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Suspension, Handling, Brakes, Wheels and Tires
Manual Drum Brakes
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<blockquote data-quote="71coop" data-source="post: 386334" data-attributes="member: 5910"><p>My 71 had manual drums when I bought it. Drums can be rebuilt to work pretty well, but I wanted to go disc simply for personal preference. I decided to do a front disc conversion, but remain manual. I did this primarily because to do a power swap, you have to modify where the booster bolts to the firewall (its different on a power vs manual car).</p><p></p><p>There are good front disc conversion kits from Summit, Pirate Jack, and others. Almost all do not come with a master cylinder, which is a requirement.</p><p></p><p>After a lot of research, I learned that many people pair a manual front disc setup with a 74 Maverick master cylinder that was designed for a manual disc/drum combo, and an adjustable proportioning and residual valve spliced into the rear brake line feed. I sourced an MC from Rock Auto for a reasonable price, and Jegs has several easy-to-use valves.</p><p></p><p>You can do the splicing from underneath, or in the engine bay. I found it easier to do it under the car near the rear axle. Make sure you still go through the rear drums and set them up correctly, and read the prop valve instructions. This overall setup works really well.</p><p></p><p>Once done, the effort to stop isn't much different than a power setup - and it was less overall work and cost than a full power swap. Just something to think about.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="71coop, post: 386334, member: 5910"] My 71 had manual drums when I bought it. Drums can be rebuilt to work pretty well, but I wanted to go disc simply for personal preference. I decided to do a front disc conversion, but remain manual. I did this primarily because to do a power swap, you have to modify where the booster bolts to the firewall (its different on a power vs manual car). There are good front disc conversion kits from Summit, Pirate Jack, and others. Almost all do not come with a master cylinder, which is a requirement. After a lot of research, I learned that many people pair a manual front disc setup with a 74 Maverick master cylinder that was designed for a manual disc/drum combo, and an adjustable proportioning and residual valve spliced into the rear brake line feed. I sourced an MC from Rock Auto for a reasonable price, and Jegs has several easy-to-use valves. You can do the splicing from underneath, or in the engine bay. I found it easier to do it under the car near the rear axle. Make sure you still go through the rear drums and set them up correctly, and read the prop valve instructions. This overall setup works really well. Once done, the effort to stop isn't much different than a power setup - and it was less overall work and cost than a full power swap. Just something to think about. [/QUOTE]
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Suspension, Handling, Brakes, Wheels and Tires
Manual Drum Brakes
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