My engine build thread (NEW PICTURES)

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
headers are now torqued down, my exhaust is 2 clamps away from being installed, transmission has fluid in it now. 2 clamps, a clutch adjustment, and a retainer for the speedo cable and I should be able to stay out from under the car mostly from here on out.

 
I am heading out momentarily to pick up my engine block from the Machinist. My heads will be ready later this week.

Tonight I will prep my work area and begin checking clearances etc.

I've been gathering parts for a while now and have almost everything.

I'll try and take some pictures as I go, but that really isn't my strong suit.

A quick summary of the build:

CC 4V Iron heads with 1 piece stainless valves, guide plates and 7/16 adjustable studs. These were on my engine before but have been gone thru.

I'll be reusing my Performance Distributors DUI/HEI unit for the time being with their Live Wires. I think I can run a better set up, but for break in, this makes more sense.

I have either a Torker or a Weiand Accelerator intake to choose from as well as a Holley 4150 700CFM and an 850 CFM-I'm planning to go back to the 700 for initial break in.

Milodon high volume water pump (aluminum)

What's new

351 Cleveland block bored .030 over to clean up prior wear

a 393 Forged Crank from MME internally balanced

Scat H beam rods

Forged 11:1 flat top pistons with file to fit moly rings

King HP rod and main bearings

Todd Meyer cam bearings for restricted oiling

Lunati solid roller cam with .641 lift , matching lifters, pushrods and springs

ARP main and head studs

ARP oil pump drive shaft

Harlan Sharp Roller rockers

9 quart milodon pan and matching pick up

Melling oil pump

Full felpro gasket set

Harlan Sharp Stud girdle (Waiting upon at this time)

The engine compartment is clean with only a drop of touch up painting to do under the Master cylinder and along the firewall.

I used Dyno 2000 to get an estimate for this build and it is estimating peak HP at 6500 rpm as being 615- I expect it to be lower at perhaps 550. The torque estimates were also very high, but again I think the program is better at selling parts than predicting power levels. Once it is all done, I hope to have an engine dyno available to do my break in, tuning and testing.
What octane fuel will you require

 
Good question-I'll let you know when I figure it out. I have 110 available about 4 miles from my house, but I think I'll be able to get by with premium and 2-3 gallons of the 110. The engine is so overbuilt for my driving that if I set very conservative timing and give up a few horses, I'll still have more than I ever need.

Today I reattached the AC line, swapped the carb studs, installed the 1" phenolic spacer and gaskets and bent up some stainless steel tubing for a fuel line. Torch, vice and wrenches worked great, no kinks at all.

I made a nifty tool for priming the fuel system out of some fuel line and an air gun , by inserting the tip of the nozzle into a small cut and blowing through a piece of vacuum line into a vented gas can.

Before trying it I stuck the lines onto my vacuum gauge and it pulled 10PSI of vacuum. The draw through the line got the fuel flowing in about 3 seconds. I think this may fall under the "Do not try this at home designation as vaporizing gas can be hazardous."

Battery is installed, and I temporarily hooked it up to verify that my wiring connections were right (I was fairly certain of all of them)

Slowly approaching the first start attempt. I need about 2-3 hours to finish a few minor details and run through the car from back to front, bottom to top to just make sure it is all done and done correctly. Mom's visiting and if she goes home tomorrow, I may try and wrap it up tomorrow night. I need to renew my tags, swap my hood hinges and reinstall my hood before a test drive.

I have a mix of trepidation and excitement that is hard to describe.

 
Well she started as soon as I had power! I initially had the fuel pump plumbed backwards, but after swapping the lines she roared back to life.

Still playing with the timing as all in, with the vacuum advance is sitting at 40 degrees and she wants to idle a little too rough if I set it much lower.

I also think I am going to need larger diameter fuel line as it is sucking the rubber hose from the pump to shock tower section, into partially collapsing.

It will take a little more tuning, but I am happy.

I am trying to upload video to facebook so I can link here. So check back later tonight

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10203317149079140&set=vb.1522803923&type=3&theater
 
Last edited by a moderator:
AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!! Congrats man!!! That has to be the best feeling hearing the motor roar to life for the first time!! For your fuel line you may want to plumb a stainless braided line from the hard line to pump to the carb so you don't have to worry about the rubber line collapsing. I had the same problem on one of my motors before.

Good job! now get it out on the street and light em up!!!!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
:banana: Congrats Jeff , I know you've been waiting a long time for this ! :D

 
Braided line is on today's shopping list. Along with a new belt for the AC and a new positive battery cable.

I'd like to upgrade the alternator to a 3G and eliminate some excess wiring. My AC wiring needs to be rerouted as well and I am also thinking of removing the unused wires from the factory harness. But all these have to wait til my time opens up a bit.

 
I still need to run down a few minor things like the fuel line and get it properly tuned, I have been advised of a 74 year old gentleman locally that is a wiz with distributor and carb tuning and may let him assist me with that portion of the final tuning.

Can folks here see the video without being on facebook?

 
Thanks all. I am happy with it.

The tuning isn't for more power at this point it is for longevity-I don't want it leaning out and burning a valve or worse because I got in a hurry or went cheap at the last minute. Truthfully I don't know what my transmission can handle. I think as long as I am on street tires I'll be fine.

Yes I want to go out and test drive it right away, but I also want to get it as right as I can, even when I might need a little outside help to ensure that the work and money was spent rather than wasted.

I'm still working on an air cleaner solution as the HEI and the 1" spacer both present challenges to making a Ram air set up that works.



Great job Jeff. Yes, video comes across great. I'm sure black powder couldn't blow the smile off your face. ::goodjob::
As a competitive shooter who favors Black Powder for the last 15 years, I think I have enough black powder to remove a smile-or a face!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well, I figured an update was in order. During the initial startup, we had trouble with the vacuum advance and getting total timing at 3000 rpm to stay within a reasonable range.

I pulled the carb and distributorTueday night and dropped it off the next morning with a local drag racer named Jimmy Bridges who has a full shop with a sun distributor machine, mill, flow bench etc at his house. He looked over the spec sheet and is going to recurve the distributor to meet my needs and make a few modifications to the carburetor and plans to have them back to me Friday afternoon. I've also picked up some stainless braided fuel line as my line was collapsing and restricting fuel flow. I MIGHT take care of that tonight-then again, I may sit on my ass, watch TV and have a few drinks.

 
Back
Top