Midwest-stored Convertible

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jmohring

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I've got a partially-restored 73' convertible that was stored outside in Columbus, Ohio for 8-10 years. Eventually I would like to get work done on the body, as there is lots of rust under every body panel. The paint is also getting faded/patchy. I don't really know what all would need to be done to restore it to rust-free. I would expect to pay at least $3000 for a job like that and I'm in a position where I'd be willing to pay a shop to do it.

Those of you that have restored mustangs stored in similar climate (same level of rust damage), what kind of work needed to be done and about how much did it cost.

Just trying to get an idea of what to expect.

 

donkost

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Long time Pontiac guy, jumped ship, now driving a '71 Grabber Green Mach 1 with "J" code 429 Cobra Jet, close-ratio 4 speed, 3.50 Traction-Lok rear.
I'm not trying to be a wise guy, but did you forget a zero?  It's going to cost a lot more than $3000 to repair lots of rust damage and repaint the car.  Maybe a number of the panels could be saved if they are cleaned up internally and something like POR-15 is applied.  But removing, treating, and replacing all of the panels where this is possible is going to be quite expensive.  If anything is bad enough that it needs to be cut out and patch panels welded in (floor pan, trunk pan, rear quarters, etc.) it is going to be a very large bill to pay a shop to do that.  Another story if you could do all of the work yourself.  If not, it would be better to purchase a nicer car to begin with and save all of that extra expense.

 

machattack

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Its almost daunting when you start looking over your brand new toy for the first time. Seems the more you fix the more you find. Our 71 mach was a real mess but after 2 years of work night after night its now in the body shop for paint. 

First and foremost dont get discouraged! plug away at your list of tasks to do. Feel good if you can check off one item a day or every other day. Before you know it you will have half the work done. With that said also half the bill saved. 

It is very expensive to have a shop do all the work. Especially if its a full restoration. I can guarantee that the guys on this forum will jump in and help with your questions so you can do the work your self. Ive seen restorations on these go from 10k to 50k. They can go well above that as well.The paint alone will be 8-10 for a average job, but not a premium job.

Feel free to Pm me if I can help ya? 

Ps: Have fun.......stay safe with jack stands (not the recalled ones from harbor freight) 

 

jmohring

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Well this is all rather shocking, but great information. Looks like I'll be doing most rust repair myself unless it's not actually as bad as I think it is. Getting another car is not really an option, as this was my first car and I've had it for 10 years now.  I'm just at a point where I can put a lot of time and money into making it rust free and good looking.

 
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One thing to note on the bright side is when you do it yourself you know exactly what you have and also the pride you will have seeing the results of your hard work.  As machaatack mentioned take it one day at a time and the small steps will turn into long strides.  Lots of help here to be had for the asking.  Also as Don C pointed out look up some of the builds and you will find some good info on how people are doing things.   You can also do searches to find answers on specific things.  You will do fine.  Just do it right the first time.  Nothing worse then trying to fix a problem after the car is done.  

 
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If you have never worked with fixing a Mustang you are in for a HUGE shock. If you do a ground up rebuilt just the materials like sand paper, filler, primer, sealer and color and clear coats will run you right $3,000 to $3,500 just for materials. A ground up restore will require probably 2,000 hours of labor and that is $50 - $100 and hour. The TV shows doing a car in a week or 10 days is BS. There are shops that do specialize in just rust repair and panel replacement. Here is a link to one outside of Atlanta, Ga. .
If you just have lots of surface rust you can get the car dipped but that will cost over $2,000 and you have to remove everything and send just empty body shell. 
You will come out ahead buying one already done and let them take the losses. 

https://www.graverobberssheetmetal.com/index.php/price-lists/mustang-prices

Graverobbers does not body or paint work and after the repo panels are on you should remove all the black e-coat and put on good epoxy primer and go from there. No you are not going to get a perfect body back takes lots of custom panel work if you want one perfect and Graverobbers is not a restorations shop only panel replacement. 
A really good restore will be right up around $100,000 unless you just make one a shiny used car like most do and not make it concourse. 

I have 5 convertibles two are parts cars. You can find good rust free ones for decent price if you shop around. This yellow convertible I got off Ebay for $7,200 and is about 80% original paint and interior. California car no rust in floors, trunk or quarters. I just drive it. Has 351 C, c-4, tilt column, gauges, upgraded to 4-V is H code, Edelbrock performer intake, MSD, console, Decor group, convenience group, deluxe bumper, dual mirrors, sport wheel covers, AC, tinted glass, PDB, PS. 48,000 miles. Came with the original steel wheels and caps and a new set of aluminum wheels and Firestone tires. I just cleaned the car up and checked everything out. He had put one head gasket on backwards which I fixed. 

DSC_1058.JPG

 

jmohring

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What is getting the car dipped?  I'm not familiar with what that means.  

Sounds like I just need to take out most components (carpet, seats, etc.) and get an idea of what work needs done on the rust before I jump to conclusions. I've done some patchwork on the floor panels in the past which seemed to be the worst rust spots on the car so far. The only other thing I'm really worried about is rust under panels that I've never looked under.  In general there are many tiny "bubbles" on the paint across most of the car, which is why I think the rust may be pretty bad.

 
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Here is a link to the shop in North Carolina that does dip striping. http://chem-strip.com/portfolio/

You have to take every thing out of the body. All that you send is the bare chassis with no interior, no suspension and no drive train. Windows all our but doors can stay on. You will get  clean phosphate coated body back. You would need and enclosed trailer to haul and a way to get the chassis in and out of trailer. 

 

jmohring

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Here is a link to the shop in North Carolina that does dip striping. http://chem-strip.com/portfolio/

You have to take every thing out of the body. All that you send is the bare chassis with no interior, no suspension and no drive train. Windows all our but doors can stay on. You will get  clean phosphate coated body back. You would need and enclosed trailer to haul and a way to get the chassis in and out of trailer. 
That's very interesting and yeah sounds pretty pricey, but I don't think I'll need it after consulting my dad who's done body work in the past on this car. However this may come handy in the future.  Thanks for the info!

 
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I guess it is looked at different by everyone. But the cost is about 3 days in a shop. I do not see anyone stripping all paint, rust and sealer by hand or other means in three days. 
I myself have Emphysema from all the crap I breathed years ago. Use to paint cars with Vaseline in my nose and towel tied around my face. Sand and grind with not mask. Now i pay.

 
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