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Tnfastbk

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Well just a little update info from yesterdays work. I finally got the hood set back on only to find its not going to shut with a ram air breather on it:mad: Its a good 1-2 inches away from where it needs to be. So now the question is to try to modify one which could be an expensive mistake if it does not work or just not run ram air. I never even thought about the height with the new aluminum AFD heads until we set it under the hood, always something.

 
Well just a little update info from yesterdays work. I finally got the hood set back on only to find its not going to shut with a ram air breather on it:mad: Its a good 1-2 inches away from where it needs to be. So now the question is to try to modify one which could be an expensive mistake if it does not work or just not run ram air. I never even thought about the height with the new aluminum AFD heads until we set it under the hood, always something.
Kinda hard to believe the heads would be that much taller? Is there a carb spacer you could maybe do without?

 
Well just a little update info from yesterdays work. I finally got the hood set back on only to find its not going to shut with a ram air breather on it:mad: Its a good 1-2 inches away from where it needs to be. So now the question is to try to modify one which could be an expensive mistake if it does not work or just not run ram air. I never even thought about the height with the new aluminum AFD heads until we set it under the hood, always something.
I don't think it is the heads.What intake? That is the only reason I am not running a Torker / airgap type manifold. I one setting on the shelf ready to go.

I have to run a dual plain Offy with out a carb spacer to run the ram air.

I can run a Torker etc...if I use a low profile air cleaner like the Moroso.I can also run the "Q"code factory NON ramair with out problems.

So I am stuck with the dual plain intake.It sure is not the best set up, but I am all hung up with the way the ramair looks!

PC250018.JPG

 
I do have a 1/2 in spacer but right now dont think that is the killer, the heads are about a 1/4 in taller where the intake ports are. then with the intake also just to tall. gonna do some measureing today with a clear head and rethink it

 
Yes, I agree that modifying the "Cleaner" may turn out to be an expensive mistake.

In my opinion, the "Ram Air" is a really nice "wow" factor when you pop the hood. When I was running one, I did not see any noticeable difference in my quarter mile times. I subsequently ditched it and put a Boss 429 type scoop on my Mach I so that I can use just about any intake that is out there.

I would say an option might be to keep the ram air setup for "display" at shows and go with a good breathing cleaner for the "real" world.

Just a thought!

BT

 
You modified your engine extensively for power and it needs any air it can get.Although RamAir is way cool , i think you would restrict its output. K&N would be a good alternative for this nicely built motor.

If you want to keep the RamAir setup, why not modify a repro aircleaner and fill it with a K&N ...best of two worlds...

uv

 
Roy, do you want the factory look? Would it be possible to fab a different pan from a drop base aircleaner? How high does the carb fit up into the hood? Can the hood close without the aircleaner? If so how much clearance do you have? Is it possible to lose the spacer and machine some height from the carb flange on the manifold?

Just throwing some ideas at ya buddy.

 
Roy, do you want the factory look? Would it be possible to fab a different pan from a drop base aircleaner? How high does the carb fit up into the hood? Can the hood close without the aircleaner? If so how much clearance do you have? Is it possible to lose the spacer and machine some height from the carb flange on the manifold?

Just throwing some ideas at ya buddy.
If you go to 429megasite.com they show how to modify one. You could go to the junkyard and find an old base so you don't mess up the orginal.

 
Well just a little update info from yesterdays work. I finally got the hood set back on only to find its not going to shut with a ram air breather on it:mad: Its a good 1-2 inches away from where it needs to be. So now the question is to try to modify one which could be an expensive mistake if it does not work or just not run ram air. I never even thought about the height with the new aluminum AFD heads until we set it under the hood, always something.
Bummer..Roy is it height where the problem is ? or is it front to back..left to right ? Pic ?

 
the problem is the whole thing is to high left right front and back. the hood will close no problem without the ram air cleaner on it. so did not go down to day and look it over again, will do it the first of the week. I dont have to run the ram air bet really wanted to. so with that said not going to let it hold me up at this point i will buy a low profile K&N and tackle it later on. Its not going anywhere.

 
the problem is the whole thing is to high left right front and back. the hood will close no problem without the ram air cleaner on it. so did not go down to day and look it over again, will do it the first of the week. I dont have to run the ram air bet really wanted to. so with that said not going to let it hold me up at this point i will buy a low profile K&N and tackle it later on. Its not going anywhere.
Roy..I feel your pain:dodgy: I went through the same thing on my 71 Camaro..when I installed the cowl induction hood..Here's how I solved the problem..Not my Idea so I can't take credit. But It should work for you:)

Plus it's trick as s**t & If you make it nice, It will compliment all the other trick stuff on that motor. Heres a cut a paste of the procedure:

"Spent my Saturday making a cowl air cleaner. Something I always wanted to do and never did. Got the idea from some old posts on here using a 16 in. aluminum cake pan. Turned out real nice, Lots of measuring and trimming, but worth the effort. Total cost about 55 bucs. Got the cake pan online, I got the 1 in. bulb seal from McMaster Carr. Off set base from Summit, but had to cut the base and use pieces of of it. the offset was 1 1/2 in. and I only needed a 1 1/8 offset. To find the right amount of offset I cut a piece of cardboard in a circle 15 1/2 in. the size of the hole in the hood and another piece at 16 in. the size of the cake pan, Centered them and glued them together (mark the exact center with a sharpie). Then I put the cardboard in the hole in the hood, 15 1/2 in the hole in the hood and the 16 in. hold it from falling through, and is the same size as the cake pan, mine fit nice and tight, you may have to use some tape to hold it on the hood. Then I took some threaded stock (5/16 in my case but may be 1/4 for other carbs) filed a point on it, cut it to the right height Screwed it in the carb so it just poked a hole in the cardboard when I closed the hood. Then you just take the cardboard out of the hood and drop it in the 16 in. cake pan, drill the offset hole in the pan and then you have the exact center of the offset use that hole as a guide for your base center. The actual height and angle of the pan will be different for each car, depending on carb, intake, motor mounts, carb spacers, ect. Once the base was made it is really trial and error until I trimmed enough off so the hood will close completely, then I used clay to measure how far down from the hood the base was. Then I kept trimming until I had 3/4 of an inch clearance between the cake pan and the bottom of the hood when closed, that way the 1 in. bulb seal would have a 1/4 of an inch crush against the hood and 3/4 of an inch for the torque and movement of the engine when your getting on it."

cowl1.jpgcowl2.jpgcowl3.jpgcowl4.jpg

 
that camaro engine kicks ass
X2..Have you seen my 71? I posted a pic somewhere on here to show the wheels..In the paint shop now supposed to be back may 1st..or you can see it here www.saturdaymorninggarage.com...
Looks great. Man I can't wait to get back to the states that way I can start doing some serious work to both my cars.

 
the problem is the whole thing is to high left right front and back. the hood will close no problem without the ram air cleaner on it. so did not go down to day and look it over again, will do it the first of the week. I dont have to run the ram air bet really wanted to. so with that said not going to let it hold me up at this point i will buy a low profile K&N and tackle it later on. Its not going anywhere.
Roy..I feel your pain:dodgy: I went through the same thing on my 71 Camaro..when I installed the cowl induction hood..Here's how I solved the problem..Not my Idea so I can't take credit. But It should work for you:)

Plus it's trick as s**t & If you make it nice, It will compliment all the other trick stuff on that motor. Heres a cut a paste of the procedure:

"Spent my Saturday making a cowl air cleaner. Something I always wanted to do and never did. Got the idea from some old posts on here using a 16 in. aluminum cake pan. Turned out real nice, Lots of measuring and trimming, but worth the effort. Total cost about 55 bucs. Got the cake pan online, I got the 1 in. bulb seal from McMaster Carr. Off set base from Summit, but had to cut the base and use pieces of of it. the offset was 1 1/2 in. and I only needed a 1 1/8 offset. To find the right amount of offset I cut a piece of cardboard in a circle 15 1/2 in. the size of the hole in the hood and another piece at 16 in. the size of the cake pan, Centered them and glued them together (mark the exact center with a sharpie). Then I put the cardboard in the hole in the hood, 15 1/2 in the hole in the hood and the 16 in. hold it from falling through, and is the same size as the cake pan, mine fit nice and tight, you may have to use some tape to hold it on the hood. Then I took some threaded stock (5/16 in my case but may be 1/4 for other carbs) filed a point on it, cut it to the right height Screwed it in the carb so it just poked a hole in the cardboard when I closed the hood. Then you just take the cardboard out of the hood and drop it in the 16 in. cake pan, drill the offset hole in the pan and then you have the exact center of the offset use that hole as a guide for your base center. The actual height and angle of the pan will be different for each car, depending on carb, intake, motor mounts, carb spacers, ect. Once the base was made it is really trial and error until I trimmed enough off so the hood will close completely, then I used clay to measure how far down from the hood the base was. Then I kept trimming until I had 3/4 of an inch clearance between the cake pan and the bottom of the hood when closed, that way the 1 in. bulb seal would have a 1/4 of an inch crush against the hood and 3/4 of an inch for the torque and movement of the engine when your getting on it."
Sounds like a viable option, thanks I'm gonna give it another look maybe on Tuesday being Monday is Valentines day and if I spend it at the garage my GF may dis own me. But already have dinner reservation made and paid for so my as well enjoy them. Thanks for everyones input on this. its by no means a show stopper though:D

 
THis might sound like a stupid suggestion....

I remembered on a friends Mustang we elongated the the holes of the engine mounts....we managed to drop the engine 1/2 inch so it sat lower and he was able to close his hood. Was a lot of screwing around with a file ( this was the early 80's).

 
Q, that is a really cool option.

Measure the opening in the hood plenum, it's probably bigger than 16"

Here's an 18" http://www.amazon.com/Parrish-Magic-Line-Round-Aluminum/dp/B001E1TDAC
Jeff,

It works really well..Just time consuming to do it right. I can't get to my camaro their in the middle of sanding the first coat of primer & getting ready to shoot the next coat..otherwise I would snap some shots.

Scott

 
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