My Next Project (V Code 71 Roadrunner)

[Jeff73Mach1]

Wow! That looks awesome.

 

[jbojo]

Thx Jeff!

The wiper arms are done now and they came out really nice.  Here are how they look now.

 

[jbojo]

After a 6 month wait I finally got the rear header panel for the car.  I decided that the old one is just too rusted to do a good repair.  The new piece looks like a really good replacement piece.   I also attached a pic of the rusted part on the car to show what I am dealing with and there are 6 sections that are like this. 

On a side note I am getting the rotisserie now and a body cart to make it easier to work on the car.  Also looking for a place to put up a shop, working in a single stall is pretty tough and I am running out of space.  Planning to try to put up a 30 X 50 shop with 4 stalls, one being for a lift.  Any way here are a few pics of the part.

 

[Luke]

Still a very cool thread. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build

 

[jbojo]

Well I am finally getting back to this project after a long hiatus.  Been collecting parts and found a place that repops all of the harnesses so I now have a complete set for the car.  These use the correct wire colors and connectors so if I can figure out where everything goes all the electrical circuits should all work properly.  Also found the NOS headlight and variable speed wiper switches so I went ahead and got those while I could.  I found out if you wait when you go back to get them they are sold and you spend weeks trying to find the right parts again.  I have the complete parts catalog for the car so I have the Mopar part numbers used in 71 and I try to get the exact part that was on the car.  Using this process I have found many incorrect parts and so far l've been able to locate all the correct ones.  This is a lot of work but I wanted to see what everyone goes through when restoring their cars like they did when coming off the assembly line and this will be my attempt to do the same.

The PO also hacked the Radiator support when they tried to run a line into the engine compartment.  Instead of drilling a hole it looks like they used a hack saw and a screwdriver or pliers to pry the metal apart.  Anyway I was able to repair that and then started repairing the rear frame rail.  When the PO drove the car into a ditch they attached a hook and chain to a hole in the rail and pulled the car out.  That hook acted like a can opener and ripped about 10 inch long slice in the rail.  I'll upload a pic of the rail next time.

Some pics of the radiator support repair and parts I found.  The harnesses were made by M&H Electric Fabricators and the one shown is the Dash Harness.

 

[73pony]

Nice work. Can't wait to see it finished.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I see you got the AMD panel. They seem to be about the best at the panels and are in my opinion the best on doing the replacement work. They do spot welding just like factory so you cannot tell they are replacements as easily as seeing all the plug MIG or TIG welds. They have very expensive spot welding equipment with the necessary controllers to guarantee a good weld.

My friend that does restorations is taking them a 67 Camaro that is a typical one, yes they rust worse than a Mustang, lol. They are going to replace the radiator support, both front fenders, hood, roof, windshield frame, doors, quarters, tail light panel, trunk and filler. Of course the entire floor from firewall to tail lights is also going in. The only thing that will stay factory is the cowl piece that has the VIN# so it will stay a 67 and not a kit car. They do it all in less than 30 days and have all the fixtures for most cars.

I have ask him to let me know when he takes the car down and I want to go visit.

He took a chevy truck to Grave Robbers and they replaced a bunch of metal on it. The shop that worked on the truck before got it all out of square and the doors would not fit. They had to cut the cab corners back out and add material to get back in shape and replaced the floors, rockers, bed sides etc, etc. They do not have the spot welders that AMD has so that is a mark against them.

You can pretty much build a car now days. What sucks is that the Mustang bodies you can buy have to be titled as a kit car you cannot swap a VIN over so they suck at that. Your keep your VIN with AMD.

Here is link to their shop in Georgia. http://amdinstallation.com/

You get a price up front not a running clock to pay all the shop time they want to use.

 

[jbojo]

I see you got the AMD panel. They seem to be about the best at the panels and are in my opinion the best on doing the replacement work. They do spot welding just like factory so you cannot tell they are replacements as easily as seeing all the plug MIG or TIG welds. They have very expensive spot welding equipment with the necessary controllers to guarantee a good weld.

My friend that does restorations is taking them a 67 Camaro that is a typical one, yes they rust worse than a Mustang, lol. They are going to replace the radiator support, both front fenders, hood, roof, windshield frame, doors, quarters, tail light panel, trunk and filler. Of course the entire floor from firewall to tail lights is also going in. The only thing that will stay factory is the cowl piece that has the VIN# so it will stay a 67 and not a kit car. They do it all in less than 30 days and have all the fixtures for most cars.

I have ask him to let me know when he takes the car down and I want to go visit.

He took a chevy truck to Grave Robbers and they replaced a bunch of metal on it. The shop that worked on the truck before got it all out of square and the doors would not fit. They had to cut the cab corners back out and add material to get back in shape and replaced the floors, rockers, bed sides etc, etc. They do not have the spot welders that AMD has so that is a mark against them.

You can pretty much build a car now days. What sucks is that the Mustang bodies you can buy have to be titled as a kit car you cannot swap a VIN over so they suck at that. Your keep your VIN with AMD.

Here is link to their shop in Georgia. http://amdinstallation.com/

You get a price up front not a running clock to pay all the shop time they want to use.

AMD is definitely reasonable on parts and their installation costs.  Only problem for me is that I live on the west coast and they are in Georgia so to get them to do the work I would have to get the car to them and bring it back when they are done.  I am currently fixing all the body work that I can and then I am going to have a body shop do that header replacement. 

Working on the dent on the rear passenger wheel well today.  I will post some pictures of that work tomorrow.

 

[jbojo]

Been a while since I have posted anything on this build because of the heat and also looking for a shop to do my projects in.  Getting close to finalizing the shop plans but its still a ways off before I can get to use it. 

Any way the instrument cluster is done.  The speedometer had a bad bearing for the needle so that was fixed and speedo calibrated along with all the gauges.  Also got the tach converted to a modern board so it will work with CD boxes, points or electronic ignitions.  This was similar to what I did with the mustang.  Lastly had the voltage regulator converted to electronic instead of the old mechanical one.

Some before and after pics;

Before

 

[jbojo]

Just a quick update on what I've been up to and with this RR project.  I haven't worked on it for the last 7 months as I got tired with the limited space that I have and decided to get a new place.  Been working on plans for a home and a 1600 sq ft (40 x 40) shop and we are starting construction now.  My shop will have a 2 post lift and plenty of room for my projects and I should be starting up full time in about 3 months again.  Footings for the lift will be 13000 lbs and half of the shop will have a vaulted ceiling for additional clearance for the lift.  In the meantime I am going to work on some smaller items on the car and restoring the air grabber plenum is what I'll be working on and will be posting pictures soon.  Below is what my shop will look like.





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[jbojo]

Here are some before pics of the Air Grabber assembly.  This had been stored in the trunk of the car for about 25 yrs.

 

[jbojo]

There were 3 stress cracks that needed some fiberglass work.  Attaching the finished pics of the repair.  Because of the vibration of the motor and this resting on top of it stress cracks are common for this assembly.  Also Mopar injected the color in the Resin when the part was manufactured so this part will need to be sprayed with the final color.  Attached pics of the repaired stress area fixes.  Also since many here aren't Mopar fans I attached a pic of the 440 -6 air cleaner assembly and a pic of the assembly attached to the hood.  A short vid of what one looks like when operated is also attached, its similar to the RAM air system on our cars with the flapper doors on the NASA hoods except here the scoop raises from the hood.

 

[jbojo]

The air grabber fiberglass box is done and it looks pretty good.  I have all the pieces so I will start assembling the box next.  Attaching 1 before and a few after shots.

 

[jbojo]

Found an original steering wheel and a NOS center emblem.  Should go well with the car.

 

[Hemikiller]

You might find my friend Ralph's page fairly interesting. He's hooked up pretty deep with the Mopar scene, so drop him a line if you need parts. I swear he literally knows everyone.

http://ralphsrapidtransit.com/

 

[jbojo]

You might find my friend Ralph's page fairly interesting. He's hooked up pretty deep with the Mopar scene, so drop him a line if you need parts. I swear he literally knows everyone.

http://ralphsrapidtransit.com/

Thx for the link, it's a great source for info.

 

[jbojo]

Just an update on my shop.  We broke ground and getting the foundation started.  This is where I'll be completing my car projects in the future

 

[jbojo]

Weather slowed down the shop but we have the foundation done now.  Next up is the slab.

 

[jbojo]

Floor is ready for pouring on Friday.  Tomorrow the 2 footings for the lift needs to be inspected by the building department before the slab is poured.  Floor will be sloped slightly downward towards the front with the difference from front to back of 3 inches over 39 feet.

 

[DK73]

Wow that is so awesome [emoji111]️[emoji3][emoji41][emoji106]

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