clutch pedal to my automatic pedal box.

https://www.moderndriveline.com/sho...ang-cougar/71-73-mustang-cougar-clutch-pedal/

I am very happy with both of these products.
 

jedomfl

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72 MACH 1 351 5-SPD YELLOW
I installed the one from American Powertrain. The master cylinder push rod angle is terrible and I have spent too much time dialing it in. I am ordering the Malwood pedal tomorrow.
I have the malwood and have been very pleased with results. Angle is spot on.
 
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'72 "mach" and a bunch of other stuff.
I have one. Product is qualit. I had issues as I was converting my auto pedal box to a manual pedal box. The Scott Drake bearing kit did not fit right so I had to modify the Drake part.

I ended up trimming some of my pedal box to make sure it cleared the malwood cylinder. Unsure if my pedal support was wonky or just a faulty installer valve
 

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Joined
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'72 "mach" and a bunch of other stuff.
It will be a while. Working on fixing the poor decisions in the 90’s. Stock vs how much I cut out. Now adding back in.

getting the body and electrical working before I assemble the engine and buy the transmission

still trying to decide on blown 357c, NA 408c, Coyote or new Godzilla
 

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I installed one on mine with their TB. I had to shave a little of my factory pedal assy for smooth actuation. Other than that, I have about 1500 miles on the setup and she's solid. Their customer service has called me back on a Sunday for what it's worth.
 

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boxgranch

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1972 Base Convertible 302
How is the Malwood working now? The one I got that mounts on the firewall was a PITA to install and very difficult to adjust the linkage. We obviously got something wrong and it failed at about 4,000 miles. We are considering getting the Malwood if it will work with the installed throw out. If not probably do the MDL mechanical which, alas, means pulling the transmission. Argh.
 

Tnfastbk

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It is an absolute pain in the $ss to install with the pedal box in the car. It was designed to be installed on the workbench from what I can tell. I have swapped from the American powertrain assembly after the second master cylinder failure. It is in the car but I have not driven it yet as I am doing some other mods that have taken more time than I care to think about. But it is a very good quality part.
 
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'72 "mach" and a bunch of other stuff.
All of my install issues were the Scott Drake needle bearing pedal kit.

I pulled the pedal box out as I converted mine from an auto pedal box.

I am getting close to adding fluid and bleeding it.

then I will see if I need a pedal stop.
 

giantpune

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How are you guys routing the hydraulic lines for the malwood kit?

I'm getting ready to order the moderndriveline package. They are currently defaulting to the malwood clutch master cylinder. And your choice of a hydraulic throwout bearing or the traditional fork with an external slave cylinder pushing the fork back. I am leaning towards the second option, the external slave cylinder, just for the ease of adjustments and repairs down the road.

So I will somehow need to get the hydraulic line from the driver's floorboard out and then around to the driver's side of the transmission.

The two obvious choices I see are either straight through the firewall and then snake around to the side of the transmission, or poking the line right through the transmission tunnel where it will come out closer to the transmission.

Also, how are you mounting the fluid reservoir? Does the malwood kit take care of that or do you need to get creative and find your own place for it?
 
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72 Fastback - 351C-4V, Fitech EFI, T56 Magnum 6 Speed
Sorry I can't help with a lot of that as I'm running a Wilwood on the other side of the firewall. FWIW - It does seem like going out the firewall would be pretty straight forward and tidy.

I'm not sure if there's a disadvantage to the way it works, but I'd personally prefer to have an external slave for serviceability as you mentioned. I've had to pull my tranny twice to service mine (Hydramax) within a few hundred miles after it was installed. It's been great since, but sure would have been nice to be able to just slide under there and fix this issue in an afternoon.
 

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